UKC Forums - rope length for mittelligi& s ridge of eiger

rope length for mittelligi& s ridge of eiger

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woodsy 19 Aug 2013

Wondered if anyone knew what length of rope needed for the above- in particular the abseil. On s ridge.
Thanks
Woodsy

alexwuk 20 Aug 2013

In reply to woodsy:
You'll need a 50m. There are multiple 20+m abseils on the S Ridge (one was actually slightly more than 25m but it's manageable).

OP woodsy 20 Aug 2013

In reply to alexwuk:
Thanks
Wondered if 60m would be needed.
Woodsy

chris bedford 20 Aug 2013

In reply to woodsy:

> (In reply to alexwuk)
> Wondered if 60m would be needed.

As alexwuk said, 50m is fine, but if you only have a 60m that would be fine too. I think we downclimbed most of the S.ridge, but abseiled one step (bolted belay). Getting to the Mittellegi hut we found to be the most awkward part of the whole route....

alexwuk 20 Aug 2013

In reply to woodsy:
If you have 60m and not 50m, that'll be fine. If you have both to hand, I would take the 50m for the obvious weight/bulk/rope management issues.

Conditions on the ridge are excellent. On Sunday it took us 7 hours to the Monchjoch, and there were two ropes that did it quicker: both did the traverse in 5.5hrs [2.5 up, 3 down]. Don't forget advance reservations in the hut are mandatory. The hardest free climbing is indeed the first pitch off the glacier to the hut, but it's not too bad - maybe one pitch of 4c.