/ PRODUCT NEWS: Beal Gully 7.3mm UNICORE - Available October 2013

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Beal Gully 7.3mm UNICORE - Available October 2013, 4 kbWeighing in at a mere 36 g/m, the Gully 7.3 is the lightest double rope on the market. It is also certified as a twin rope. Its extremely low impact force (7.2kN as a double rope) makes it the ideal companion for ice and alpine climbing as well as for mountain climbing in the most demanding of terrains. Thanks to the Golden Dry impregnation, the rope absorbs virtually no wetness and wear is reduced to a minimum. Unicore technology also prevents any shift of the sheath when the rope is cut or broken. The combination of these two technologies guarantees a rope with outstanding handling properties and great safety for ambitious climbers.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/news.php?id=5705
Martin Bennett - on 14 Aug 2013
In reply to UKC Gear:

Please can an informed respondent assure me that by "double" rope they mean what old boys like me know as "half" rope i.e. a pair of ropes that can be clipped individually into alternate runners?

This is implied by the inclusion of "also certified as a twin rope" but I want to be sure. If it is I'll be in the market for them when available.
woody0606 on 14 Aug 2013
In reply to Martin Bennett: Double and Half seem to be used interchangeably nowadays, so I can't imagine it would mean anything else.
nufkin - on 14 Aug 2013
In reply to woody0606:

> Double and Half seem to be used interchangeably nowadays, so I can't imagine it would mean anything else

Yes, seconded - Double=Half=Double=etc. Clipped alternately L&R (more or less).
As Twins, they'd be tested clipped together to the same piece of gear.

7.3mm is amazing - and I thought my 8mm Mammuts were thin
Edvin m on 19 Aug 2013
In reply to UKC Gear: Anybody seen any info about the number of UIAA falls as either half or twin?
masa-alpin - on 21 Aug 2013
In reply to UKC Gear: Is there any belay device suitable for these thin ropes? Masa
Coel Hellier - on 21 Aug 2013
In reply to masa-alpin:

> Is there any belay device suitable for these thin ropes?

The Edelrid micro Jul is specced for ropes 6.9 mm to 8.5 mm.

http://www.edelrid.de/en/sports/products/hardware/micro-jul.html

(Wow, 6.9 !!! Would one feel safe leading on a 6.9 ?)
dustyrat - on 23 Aug 2013
In reply to UKC Gear:
My partner tried prussiking on the Mammut Pheonix 8mms once, and it was a nightmare, he's not a big lad and there was a huge amount of stretch.
Wonder if the Beal Unicore feature will reduce the stretch, if you ever needed to escape / prussik?
jimtitt - on 23 Aug 2013
In reply to UKC Gear:
If a double rope is meant a half rope as we all understand it (and the term used by Beal themselves, the UIAA et al) then 7.2kN isnīt extremely low, itīs appallingly high. Aroung the 5-5.5kN mark is about right for a half rope and low 7īs for a twin rope these days.
Lyon Equipment Ltd on 28 Aug 2013
In reply to UKC Gear:
Martin Bennett > Yep. Double = Half.
Neil G has an article which might help over on http://www.lyon.co.uk/outdoor/lyon-support/advice-knowledge/99-rope-selection

The Gully has been tested/rated as a Double/Half AND as a Twin rope. (Beal's Joker is similarly also rated for double/half and twin use but is also rated as a single rope)

Beal Gully as a double/half:

UIAA Impact Force: 4.9 - 5.10kN
Beal Guaranteed Impact Force: 5.2kN
UIAA Number Of Falls: 6-7

Beal Gully as a Twin:

UIAA Impact Force: 7.9 - 8kN
Beal Guaranteed Impact Force: 7.9kN
UIAA Number Of Falls: 13-15

Hope this helps.
C
Toerag - on 28 Aug 2013
In reply to UKC Gear: I'd be wanting to know how well a rope that thin does with sharp edge tests.....and how easy it is to undo knots in it once loaded!
Paul B - on 29 Aug 2013
In reply to UKC Gear: I recently bought a 7.5mm half rope so that I could use it as a tag with a single or as part of a set with another half.

Whilst being so thin its really light, the amount it stretches under load is high and I really wouldn't want to take a big fall with anything ledge-like in range.

That, and seeing a 7.5mm running over any kind of rough edge is far from heart-warming.
anthonyh - on 25 Sep 2013
In reply to Lyon Outdoor - CB:
Hello any idea what the RRP will be for a gully

Anthony

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