UKC

What do people use for pedals on their CX bikes - specifically for racing? Do most CX riders want an SPD surrounded by a cage to help to get pushing even before the cleat is clipped in? Or no cage for the lightest weight possible? I'm not going to spend huge amounts, so something like http://www.merlincycles.com/bike-shop/mtb-parts/transmission-gears/pedals-m... for the former or http://www.merlincycles.com/bike-shop/mtb-parts/transmission-gears/pedals-m... for the latter.

From the few "fun" races I've done, I think I've needed to jump on and off lots more than I would on my MTB, so think that cage SPDs are probably the best but wondered what the experts thought?

In reply to TobyA: Given my incompetence, I'm sticking with small flatties for my first CX race next week. I'd be interested to hear how you get on..

In reply to TobyA:

non caged spd pedals.I find them easier to get clipped in to as there is no cage in the way

Nothing technical on true cross so no need for a platform.

only done a few races myself but done plenty of offroad stuff on the cx bike round the lakes,dales and howgills and they have been fine.

In reply to Radioactiveman:

also worth clipping out slightly early then you dont block the slope/hazard etc then you can also get a run up.

change gear for setting off again before you get off. embarassing when you remount and can barely turn the cranks

In reply to lummox:

Actually I did a bunch of the local Helsinki CX races last autumn - I was using those plastic caged Shimanos that I linked, I've had them on my MTB for years. I think that many of the races were on very technical (perhaps too much so?) routes so once you hopped back on again it was sometime hard to clip in before you started having to maneuver the bike again.

But I was commuting on the CX using different pedals, hence swapping around a lot - so was thinking of just going for some cheap ones just for the CX. Normally I have the half spd/half flat shimanos which are great for touring and commuting, but less good for CX races for obvious reasons of needing to get the pedal the right way round to clip.

In reply to Radioactiveman:

I thought I'd hit that problem on my first cx race. I then discovered I'd picked up a fist sized clod of mud and got it wedged between my wheel, brakes and seat stays, halting all motion.

I have m540s on my cx bike, but found clipping in after any mud rather tricky. Though not quite as tricky as getting the bike moving forward in mud - I think I may look at aggressively lugged tubeless tyres at minimal pressures this winter.

In reply to TobyA: I'm not a cyclocrosser so take this with a pinch of salt but I've read that crank brothers egg beaters are the pedal of choice because they are very good for clearing mud. They have a reputation for not being reliable, though. Time atac pedals are also very good for mud clearance and are bomb proof. None of the above have much (or any..) of a platform, though.

In reply to TobyA:

I've raced for a few seasons (at a not very high level) on SPD M520s. Never had any problems other than the occasional 'double kick' to get engaged when it's really muddy.

For my money the resin (or metal) cages are a waste of time, extra weight and somewhere else for mud to gather. Concentrate on refining your entry technique instead. (fnarr).

In reply to TobyA:

Agreeing with those above. My limited experience of caged SPDs revealed a mud-catching tendency that made me want to avoid them. This was just normal MTBing, but I gather CX racing is usually a very muddy affair.

In reply to TobyA:

Hey Toby, congrats on getting into cyclocross. It's my favorite discipline of bike racing, bar none. I did my first race back in 2003 and have gone through a host of different pedals, so I'll give you my take, for what it's worth. For starters, you definitely want SPD type pedals... no flats, and no add-on cages. Cages cause the pedal to flip upside down when your foot's not attached(weight, center of gravity) and the upside down cages get caught in the dirt after dismount (causing problems), and after remount before you've flipped them over (causing big problems, either broken pedal or a wreck). Definitely no cages. As for what brands/models of SPD style pedals:

Crank Brothers Candy: my favorite pedal. Basically an Eggbeater pedal but with a plastic platform to give you a base to push against until you've clipped in. Eggbeater styles shed mud better than any other, and the cleat-clip interface is really easy to force to work when clay mud has jammed into the cleat. Lastly, the eggbeater style is the easiest of all pedals to clip into and out of.

Crank Brothers Eggbeaters: All the benefits as above, but without the additional plastic platform, which is sorely missed as it's a pain without them right after a remount if you haven't gotten your clip-in technique dialed in (as in, the second your shoe hits the pedal it clips in).

Time ATAC XC: 2nd favorite pedal. Not as much easy float (foot rotation) as the eggbeater style, but in exchange they have a really solid attachment and click in and out. They clean mud reasonably well. I liked them a lot, and prefer them on my mountain bike. But for cyclocross where there is so much in and out of the pedals, and running in mud, the Candy eggbeater style just excels. But I like the ATACs better than most of the Shimano ones I've used.

Shimano or other: I only have experience with the XT and XTR level pedals (both expensive). Over the years I found the lower end models didn't deal with mud in the cleats as well as the upper end models (although that may have changed these days). I'd say here in the states the Candy/Eggbeaters are the most popular, then shimano, then the ATAC (better in mud in my opinion than Shimano).

Hope that helps. Remember to remeasure your saddle height once using the new pedal setup. Also, for first time 'crossers it's not unusual to drop your saddle height 2-3cm from your optimal road saddle height (at least for the first couple races). It makes a big difference in being able to remount cleanly during those final laps.

Cheers, and good luck.

In reply to TobyA:

A hefty squirt of WD40 on pedals and cleats pre race helps to stop mud build up.

In reply to Liam M:

Just got tubeless wheels on my new 3 peaks bike so will post on this thread to let you know how I get on after I have had it out

The wheels are shimano mt66 29er wheels,just need to get some tubeless tyres on and give it a go (going to try schwalbe racing ralph)

for traditional races tubular look a good option if a bit expensive/hassle.

All the races and offroad rides I have done have been on tubed maxxis raze @75psi ,no punctures but a little firm to say the least