/ Something Better Change- Similar routes?

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Malt_Loaf - on 21 Aug 2013
Hi,

Recently lead Something Better Change (E2 5b) at The Roaches and absolutely loved the delicate/technical slab climbing and actually quite liked the boldness, I didn't use any of the cheats e.g the big crack on the left- I used a low side runner so that probably lowered the grade to E1 perhaps HVS but would be happy to do it without in hindsight.

Any recommendations for similar routes? The type of climbing really suited me, I felt comfortable and was able to climb harder. I thought it was more 5a than 5b tbh so any recommendations for delicate/technical slab climbs around 5a/5b...

Ta!
Duncan Bourne - on 21 Aug 2013
In reply to Malt_Loaf:
Elergy E2 5b Roaches
Great Slab E2 5b Froggatt
Three Pebble Slab (grade withheld to safe thread degenerating into argument)
Third Degree Burn E2 5b Roaches skyline
Chalked up E1 5a Yarncliffe
On the limestone
Bicycle repair man E1 5b Staden quarry (depending on access)
Pocket Symphony E1 4c, 5b Beeston Tor
Dave 88 - on 21 Aug 2013
In reply to Malt_Loaf:

Coconut Ice at Stanage- E2 5b this really scared me, it was great!
Browns Eliminate at Froggatt- E1 5a? Can't remember, good though. Almost came off which wouldn't have been much fun!
maisie on 21 Aug 2013
In reply to Malt_Loaf:

Seconded with Elegy - the bold bit of slab is about 5a/b and is great. Further along, there's also Smear Test (6a) and Chalkstorm (5c) to progress onto.

Sundowner at Froggatt (E2 5b), just right of Sunset Slab - which is probably bolder than all of the above (!).

If you're over east, drop in at Black Rocks and get on the Railway Slab boulder - probably a polished horror these days, but was good value as a 15 foot 5c slab, which seemed to get harder with every move. With a mat, definitely a good option.
Malt_Loaf - on 21 Aug 2013
In reply to Malt_Loaf: Thanks Folks!

Much appreciated; loads to have a look at there! SBC was only 10m so it felt a little less serious, so I'd definitely start on 5a if they were considerably longer just so the head is there.

Definitely my kind of climbing; shame there isn't much like it in N.Wales/Edinburgh area!

Malt_Loaf - on 21 Aug 2013
In reply to Duncan Bourne: Thanks Duncan,

Done TPS- you're right, let's not mention the grade! Fabulous route though! Also done chalked up- thought it was nails; mind you, it was dirty!

Ta.
Dave 88 - on 21 Aug 2013
In reply to Malt_Loaf:

If you're looking for stuff in north Wales, a lot of slate is slabby, delicate and run-out.
Malt_Loaf - on 21 Aug 2013
In reply to Dave 88: Yeah! I've done a lot on the Slate, love the stuff! (must get around to adding my paper based log onto here)!
BenTiffin - on 21 Aug 2013
In reply to Dave 88: Brown's Eliminate at E2 5b.

Great Slab at Froggatt is similar style but with no gear at all at E3 5b.
Malt_Loaf - on 21 Aug 2013
In reply to BenTiffin: Brown's Eliminate looks amazing; just seems so intimidating!!
Dave 88 - on 21 Aug 2013
In reply to Malt_Loaf:

As you can probably see from the photos, you're fine on the ledge low down, from there you can get a good look at everything and decide if you want to go for it. I backed off trying to solo it on many occasions. When I finally lead it I was glad I never soloed it!
Ann S on 21 Aug 2013
In reply to Malt_Loaf:

These suggestions are in the Lakes

Consider visiting Sergeant Crag slabs in Borrowdale area for longer routes. Start with the 3 HVS climbs and then checkout Aphasia. E2 5b -45 meters with a bolt station at top. I've not done it (though I enjoyed the HVS's) but the guide book description should suit you. "one of the best slab pitches in the Lakes. A fine sustained pitch with reasonable protection."

Shorter with very small not inspiring gear is Glass Slipper at Black crag Wrynose pass. E2 5b 16 meters though some say it is soft touch. It felt more like 5a when I seconded it. Lovely ripples for fingers and feet.
Duncan Bourne - on 21 Aug 2013
In reply to Malt_Loaf:
Sorry about the almost sandbag, as someone pointed out Great Slab is E3 and no gear.
Pocket Symphony on Beeston though is well worth a look and reasonably well protected (if you take your "broddler" for threading the threads)
Malt_Loaf - on 21 Aug 2013
In reply to Ann S: Could be keen on a trip to Sergeant Crag Slabs at some point if you'd be keen Ann. I'll let you know once I'm settle in Edinburgh..

Ta.
Ann S on 21 Aug 2013
In reply to Malt_Loaf:

Get in touch when you're free. Just don't come back with a Morningside accent!!
lowersharpnose - on 21 Aug 2013
In reply to Malt_Loaf:

Brown's Eliminate is not as hard as it looks. IIRC, a friend did it as his first HVS. It is a great route.
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DubyaJamesDubya - on 22 Aug 2013
In reply to Malt_Loaf:

San Melas

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