/ Lightweight synthetic insulating jacket

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shaymarriott - on 22 Aug 2013
To keep it brief - looking for a lightweight insulated jacket suitable for British weather. Small packsize; pref. Pertex or similar outer and Primaloft inner. Ideally pack down into own pocket (cant be assed with separate stuff sack) and have a hood. Uses - belay, rest stops whilst walking, coole evenings, and looking awesome.

Currently, most likely contender is Rab Alpine Generator.

Thoughts, oh wise people of UKC?
neuromancer - on 23 Aug 2013
In reply to shaymarriott:

Genny alpine fits all of those (I have one). ME Fitzroy is equivalent, and I've been told harder wearing. But less good looking.
sxrxg - on 23 Aug 2013
In reply to shaymarriott: I have recently been looking for a similar thing and have come across the haglofs barrier II jacket (I have purchased the non hooded version with lighter insulation to compliment a heavier hooded down jacket I already own) they also have a hood version though with more insulation that appears to be very similar to the Rab Alpine Generator. It seems to get very good reviews apart from the fact the hood is possibly not large enough to fit over a helmet - it can also be currently purchased for 79.99 including free UK postage so seems to be a bit of a bargain.
MtnGeekUK - on 23 Aug 2013
In reply to sxrxg:

Agree completely - in fact, just sold mine! Replaced with ME Fitzroy, as it is harder wearing and has a better hood.
BnB - on 23 Aug 2013
In reply to MtnGeekUK: Montana Prism. Slightly less insulation which actually works better across the range of UK weather. How often is it minus 20? Better looking too. And good value
HeMa on 23 Aug 2013
In reply to shaymarriott:

My pick:
http://www.sleepingbags-cumulus.eu/Climalite-Pullover,jackets,81.html

Light, has a hood and cheap. Only slightly heavier than the really expensive offerings from say Patagonia...
Hardonicus - on 23 Aug 2013
In reply to shaymarriott: ME Fitzroy is boss.
AlanLittle - on 23 Aug 2013
In reply to shaymarriott:

Arcteryx Atoms are excellent but expensive. (I got mine half price)
BnB - on 23 Aug 2013
In reply to AlanLittle: Absolutely correct. The Atom LT is the dogs. but it's rare anyone comes on here and asks which is best, price no object!!

Montane Prism is a cheap copy. But when you're risking shredding the fabric on some razor sharp gabbro it's comforting to think you bought the cheap one!
gear boy - on 23 Aug 2013
In reply to BnB: Montane Prism is an old dog thats been around for years, works well,trusted, on my second one now, Arcteryx is the posh new contender

Other good options

Patagonia micro puff, Arcteryx Atom LT, Montane Fireball, OMM rotor smock

all these are 40g primaloft or equivalent, much more versatile warmth for UK use
neuromancer - on 23 Aug 2013
In reply to gear boy:

I always feel like if you're going to put a belay jacket on, it's for belaying. If I wanted to be warmer whilst doing active things, don't I have a softshell or a fleece for that?

I've always been glad of the 100g primaloft one in my genny alp.
jwa - on 23 Aug 2013
In reply to shaymarriott:
I like my North Face Redpoint Optimus. Not sure about the outer fabric but I've sat about in falling snow and the odd light shower in it. Packs down nice and small in its own pocket.
iksander on 23 Aug 2013
In reply to shaymarriott: I love my Rab Alpine Generator. Pack pocket is a definite plus, although they could have made it more compact. Hood is good for a huge head/lid combo. Minor niggles: Bit long in the body for climbing, tangles with harness. Pockets too low to wear under a harness.
top cat - on 23 Aug 2013
In reply to shaymarriott:

If you are using it as a belay jacket then it NEEDS to:

Have a 2 way zip so that you can open it at the bottom to access your harness/belay devise.

Have a hood that will fit over a helmet.

Have high pockets in case you need to use it under the harness or with a sack.

If it doesn't do the above it is not a belay jacket no matter what the manufacturers tell you.

Montane Flux>
jonnie3430 - on 23 Aug 2013
In reply to shaymarriott:

Did you have a look at the Rab Xenon Hoodie? I was given one as a present and love it to bits. It has replaced my DAS Parka as belay jacket on a couple of winter routes (bit cold, so only on easy days,) replaces it completely for summer alps stuff and my normal combo of cheap fleece and windproof top for long trad days cannot match the comfort or weight savings that come with it. I think it is sub 400g, clipped to the back of the harness and stuffed in it's pocket it is barely noticeable. The pertex and synthetic fill take a while to get saturated, so if the day is only showers I'll only take that jacket to go over my t-shirt. I disagree with others comments on double zips and high pockets as this jacket is a near perfect accompaniment to getting out in all seasons bar winter. The major downside is the pertex is thin to save weight. Once I put a few holes in it I learnt to avoid scraping it off the rock... For what you have said you are looking for, it fits the bill. (Gf has an Arcteryx Atom LT which looks much better, but it seems to be a tailored fit and I have no idea if that is what you are going for...)
drolex - on 23 Aug 2013
In reply to shaymarriott: When I was young and awesome, I used an old duffel coat (because of no money). Warm, strong, practical. Ok, not lightweight or compact. Now it would be seen as a joke I guess, but one would definitely still look majestic in such an attire in the Peaks. Maybe I would go for a Burberry trench coat now.
Fraser on 23 Aug 2013
In reply to shaymarriott:

I have the Generator pull-on and it's superb. I don't miss a hood or a full-zip facility. It's super light - you hardly feel like it's on and is very flexible & incredibly warm. FWIW, I also tried the 'Montane Prism' and felt it wasn't as good a fit nor as comfortable to wear - it also felt a good bit heavier and 'stiffer'.

Didn't try the Arcterx Atom but have heard good thing about it.
gear boy - on 23 Aug 2013
In reply to neuromancer: yup, agree, as a winter belay jkt 100g is about right, as a crag belay, lunch stops and general cool evenings then 40g primaloft is great for that, i get much more use out of my light primaloft than i do my heavier one which only comes out with the snow and ice
BnB - on 23 Aug 2013
In reply to gear boy:
> (In reply to neuromancer) yup, agree, as a winter belay jkt 100g is about right, as a crag belay, lunch stops and general cool evenings then 40g primaloft is great for that, i get much more use out of my light primaloft than i do my heavier one which only comes out with the snow and ice

^^^^
This
stevieweesaxs107 - on 23 Aug 2013
In reply to BnB: Rab Generator Alpine,m.e Fitz
Great jts that can be picked up cheaply and will be
Good performers. I use an Arcteryx Atom Sv,had an Lt
But preferred the hood adjustment and a little warmer
With no stretchy sides on the Sv.
ads.ukclimbing.com
shaymarriott - on 23 Aug 2013
In reply to jonnie3430:

Cotswold currently selling the Xenon at 100 down from 165...

However just seen the Xenon X (tougher outer and only 30g heavier) for sale for 116. Apparently RRP of the X is 130.

I'll go for the Xenon X and report back when I have it!
In reply to top cat:

> If you are using it as a belay jacket then it NEEDS to:
...

> Have a 2 way zip so that you can open it at the bottom to access your harness/belay devise.
...

> If it doesn't do the above it is not a belay jacket no matter what the manufacturers tell you.

I don't agree with this one although the other points I think are all good. http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=1375 I can't remember which jacket of mine had a two way zip, but it was a total faff coming undone when you didn't want it to. I much prefer the base of my belay jacket to be snug and to stay down over my bum and I've never found it necessary to unzip the base of the jacket to belay - just pull the front of the jacket up slightly if needed.

If the jacket does have a two way zip make sure its a decent locking one and won't come undone when you don't want it to.
jonnie3430 - on 23 Aug 2013
In reply to shaymarriott:

Check your hood and helmet, it probably won't work with an alpine shield or such. It is snug with me which I prefer as it keeps me further from the weather when I need it.
aldo56 - on 23 Aug 2013
In reply to shaymarriott: I've got an Atom LT, it's a very, very good jacket but not really warm enough for properly cold winter belays. The idea behind it is that it breaths quite well (that's why it has stretchy panels under the arms) so you can wear it as a mid layer or when moving quickly in cold conditions. For cragging, daily use, booster layer in winter etc it's ideal.
sxrxg - on 29 Aug 2013
As I was looking for a similar jacket recently I e-mailed GoOutdoors about the North Ridge Couloir belay jacket to see what insulation is in it as it only states Primaloft on the website and in store, anyway the response from customer service after consulting the buying department is that it is Primaloft One with 100g in both the body and arms - if this is the case the current sale price of 60 makes it a bit of a bargain as most other hooded belay jackets using One seem to be well over 100. Hopefully this information leads to someone else getting a bargain as I have already bought another jacket!
And Climb on 30 Aug 2013
In reply to sxrxg:if it's the one I'm thinking of then its not very wind proof at all.
And Climb on 30 Aug 2013
In reply to And Climb: it is the one I'm thinking of. We'd wear it while on the gate and you could feel the breeze coming through. Particularly through the zip.
Henrycuillin on 04 Sep 2013
In reply to shaymarriott: Montane Prism all the way!

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