/ PRODUCT NEWS: Beal Gully 7.3mm UNICORE - Available October 2013
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/news.php?id=5705
Please can an informed respondent assure me that by "double" rope they mean what old boys like me know as "half" rope i.e. a pair of ropes that can be clipped individually into alternate runners?
This is implied by the inclusion of "also certified as a twin rope" but I want to be sure. If it is I'll be in the market for them when available.
Yes, seconded - Double=Half=Double=etc. Clipped alternately L&R (more or less).
As Twins, they'd be tested clipped together to the same piece of gear.
7.3mm is amazing - and I thought my 8mm Mammuts were thin
The Edelrid micro Jul is specced for ropes 6.9 mm to 8.5 mm.
(Wow, 6.9 !!! Would one feel safe leading on a 6.9 ?)
My partner tried prussiking on the Mammut Pheonix 8mms once, and it was a nightmare, he's not a big lad and there was a huge amount of stretch.
Wonder if the Beal Unicore feature will reduce the stretch, if you ever needed to escape / prussik?
If a double rope is meant a half rope as we all understand it (and the term used by Beal themselves, the UIAA et al) then 7.2kN isnīt extremely low, itīs appallingly high. Aroung the 5-5.5kN mark is about right for a half rope and low 7īs for a twin rope these days.
Martin Bennett > Yep. Double = Half.
Neil G has an article which might help over on http://www.lyon.co.uk/outdoor/lyon-support/advice-knowledge/99-rope-selection
The Gully has been tested/rated as a Double/Half AND as a Twin rope. (Beal's Joker is similarly also rated for double/half and twin use but is also rated as a single rope)
Beal Gully as a double/half:
UIAA Impact Force: 4.9 - 5.10kN
Beal Guaranteed Impact Force: 5.2kN
UIAA Number Of Falls: 6-7
Beal Gully as a Twin:
UIAA Impact Force: 7.9 - 8kN
Beal Guaranteed Impact Force: 7.9kN
UIAA Number Of Falls: 13-15
Hope this helps.
Whilst being so thin its really light, the amount it stretches under load is high and I really wouldn't want to take a big fall with anything ledge-like in range.
That, and seeing a 7.5mm running over any kind of rough edge is far from heart-warming.
Hello any idea what the RRP will be for a gully
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