/ Sport Climbing near Leeds

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poigol5043 - on 21 Aug 2013
Hi, I live in Leeds and have no trad gear, no nuts or cams, but i have the gear to do sport.

I'm looking to go climbing somewhere at the weekend but the nearest sport climbing places i can find are near settle an hour or more away...

Any advice on places closer to Leeds??

If this is in the wrong place then... sorry??

Ben Cowans
meehaja - on 22 Aug 2013
plenty of average to poor top roping to be had in Leeds. Mostly boulder'able rocks Post hill being my favourite... don't know of any dedicated sport routes I'm afraid
Mark F - on 22 Aug 2013
In reply to poigol5043:
The rock in the immediate vicinity of Leeds is gritstone so you won't find any sport climbing there. Trollers Gill is the nearest I can think of, close to Appletreewick (find Parcevall Hall on the O/S map - it's a short walk from there).

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1336
jkarran - on 22 Aug 2013
In reply to poigol5043:

Leeds wall if it must be bolts and local.

If you can travel then Trollers is your closest I think, the rest of the Dales limestone isn't much further. Pick carefully if you're looking for easier stuff, there's a lot of rubbish.

Closer to Leeds there's a *lot* of good grit bouldering.
jk
poigol5043 - on 22 Aug 2013
In reply to poigol5043: Thanks for the advice. I've decided to bite the bullet and take the hour and a half journey to gigglsewick south. Is there somewhere to find advice on how to set up a top rope??
Kid Spatula - on 22 Aug 2013
In reply to poigol5043:

I wouldn't go to Giggleswick South if you only want to top rope. Getting to the top would require leading or a long walk through brambles can crappy rock.

If you can lead, you can tension/climb across to the next lower off if need be.
jkarran - on 22 Aug 2013
In reply to poigol5043:

> Is there somewhere to find advice on how to set up a top rope??

No offence intended but how are you planning to get the rope up to the chains if you need advice on how to top-rope?

Most outdoor sport routes finish on the wall somewhere below the top. If you want to top-rope you generally have to lead or clipstick your way up first to get the rope into the belay*. The alternative is often a long walk and an abseil from anchors that may or may not be in-situ.

* You're best to top-rope off your own locking crab clipped to the belay so as not to wear the fixed gear. Generally you also need to know how to safely re-thread a belay to get your kit down at the end of the day.

If you're really short on kit and skills then Brimham is a better venue, lots of opportunity for top-roping from simple tree and block belays. If you prefer limestone then Twistleton scar has limestone pavement at the top. From memory there are lots of thread/block belay options requiring very little kit (a couple of slings) to access many of the routes.

jk
poigol5043 - on 22 Aug 2013
In reply to jkarran: I was assuming i could just hike up to the top of the crag and use some sort of boulder/tree as an anchor.

I wanted to know if there's any specific tips/tricks to tying to anchors??

I already have the experience/gear to lead, second, lower off, get my gear back etc :)
poigol5043 - on 22 Aug 2013
In reply to jkarran:

>From memory there are lots of thread/block belay options requiring very >little kit (a couple of slings) to access many of the routes.


Also, i think the thread/block belay options you talked about are what I'm after.
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jkarran - on 23 Aug 2013
In reply to poigol5043:

> I was assuming i could just hike up to the top of the crag and use some sort of boulder/tree as an anchor.

Not at most of the Yorkshire sport crags you can't, they're often very steep with a lot of loose rock at the top, the routes stop short of the worst rock so the belay chains are in the middle of nowhere.

> I wanted to know if there's any specific tips/tricks to tying to anchors??

There are lots of 'tricks' and quite a few pitfalls. I'm sorry but without knowing what you already know I suggest you go with someone experienced. At the very least read up safe belay rigging from a book before then get comfortable with the techniques in a safe location before hitting the crag.

> I already have the experience/gear to lead, second, lower off, get my gear back etc :)

Cool, do that, it's the easiest option. Can you cope with lower-offs that have rethreadable rings rather than a krab to clip?

> Also, i think the thread/block belay options you talked about are what I'm after.

Brimham is probably the best I can think of for finding a good selection of routes with easy no 'gear' belays that can be rigged with just rope, krabs and a little creativity. It's gritstone though and not bolted.

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