In reply to Roberttaylor:
Hi Robert,
I went up the west buttress route in May/June this year with a couple of mates. We'd hoped to do the upper west rib but weather was closing in for that. Good trip up the buttress though. Incidentally, Tom (TRip) gave me some really useful tips over the email-cheers again Tom.
I bought a lot of gear second hand and have sold it on again (baby on the way so nothing big for a few years). We used a company called "Exposure Alaska" to help organise pickup from anchorage and transport via flight at talkeetna, plus expedition food. Id recommend them: It was worth it for us as one mate's flight was delayed and without their help we would have missed our weather window with no dramatic string Orchestra moment on top...
Bit cheaper if you do it without and food is easy enough to organise in Anchorage supermarkets. I reckon it could be done for about 2.5k without buying gear.
Saw some pretty ill people up near the top. Some of whom were in guided groups. Some guided groups seemed ace, some seemed to have taken some people up with errm pretty rapid ascent profiles. Like the dude we met in a group on the summit ridge who was ataxic with HACE...guide had forgotten meds so we gave them some Dexamethasone and Acetazolamide, he got down to 17K ok. Not trying to be critical of guides as they really are experts in their field, shit happens in the mountains, but I would say its worth choosing a company carefully. We met the guides on "Mountain Trip" quite a few times on the hill: really nice totally down to earth guys, sensible ascent profile etc etc.
We had great weather for most of the trip so had some spare time in Alaska. Taking the train up to Denali National Park is really worthwhile for some wild camping: saw some grizzly, moose etc. Killer whale watching in Seward just south of Anchorage is also worthwhile.
My biggest tip is to fly with TAT. They have more planes than anyone and seemed to get people into and off the glacier quicker than the other companies.
hope that helps
Jon