/ NEWS: Move, new 9b/+ by Adam Ondra

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UKC News - on 22 Aug 2013
Adam Ondra on Move, 9b/+, Flatanger, Norway, 4 kbThe other day, Adam Ondra made the first ascent of yet another super hard route in the Hanshelleren at Flatanger, Norway.

After I finished off Iron Curtain, I went straight into this project. Not because it was the easiest one to pick, not because it is the best line in the cave (but would be the...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68293
puppythedog on 22 Aug 2013
In reply to UKC News: He is rather good that chap.
johncoxmysteriously - on 22 Aug 2013
In reply to UKC News:

.....last day of my trip.....another two or three weeks in Flatanger. Oh well.

Maybe even harder than Change he thinks....

jcm
Bulls Crack - on 22 Aug 2013
In reply to UKC News:

I wanted to prove to myeself that I can climb in the roof and that I have acquired some biceps power in the last years.

Ondra has no biceps power, Dave M has no stamina Steve McClure is always saying that he's weak..there self depreciation and self-depreciation!

I, on the other hand, have little stamina, small biceps power and am weak
Dave Foster - on 22 Aug 2013
In reply to Bulls Crack: self deprecation?
AMorris - on 22 Aug 2013
In reply to Bulls Crack: I think, by the anti-logic of Ondra, McClure and McLeod, that makes you stronger than all of them!
James Riley - on 23 Aug 2013
In reply to UKC News:

Hero !

Maybe in ten years when Ondra has climbed 10a, he will finally admit to being strong?!
matt perks - on 23 Aug 2013
In reply to Bulls Crack: I think Dave McLeaod only said he had no stamina in relation to attempting Paciencia recently because... "Iíd done next to no climbing for several weeks with everything that had gone on. A few fingerboard sessions, a couple of TCA sessions, thatís it. I could still one arm a first joint edge. But endurance was nil."

On the other hand he does tend to claim he has a very low level of natural ability and limited strength...

Climbing's funny though because it's so multi-faceted. I have mates who, indoors, nail dynos I can't touch, and storm up overhanging routes I get pumped stupid on, but outside I can burn them off because crimpy wall climbing is what I'm best at. So, relatively, I consider myself short of power, with rubbish stamina. Equally, another mate whom I beat on technique and, most of the time, on strength and power-endurance, consistently leads harder than me on trad because he's more determined and just grits his teeth when I wimp out.

For a long time I thought there was an element of false modesty involved but I think cutting edge climbers are probably more conscious than most about their strengths and weaknesses as they have to plan their lives around their training and climbing. If you're climbing 9b+ and still get burnt off on a campus board or whatever the best test of your biceps is, then I guess maybe you really do think you are fairly crap in the bicep-power department.

I don't think coming across as modest and unassuming does your public profile any harm either though.
Kemics - on 24 Aug 2013
In reply to UKC News:

the one thing that struck me is that he is so FAST.
farmus21 - on 24 Aug 2013
In reply to Kemics:

That's all I kept thinking, he's so fast and fluid. Its a lesson in how to not get pumped, moving through each move, not hanging around...Properly good. And, as ever with these videos, though it looks steep, it doesn't look that bad (except the bouldery section)... Why do they make it look like a jug-fest!?

What a venue too...
TonyM - on 24 Aug 2013
In reply to UKC News:

Really enjoyed this video. An interesting, natural and honest commentary by Adam. The rock looks great, the route awesome, and his super-human climbing prowess is a joy to watch.
Fraser on 24 Aug 2013
In reply to UKC News:

I'd hate (actually I'd be fascinated) to see what he thinks IS "bad" if he says:

"...it's 45m of pumpy 9a, followed by 10m of really bouldery 9a, which doesn't sound that bad."
Robert Durran - on 24 Aug 2013
In reply to Fraser:
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> I'd hate (actually I'd be fascinated) to see what he thinks IS "bad" if he says:
>
> "...it's 45m of pumpy 9a, followed by 10m of really bouldery 9a, which doesn't sound that bad."

45m of pumpy 9b, followed by 10m of really bouldery 9b perhaps



Fraser on 24 Aug 2013
In reply to Robert Durran:

Quite, but what does that physically look like?!
Fraser on 24 Aug 2013
In reply to Fraser:

...and please don't say steeper with smaller holds.
JLS on 24 Aug 2013
In reply to farmus21:

>"That's all I kept thinking, he's so fast and fluid."

It's the fluid bit that really struck me. He makes it look like a 6b he's done a gazillion times!
Robert Durran - on 24 Aug 2013
In reply to Fraser:
> (In reply to Robert Durran)
>
> Quite, but what does that physically look like?!

Ondra's done pumpy 9b's and bouldery 9b's, so it looks like one on top of the other.

Mick Ward - on 24 Aug 2013
In reply to Robert Durran:

It was amazing watching him running up the pumpy 9a and then, pumped, getting stuck into the bouldery 9a. I would never have believed that climbing could have so evolved.

His dedication is a lesson to the rest of us.

Mick
Stephen R Young - on 25 Aug 2013
In reply to Mick Ward:

Ondra's delays in making the full ascent were primarily due to the little dachshund at 2.37 eating his power bar, chewing quick draws and gnawing the ropes, Ondra had believed that trolls were to blame but the tell tale holes in the ruc-sac gave the little fellow away.

The moral of the ascent is, keep hot dogs away from food laden packs!

Wonderful to watch.

Steve
Nic on 18 Sep 2013
In reply to UKC News:


I think a video of him actually bolting it in the first place would be even more impressive! Htf do you do that??
Mike Nolan - on 18 Sep 2013
In reply to Nic: I was impressed at the speed he ascended the rope at the start!
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SteveSBlake - on 18 Sep 2013
In reply to Fraser:
> (In reply to Fraser)
>
> ...and please don't say steeper with smaller holds.

Ok - it's smaller holds, but steeper.

:-)

Steve

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