/ NEWS: Move, new 9b/+ by Adam Ondra
After I finished off Iron Curtain, I went straight into this project. Not because it was the easiest one to pick, not because it is the best line in the cave (but would be the...
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68293
.....last day of my trip.....another two or three weeks in Flatanger. Oh well.
Maybe even harder than Change he thinks....
I wanted to prove to myeself that I can climb in the roof and that I have acquired some biceps power in the last years.
Ondra has no biceps power, Dave M has no stamina Steve McClure is always saying that he's weak..there self depreciation and self-depreciation!
I, on the other hand, have little stamina, small biceps power and am weak
Maybe in ten years when Ondra has climbed 10a, he will finally admit to being strong?!
On the other hand he does tend to claim he has a very low level of natural ability and limited strength...
Climbing's funny though because it's so multi-faceted. I have mates who, indoors, nail dynos I can't touch, and storm up overhanging routes I get pumped stupid on, but outside I can burn them off because crimpy wall climbing is what I'm best at. So, relatively, I consider myself short of power, with rubbish stamina. Equally, another mate whom I beat on technique and, most of the time, on strength and power-endurance, consistently leads harder than me on trad because he's more determined and just grits his teeth when I wimp out.
For a long time I thought there was an element of false modesty involved but I think cutting edge climbers are probably more conscious than most about their strengths and weaknesses as they have to plan their lives around their training and climbing. If you're climbing 9b+ and still get burnt off on a campus board or whatever the best test of your biceps is, then I guess maybe you really do think you are fairly crap in the bicep-power department.
I don't think coming across as modest and unassuming does your public profile any harm either though.
the one thing that struck me is that he is so FAST.
That's all I kept thinking, he's so fast and fluid. Its a lesson in how to not get pumped, moving through each move, not hanging around...Properly good. And, as ever with these videos, though it looks steep, it doesn't look that bad (except the bouldery section)... Why do they make it look like a jug-fest!?
What a venue too...
Really enjoyed this video. An interesting, natural and honest commentary by Adam. The rock looks great, the route awesome, and his super-human climbing prowess is a joy to watch.
I'd hate (actually I'd be fascinated) to see what he thinks IS "bad" if he says:
"...it's 45m of pumpy 9a, followed by 10m of really bouldery 9a, which doesn't sound that bad."
> I'd hate (actually I'd be fascinated) to see what he thinks IS "bad" if he says:
> "...it's 45m of pumpy 9a, followed by 10m of really bouldery 9a, which doesn't sound that bad."
45m of pumpy 9b, followed by 10m of really bouldery 9b perhaps
Quite, but what does that physically look like?!
...and please don't say steeper with smaller holds.
>"That's all I kept thinking, he's so fast and fluid."
It's the fluid bit that really struck me. He makes it look like a 6b he's done a gazillion times!
> Quite, but what does that physically look like?!
Ondra's done pumpy 9b's and bouldery 9b's, so it looks like one on top of the other.
It was amazing watching him running up the pumpy 9a and then, pumped, getting stuck into the bouldery 9a. I would never have believed that climbing could have so evolved.
His dedication is a lesson to the rest of us.
Ondra's delays in making the full ascent were primarily due to the little dachshund at 2.37 eating his power bar, chewing quick draws and gnawing the ropes, Ondra had believed that trolls were to blame but the tell tale holes in the ruc-sac gave the little fellow away.
The moral of the ascent is, keep hot dogs away from food laden packs!
Wonderful to watch.
I think a video of him actually bolting it in the first place would be even more impressive! Htf do you do that??
> ...and please don't say steeper with smaller holds.
Ok - it's smaller holds, but steeper.
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