/ UKC Fit Club Week 336

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mbh - on 25 Aug 2013
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week's (335) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=560352

SidH - Really good going on your trip.
AJM - Well done on the Ashes - great report.
mbh - Good to finish the ultra, after the disappointment of the BGR attempt.
Nick Russell - training hard, baking cakes and introducing others to the sport - a varied week!
Sankey -Sounds as though Toronto needs a climbing wall like that tall bendy one in Holland.
pork pie girl - Do you ever rest? Amazing efforts, as always. But how many brownie points?
Exile - keep that training going! Hope the back is less sore now.
stevemarkperry - Sounds like you are grinding those problems down.
Curious Yellow - After the downs come the ups..... , and look on the bright side, it was 3:1, not 1:3!
annak - that's a lot of training for a hen do, isn't it? Great to see your HVS buzz taking you to even greater heights.
IainRUK - How many other people do a 20.6 mile road run, after work, at 6:50 pace? How long now till Berlin?
Leon - Enjoy the holiday!
Kevster - I am still inspired by your trip report from the week before. Training to climb....
Joughton - Great to see you again. From your blog "I couldn't understand how all that effort, all that energy, could come to nothing". I don't think, in your case, it will.
mattrm - Fantastic HVS effort! What news of the (ridiculously long) Ultra?
Needraken - Sounds as though you are doing well on the boulder problems, and you've got some goals. A good week!.
grubes - Not all weeks go to plan. You've got a lot of goals to keep you going. How long till Squamish? Nice video too.
Nomics4sale - Fantastic effort on GE, and some nice runs too. I didn't get to Wasdale a couple of weeks ago.
Baron von Chestwig - Great, detailed report. Any luck with Insomnia?
NMN - Good that the running is coming back again.
Eagle River - Good focus on he Ashes. Here's hoping it will be dry in October!
Luke Owens - Hope the traiining helps the DWS. Sounds very technical. First goes at a 7c......
maria85 - Not bad for a week you describe as a write-off. Running, cycling, HVS leading... Sounds a long weay from sofa-bound indolence, and the Italy trip sounds great. I've only pootled around the base of some of that (Piz Badile). I did have my 7 year old daughter with me at the time, but hey. It's lovely there. And, sorry, going to PyB for a couple of days to test gear? Is that, like, an actual job....?
useful - Well done on the MLT. Now how are you going to get all those mountain days in?....
Ali - An IKEA trip is practically an ultra. Everyone knows that. Take the medal.
mrchewy - nice progress on grit, and thanks for all the encouragement to all.


mbh - on 25 Aug 2013
In reply to all:

I'll be doing this until matt gets back - apologies in advance if I have completely misunderstood some of your posts. Now, let's hear about your last week.
AJM - on 25 Aug 2013
In reply to mbh:

Cheers!

<STG>
  • Try more E3/4s
  • The Ashes <tick>
  • Ames Low <tick>
  • Right Hand Man
  • NEW GOAL - Low Blow, ~25 move boulder link extending Ames Low

<MTG> - 2013
  • Complete the 8a pyramid (currently completed 9/8 x 7b+, 4/4 x 7c, 2/2 x 7c+, 0/1 x 8a)
  • 7c/+ "holiday tick" (UK route away from home and/or foreign route) - done The Ashes
  • Some trad - 10x E3s, try some E4s <So far: 8xE3 onsight, 2xE3 flash, 3xE4 onsight>
  • Onsight mainly on or as prep for trips - more 7a+s, try to onsight/flash 7b
  • "real" V6/7 (power not power-stamina)

<LTG>
  • Well rounded E3 leader, tackling routes in committing locations (eg Dreadnought, Big Groove, Dream/Liberator, Lubyanka, short-ish alpine rock of that sort of grade)
  • E4 onsight - ticked 3
  • 8a before 30
  • 7a/+ onsights at hard continental crags (currently done 7a+ at: Rodellar, Geyikbayiri)

<BHAG>
  • Big mountain routes like Tempi Moderne, Comici etc
  • E5 onsights
  • 8a/+ redpoints
  • 7b/+ onsights at hard continental crags
  • Some big silly bike ride like Pyrenees coast to coast or Tour du Mont Blanc or something

M: Lugging boxes
T: More lugging boxes
W:
-Huntsham. 2 failed goes on Ames Low falling off what seems to be the redpoint crux at about move 10. Then sent it - BOOM! Very chuffed.
- First Font 7A+. After much deliberation, I think in terms I better understand (its 14 moves so edging well into the sort of area where its more worthy of a French grade rather than a Font one) I think its a short pe Fr7c, so I've taken it as the last outstanding tick on my 8a pyramid (apart from the 8a itself of course!).
- This is based on a mix of things - where I know other long boulder problems' route grades they suggest 7c is about right, its taken me longer than any 7b+ and 7c I've ever done (hell, its taken me as long as The Ashes although some of that was figuring the moves!) and having recently ticked This God is Mine, a short 7b+ with similar length crux, there's just no comparison, I did that in a day not in 7! It could be of course that I'm just crap at this sort of style, but that's what I'm throwing out there. Ether way its been good training - either its hard or I'm working a big weakness and neither is a bad thing.
- Had some goes on Golden Bicep, the problem which you can extend it into for Low Blow - one dead point move I just need to get the knack for. Didn't get it this time. Went exploring and found some other bouldering I'm keen to try soon too. Keen to try working on Low Blow, going to be a bit of a monster hitting the dead point after doing Ames Low but worth a crack I think.
- Then to Symonds Yat, seconded an HVS and an E2 and backed off an E4 that was steep, dusty and polished. Lacked commitment.
T: Wintours trad. Seconded a VS and E3 and led first E3 in a little while, Flyover. Good to break out of the run of recent poor trad commitment.
F: Cheddar. Installed clips in Spy in the Sky 7b for friends and did my usual Its a kind of Magic 7a+ to warm up. Then onto Right Hand Man. Some ups and some downs:
- both the "it's just a percentage game now" links I wanted (ground to clips 3, or from clip 2 through the crux onto the headwall above clip 3) still elude me
- improved clipping position for second clip, little more work needed to hardwire the changes to foot sequence this demands
- the new beta I had for the top of the main crux is mint, got that rock solid, linked the main crux (one hard rockover remains) about 3 times, noticeably higher % than before.
- linked from rockover to top again
- think I need some liquid chalk as stopping to chalk is hard and I need dry tips for the crimps
- humid conditions, hand popped out of a jug at one point!!!
I feel like I need a sign, getting one of those links in, to tell me its really on, and they feel so close but so elusive. Hopefully get back on it fresher and in better conditions and they might come. Keeping the faith.
S: Short session at the Tor. Clips in Tin Of, the 7b I tried before, to warm up. Ticked it next go. Felt easy this time, recovered properly at the rest unlike on the previous day there. Since the clips were in and beta was available I had a dogging go on Indecent Exposure (the classic 7b+ way not from the ground), got all the moves made some good links. Toprope link from about 4 moves in up to the break where the rusty belay is which incorporates most of the hard climbing. Should go on next visit. Keen to try body machine then too, looks ace.
S: chilling...

Quiet week next week - out Monday to check out some sandstone sport at The Gap I think, then family stuff all week, might actually take rock rings and try and get some training in rather than just climbing. And really ought to do some antagonists, stretching, elbow rehab and so on. Could be an opportunity for that.
Si dH - on 25 Aug 2013
In reply to mbh:
In reply to†mbh:
Thanks mate. Was a good week.

Goals for 2013 updated a bit:
Grit: 8 E2s, 4 E3s in 2013 (so far 6 E2s, 3 E3s) (excluding snowballing!)
Peak lime: 8-10 E3s in 2013 (so far 6 E3s)
Elsewhere: 8 E2s, 4 E3s in 2013 (so far 3 E2s, 2 E3s)

Sport: Complete base of 7c+ pyramid (needed 3 x 7b, 3 x 7b+, 1 x 7c): so far - Brachiation Dance 7b+, Tin Of 7b Sticky Wicket 7b and Ground Effect 7b. Now aiming for Indecent Exposure 7b+, Body Machine 7c. BM is also 7c+ with the additional start...

M: wall session at climbing station. Felt a bit tired to start, but did a good number (probably about 10) of the new v4-5 circuit. Did the 7a on the 35 deg circuit board at the end, and encouragingly altho I was tired, didnt need to stop and shake half way, so trip last week must have done some good!
T: just did 50 chinups on the fingerboard, shattered after work.
W: bouldering at alter rock. Good session, short but felt strong. Did 12 of the 15 new problems.
T: rest
F: rest
S: raven tor to try Indecent Exposure. Pleased with session - had 3 goes up it and think ill have a good chance of RPing it quickly next session. Last go today I got through 95% of the crux from the start, and had earlier linked from the half way break to the top. I was tired and conditions were poor, so confident for next visit.
S: rest - at The Oval

Good week overall, fslt strong at the wall. Need to make sure I get out of work early enough in the evenings that I still have the energy to train!
mrchewy - on 25 Aug 2013
In reply to mbh: Ta fella.

Been a bit of a week emotionally and had to make other stuff the focus.

Mon - working away.
Tue - Working away.
Wed - Warmup in the boulder room but not concentrating well. Did maximum hangs on the campus rails, didn't feel like I did a lot but my forearms know it. One foot on.
Thu - Nowt.
Fri - Went to the wall but mind not on it. Did some hangs on the smallest campus rail, foot on. Best yet then went home.
Sat - Busman's holiday! Painting at home till late.
Sun - Ditto. Gotta be done I'm telling myself.

Happy to have actually got anything done, it's been a tough week. Bonus to side effect is a good chunk of fat has gone! 3 weeks till Montserrat and that will only help.

Was supposed to be away for 5 days climbing this week but that's gone out the window - crushing in the slate quarries will have to wait.
mrchewy - on 25 Aug 2013
In reply to mbh: Booked on that Smart Climbing weekend on the 7/8 Sept. Self rescue session, mind stuff, Lucy Creamer... even yoga! Anyone done it before perchance?
pork pie girl - on 25 Aug 2013
In reply to mbh: cheers for doing fc this week

been a bit naughty and haven't had a rest day in quite a while. . just enjoying not caring about being on form as i don't need to be right now

m..malham.baboo baboo. like it. turbo trainer in garage and core
t..68 miles and 2500 m on road bikes in the north llakes. newlands pass,whinlatter pass, honister pass twice from both directions. . happy as pigs in shit
w..malham. baboo baboo. like it even more. turbo in garage and core
t..gym. weights. lots of pull ups , core,int training on bike. half hour bouldering for endurance
f..cold stone buttress doing easy routes,picnic,run up ingleborough and core
s..malham. baboo baboo..better links. turbo in garage
s (today) hilly road ride then half hour boulder at wall for endurance
pork pie girl - on 25 Aug 2013
In reply to mrchewy: think nomics did one of lc's clinics a few months ago
mrchewy - on 25 Aug 2013
In reply to pork pie girl: Hopefully along later to tell me about it. Cheers!
mbh - on 25 Aug 2013
In reply to mbh:

M - 10 miles run
T - 11.2 miles run from my work to wife's work and lift home. Not helped by getting lost and having taken a Dorothy Perkin top instead of my running singlet from the clothes hanger in the morning. Which is partly why I got lost, as I tried a route that avoided the village along the way.
W - 9.1 miles run
T - 7.4 miles run
F - 8.5 miles run, 10 miles MTB for first time in ages, along a new blue/red track that has recently opened near me. I did the blue bits and tried not to fall off.
S - 8.1 miles run, 1.8 km swim
S - 6 miles run. Was going to do nothing today, but then I saw ppg's post and felt like a slacker.

60 miles running, 1420 m ascent. It has taken until the end of the week for me to feel that I've got my legs back after last weekend, but now it feels good. I've got some new goals - a 9 m trail run in December, the 20 mile Grizzly coastal run in March if I get in, and the RAT again next August. Then there is the BGR (2nd attempt) in May. I think in the winter I ought to mix it up a bit more, using the treadmill for one or two speed sessions in the week, and some evening runs with the head torch, which I can do from work along the coast path.
IainRUK - on 25 Aug 2013
In reply to mbh: 5 weeks to Berlin now..

m; 15.1 mile road run 6:50 pace
t: lunch: 3,5 mile run. pm: 10 mils at 6:15 pace.
w: 16.1 mile road run 6:50 pace
t: 4.6 miles slow road run
f: 14 miles 1200 m ascent argentiere
s: 18 miles 1300m ascent argentiere
s;am: 5 miles 700m ascent Argentiere. pm: 11 miles 1300m ascent plan d aguille
mattrm - on 25 Aug 2013
In reply to mrchewy:

I've done some training with Rebecca Williams who runs the course. I've also done some training in the past with Lucy Creamer. Both are really good and we also know how much I rate yoga for climbing. Think it should be good.
mrchewy - on 25 Aug 2013
In reply to mattrm: Cheers Matt. I figured it was best to do something like this now, before I really fix bad habits into my leading and I had a couple of hundred notes from the sale of my last motorbike sitting there... plus it's my birthday that weekend.
useful on 25 Aug 2013
In reply to mbh: That's a good question, especially with all the climbing.
I'm moving to North Wales, so that'll help with a lot of them.
This week has been fairly recumbent again.

On Tuesday at Maeshafn, Top-roping a handful of hard routes: This turned into just having a go on some E1 5a to E4 6a routes. Good fun, actually, not having to worry about gear placing on harder routes than I'm used to, and some serious food for thought. I'm definitely not strong enough for most of those pumpy ones! And the niggly shoulder injury is still getting in the way. Perhaps I should get it looked at?

The rest of the week has been fairly relaxed. Which is ok: it's been fairly full on for a while, and I feel I'm starting to lose interest.

After some reflection, I think I'm going to take stock of the climbing I've achieved so far, both good and bad; then take a couple of weeks away from chasing grades and try to get some good base fitness/strength training done away from the rock. And I'm going to be moving house over the next month, which will make weekend outings tough.
--
So I'm moving into summary mode, and feeling like I should take stock, chill out, then re-find my mojo for the next phase!
In summary for this season:
* I've done my first trad leading, both single and multipitch;
* I've climbed to the top of some 6b and E1 5b routes, regardless of style(!);
* I'm generally very happy on 6a+ and VS 4c routes. HVS 5a routes are a little more... tricky (why is all the North East Wales Limestone so pumpy?!?)
--
So I think my plan will be to get some fitness back to keep me hanging onto those pumpy routes. I know that in order to get fit for climbing you should climb, but that ethos doesn't really work with the group I'm training with and I feel it's not at the moment the most effective use of my training time.

I'll give it some thought over the next few weeks while "in transition", but in the meantime, just have some fun! Oh, and the new climbing wall will be opening near Chester soon, so that'll give some fresh excitement over the winter...
mattrm - on 25 Aug 2013
In reply to mbh:

DNFed at the halfway (43) miles checkpoint. The tendons on the top of my feet started getting painful and after my first ultra, I'm not keen to limp in agony for another 40 miles, so I pulled out. I'd not done the training and my heart wasn't fully in it. Still I did enjoy the first half of the race and the scenery was really nice.

STG - Climb 6b (or v3) @ wall, 11st 7lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, UTMB/Lakes 100, stay injury free & maintain 11st.

Weight - 12st

M - Rest
T - Fingerboard
W - F - Rest
S - 43 miles, 1000m ascent
S - Rest

Rested / sat on arse / 'tapered' ready for the ultra this week. While the ultra was fun (ish) I'm just not keen enough to put the effort in to get good enough to complete them. So I think I'll give them a miss for a while. Maybe try some shorter local more 'normal' running races. I'd also like to do the local fell running races (Pen Y Fan etc).

Hopefully get out climbing this week and get some more HVSes in.

Thanks to everyone about the HVS encouragement, I'm still dead chuffed. Just need to do a few more!

mbh - You're doing a great job on the stats.
Si dH - on 25 Aug 2013
In reply to useful:
Where's the new Chester Wall? My folks live in Frodsham so always useful to know new options :)
annak on 26 Aug 2013
In reply to mbh:

Thanks!

Been a busy week, am in the middle of moving flat, but still cracking on with lots of training while I have the psyche. Actually managed to get some runs in too - not specially fast but not awful.

M: 5 mile walk with heavy backpack; cycle 5 miles; gym (squats and benchpress)
T: cycle 12 miles, bouldering at the Castle
W: cycle 5 miles, gym (deadlift, benchpress stand broken so lots of pushups of all varieties instead)
Th: run 40 mins
F: run 4 miles @ 8.2 min mile
S: climbing in Northumbria - did The Souter, a fab sea stack
S: led a VS nicely and an HVS horribly, and managed to persuade my dad to climb some diffs and vdiffs!

This week: more running (half marathon looms) and hopefully some bouldering to stay in shape for going to Lundy at the end of next week - I'm so excited!
mbh - on 26 Aug 2013
In reply to mattrm:

Good effort on the ultra. That was a very long one to choose for your first, so just to get that far, batting away the little voice in your head telling you to give up is good going.
useful on 26 Aug 2013
In reply to Si dH: http://theboardroomclimbing.com/
Well, it's Queensferry CH5 2DH but it'll save a trip to Liverpool/Warrington/The Beacon/Indy for decent climbing!
NMN - on 26 Aug 2013
In reply to mbh:

Thanks for doing Fit Club mbh.

Went away for a few days Tue - Sat so ended up on the roads.
Ankle seems to be ok, well no worse, after first hills session since injury.

Running goals:
Half Marathon - 1h 25m.

STG:
Get out climbing again & regularly onsighting VS / HS.
MTG:
Push trad grade.
LTG:
Lead a tough E1.

M: - 5.55m trail run, 419ft.
T: - nothing.
W: - 8.09m road run, 299ft.
T: Ė 5.08m road run, 195ft.
F: - 6.65m road run, 124ft.
S: - 4.05m road run, 107ft.
S: - 3.00m hills, 1,774ft.
ads.ukclimbing.com
JimmyKay - on 26 Aug 2013
In reply to mbh:

I am well into my second week of Croatia holiday. Absolute lack of any climbing is driving me a little crazy. I do have Johnny Dawes auto to keep me company. I'm going to to buy a six month pass at the wall as soon as i get back.

5th year of climbing and even more psyched than ever.
mattrm - on 26 Aug 2013
In reply to mbh:

It was my third. I've done two 40 milers before. Basically it was lack of training that did for me. I like ultras, but I'd rather climb, I don't have the time to do both. So climbing it is. I'd rather hit E1 next year and 6c over the winter than do more ultras.
Exile - on 26 Aug 2013
In reply to mbh:

Back getting there thanks!


Best efforts outdoors last year:
RP - 7a
HP - E5 6b
Boulder - V4
Onsigth E2/3,
Winter VI 6

Goals for this Spring:
Boulder V7 - tick
RP - 7a+ - tick
HP - E6 - not yet, may wait until the Autumn

Summer
Onsight a few E3s

Training:

M: 40min endurance traverse - back felt ok.
T: 1hr PE traverses at wall. Soloed Cyclops, (HVS 6a I think,) at Hutton Roof while top roping with the kids.
W: 1hr 30 climbing at Scout Scar - warmed up on Rope Arse, (6a,) and had one top rope go at Bears for Fears, (7a.) Did it allbar the crux two moves, just got to sus where all the holds are. Keen to do this and RP it.
T: Nothing other than an easy scramble with the kids
F: 3hrs easy MTBing with family at Gisburn.
S: 1hr PE traverses at the wall - poor session.
S: 1hr PE at wall - much better session. 3hrs MTB
M: 3hrs climbing at Black Crag with wife - Jolly Rodger, (HS,) Sharp as Glass, (S,) and Glass Slipper, (E2 5b,) again.

Some good training. Aim for this week to keep it up and try to get back on Bears for Fears.

Needkraken - on 26 Aug 2013
In reply to mbh: =) thanks! This week has been more of a alright week, working on getting my outdoor bouldering back up to scratch and apparently climbing well indoors

STG (next 4 weeks): try to make the healthy month healthier, mileage, keep the psyche, climb with lots of different people.

Getting into the last week of this, psyche and milage wise doing well, healthy month not so much =(

MTG (before winter): 6a bouldering regularly, keep leading trad (been over a month now so back to VDiff's) get on some sport and train hard when indoors, get in shape for font!
LTG (over next 6/9 months): get to know my technique and style, push through to HS trad, try and boulder 6b get on some sport

M: Band
T: lazy
W: quick session at Holmfirth, spent most of it practising mantels for the start of font training. Backed off a problem I know I can do which was annoying
T: tried to tick off all of Piper Stone's problems in a night, managed most off them before the flying ants got too much. Realised the hole in my shoes has got worse and need a new pair
F: went to get new shoes hoping to get out after, rained on the drive over to the shop...fail!
S: had climbing plans but they fell through, went over to a festival in the afternoon till late
S: lunchtime rokt session, got a couple more comp problems and bouldered a bit, did some ropes too, top roped a 5+ clean but didn't have psyche to lead. Session abruptly ended by my rumbling stomach. Then back to the festival for much dancing and very little sleep

So in general not an amazing week but keeping ticking over, re-evaluating goals to start a-new in september =)
Kevster - on 26 Aug 2013
In reply to mbh:

Thanks mbh, and for the kind words re the previous adventures. Sadly not every weekend can culminate in such dizzy heights. Otherwise it would just be normal.

I had an urge to try caving today. Worried I may be wandering off course there! but surely all I need is a head torch? This would be at Stoney.

Last week was poor training wise again, just one indoor session.
Sunday - Colehill quarry. OS 7a, 2nd go 7a and tried to OS the 7b which is supossed to be low in the grade, maybe I need to be 6 inches taller to make it low in the grade! Ended up removing the kit and going to the pub. Did a few other routes too.
Today - will include it even though it isn't strictly last week. Stoney middleton, for the 2nd time in my life. I'm really loving the place! Relaxed day on easy stuff, tried the scoop at the end (E2) and had a momentary lapse on concentration which saw an old ring peg holding another slump. Good route, just the one stop, the rest was all good. So frustrating not to get a "classic" onsight clean.

This week: FB once, wall once and outdoors once. I maybe looking for a partner(s) for a daytrip over the weekend, anyone from london way interested?

Only 10 days to Lundy. Wicked!!!! Then I'm thinking shifting focus towards sport.

Cheers, Kev.
Garrouli - on 27 Aug 2013
In reply to mbh:

Missed the previous week due to resting for most of it. This week.....

M - Nothing
T - PE training
W - Core
T - PE training
F - Nothing
S - Nothing
S - Went to Ban-y-gor. Warmed up on heady days (6b+) which is a brilliant route and then got on Almost Me (7c). Jug pulling through roofs with some amazing fridge hugging to finish - by far the best route I have done in the Wye Valley. Got it on my 3rd red point. Then got on Stitch That (7c+). Again, really fun moves on big holds. Quickly worked the moves and had one redpoint but fell off at the big move over the roof. Felt pretty wacked so decided to try again tomorrow.......
M - Back at Ban-y-gor. Put the clips in Stitch That and got it first redpoint. The general consensus is this isn't 7c+, which is probably correct, Almost me felt harder than this, but the moves through the roof are brilliant so who cares!! We then did Pet Cemetery and had a quick go on Latest Craze, managed all the moves but was too tired to consider redpointing it.

Off to WIntours in a moment for my first trad climb in a year which will probably be hard work as I feel pretty sore today. Then for the rest of the week/weekend will be focusing on PE training in preparation for Kalymnos in three weeks.
Nomics4sale - on 27 Aug 2013
In reply to mbh:

Thanks mbh. I think you probably had a lucky escape from the Wasdale. I was doing a much less intense run in the same area at the time and saw some of the racers at various points, lots of very hot people not enjoying it at all and there were a lot of DNFs.

STG: E1 and E2, 7a or 7b in Kalymnos
MTG: 7a or 7b in Spain.
LTG: E3?

Mon: BoulderUK, first visit in ages, flashed up to V4,
Tues: 3.7 mile Shipman Knott fell race, 400m ascent.
Weds: nowt
Thurs: Pembroke, onsight lead: Rock Idol (E1 5a) and Tempest (E1 5c), 2nd Strait Gate (HVS 5a version).
Fri: Pembroke, rain, 2nd Manzoku (E1 5b).
Sat: Pembroke, onsight lead or alt lead: Sealhunt (E1 5b), Snozwanger (E1 5b), New Morning (E1 5b or HVS on UKC), Razors Edge (HVS 5a) and 2nd Blowin' in the Wind (E1 5b or HVS 5a on UKC).
Sun: Pendle Hill run, 7.5 mile 300m ascent.

Pembroke is totally awesome. I'm keen to go again this year if possible and if so I plan to get on E2. Not sure what's going on with the grades though, the Rockfax guide and CC guides have different grades for lots of routes and the UKC logbook has different grades again. It doesn't really matter but it's a bit annoying.
Nomics4sale - on 27 Aug 2013
In reply to mrchewy:

You've booked it already but FWIW I went to one of LC's bouldering masterclasses last year at Kendal Wall. It was on for 2 or 3 hours so probably not as long as yours will be. You'll probably get more out of a longer session as she'll be able to focus on each of you a bit more. Not sure I can remember much about it but I do remember that she gave each of us tips for improvement individually and she pretty much confirmed what I've been told before (I should try to move more dynamically). And it was great to meet her, she's a legend!
Sankey - on 27 Aug 2013
In reply to mbh: Back to the usual UK routine, walls and sport at the weekend. Pretty poor day on Sunday, but made up for it on Monday by linking most of Sidekick, just need to do the first couple of bouldery moves now

M:
T:
W: Matrix: problems up to Font 6b
T:
F:
S: Matrix: problems up to Font 6b+
S: Kilnsey - back on a (wet) Direct Flight, still struggling to work a sequence into the top bit...probably only any point in getting back on this to focus on this bit alone

M: Kilnsey - more focussed session on Sidekick, decided to pull through the first tough bouldery moves, ended up linking from here to the top..progress

STG: More 7a's (Bleep and booster, barguest direct): One more done: this years RPS: 6c (4) 6c+ (2) 7a (3)

MTG: 7a+ Appetite/Direct Flight/Sidekick/Gilbert Cardigan

LTG: 7b WYSWIG - started working
Nomics4sale - on 27 Aug 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:

Oops, my Sunday should read "nothing" - the run was yesterday.
Luke Owens - on 27 Aug 2013
In reply to mbh:

Thanks mbh!

M: Rest

T: Dinbren - Got back on the 7c, Linked from the floor to the undercut on the crux. So basically half way up. Managed to figure out a not so gnarly way of doing the crux. Still feels hard though!

W: Rest

T: Packing

F: 5 hour drive down to Swanage

S: Lulworth - Amazing place, doesn't look like somewhere in the UK! Fell off trying to onsight a big roundabout F6a trav called the Maypole as I didn't take chalk and it was extremely greasy. Did it easily in hightide.

Tried the classic Horny Lil Devil F7a, fell off 4 times after only a few moves.

S: Conner Cove - Massive contrast from Lulworth another awesome place. Had hoped there would be more for my girlfriend to do but it's an intimidating place for beginners, did Troubled Waters F5 twice and watched some friends on Freeborn Man, wanted to try it but we headed back to Lulworth instead. Regret not doing it really but at least I have the beta now!

Back at Lulworth I tried the F7a another 3 times and got further than the previous day. I'm pretty useless on steep juggy stuff. When there are massive holds but not so good feet I'm useless!

Might as well include Monday too:

M: Portland, Blacknor - Did some amazing 3 star routes. Fallen Slab & Fallen Slab Arete both F3. Also did Sling Shots F5 and Reptile Smile F6a+ both 3 star classics on amazing flowstone. I got pumped on the 6a+ pinching tufa's!

Really wanted to try Englands Dreaming F7a+ or Wolfgang Forever F7a but the sun was baking the wall making the easy stuff feel hard and we had to head home.

4:30 hour drive back home!

Really enjoyed the trip even though I didn't climb anywhere near as well as I thought I would. Not managing the 7a was a real leveler for me...

Mainly, it meant alot to me that my girlfriend did plenty of climbing as she's very nervous and scared of heights. The highlight of the trip for me was her getting to the top of Sling Shots F5. Certainly the highest/hardest route she has done!
Ally Smith on 27 Aug 2013
In reply to mbh:

Good week. 8b redpoint and E5 on-sight :-)

VLTG (Sept 2014?) - complete 3 peaks Cyclo-cross race

LTG (End 2013) - Unjustified at Malham

MTG (By end Sept 2013)

Get super fit for trip to the Red - flights booked. Whoop!

Diamond projects: Re-assessment of grades...

#1 >8b Direct start to NGOOTB
#2 ~8b Link-up

Non-tidal wish-list for weeks when Diamond is a non-starter:

Mandela, Kilnsey (wet at the moment)
Supercool, Gordale
K3, Cornice (will it dry out again this year?)
Trad project in Clwyd

STG:
- Insomnia, Dinbren
- Finger re-hab again. D'oh!
- Shoulders - reverse flys and seated rows to address gaston & undercut weaknesses
- An-cap - once a week to maintain
- Aero-power; continue to get pumped 2-3 times a week - 1 session to be foot-on campusing to ensure high intensity
- Core & flexibility work - back felt weak and unstable trying LF - must try harder to fit in these extra sessions
- Lose some weight; new aim <73kg - 74.5kg and 6.5% BF - weight up, but BF steady; must be muscle :-)

The week just gone:

M - Rest

T - Dinbren. Std 6b/+ warm-ups. Clips in Insomnia.
RP#1. First time I've felt pumped going into top crux and peeled off first hard move :-(
RP#2. Dogged up and dried hold crux crimp. On the very last move I really thought I'd blown it as I slumped down and felt powered out before laying one on and catching the jug. Power screamed and teetered through final section. 2nd 8b this year. Well chuffed.
10 laps of the 6b as warm-down/aero-cap training.

W - Rode to work, but punctured and had to be rescued on way home - almost new tyre fecked with hole in sidewall. 4 laps of racecourse wall (~f7a/+) as aero-cap training in evening.

T - Pantymwyn. Dogged new 7c+ project. Did all the moves and new independent section climbs really well. Then it condensed out and couldn't RP. Worked all the moves on the V11 traverse. It's boss!

F - Rest

S - 6am start to drive to Pembers. Crickmail Point. HVS, E2, E1 warm-ups, then down the Leap. Just another day/Scorch the Earth combo was brilliant, and was even more chuffed to do Minotaur with ease after falling off the long reach 8(?)years ago. Beer, steak and whiskey :-)

S - Not so sparky today, and backed off E4 at the Castle. Even the HVS to get back up afterwards felt awkward. Belayed mate up Boat to Naxos, who came very close to fluffing the crux 25ft above gear - spicy times! 2nd'd it and struggled with crux section with what must have been 10kg of rack by that point!

M - St Govans. 2nd'd Deranged as warm-up, then went back to the Leap. 2nd'd Shape-Up and then everything got busy so went and roasted in the sun back at St Govans doing Tangerine Dream - more unfinished business laid to rest. Arrow to finish and epic 4.5hr drive home. Sunburnt today.
Nomics4sale - on 27 Aug 2013
In reply to C Chestwig; Treacherous climber:

Bloody hell that's awesome, E5 and 8b!! Not sure which of those routes is the E5 but nice one!
Eagle River - on 27 Aug 2013
In reply to mbh:

Thanks mbh

Goal: The ashes

Tues: indoor bouldering, tried to take it relatively easy given the sore middle finger pulley but like a child I got carried away and did some V6s.

Thurs: circuits at rock over, felt OK. Did each circuit to failure then rested for 10 mins between attempts. Annoyingly my skin became too painful to continue before I felt properly beasted but Iíve not climbed indoors that much so those calluses havenít developed properly.

Had a non-climbing bank holiday of heavy excess. Hitting Kilnsey on Wed afternoon this week and Iím expecting to be rubbish and the middle finger soreness to flare up again. Hopefully Iíll get out on Saturday too and maybe squeeze in a session before going to Amsterdam for 5 days at the beginning of September. Lots of fun non-climbing things going on but Iím desperate to not be terrible at climbing by the time that stuff is out of the way.
AJM - on 27 Aug 2013
In reply to C Chestwig; Treacherous climber:

Busy varied week...! How hard/good was Boat to Naxos? Looks like a sweet piece of wall!
AJM - on 27 Aug 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:

From the north you drive almost past my front door to pembroke if you go M5/50 so if you want a partner or a journey break or anything just give me a shout...
Nomics4sale - on 27 Aug 2013
In reply to AJM:

That sounds very promising. Maybe a couple of days in Pembroke late Nov/early Dec if the weather is good? When do you go on your road trip?
AJM - on 27 Aug 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:

Don't really know - depends on Ali's viva and stuff. If we are still around then that could be good!
grubes - on 27 Aug 2013
In reply to mbh:
Thanks MBH I fly on saturday so wont be posting for a few week. Oh did I mention I fly on saturday.

STG (End of 2013):
Regularly try and lead cracks and committing laybacks
Lead E2 try onsight
Top out the chief
Boulder 6C/V5 UK and try get one in Squamish.
Climb Grand wall at squamish
Adventerous climbing on the isle of man in october
MTG (April 2014):
Winter Grit - 7A boulder
Winter Grit - snowballing
Winter Grit - Big air
Font - Climb a load of 6's and try get a 7.
Font alternate plan - eat a load of pastries from different pattisserie's
plan a trip to kalymnos for first week in april
Kalymnos - 4x7's in a week.
kalymnos - at least two ticks a day
LTG (July 2014):
Plan two week UK/irish tour visiting - Pembroke, North wales, Ireland, fairhead and isle of man

Goals for this week:
Stick to the no booze till squamish (3 weeks dry now) - going well so far but desperate for a beer yesterday ...
Climb a few sessions - Tick I guess

M: Rest I Think
T: nothing I think
W: short hot session at holmfirth.
T: Piper stones ticked all but 3 problems before getting chased off by midges. ONe on the top out was covered in flying ants and was getting eaten so dropped
F: weather fail
S: Jobs then Rest lazy un motivated
S: Rokt stamina stuff within my grades short but sharp

Next week's goals:
rest
fly to canada
climb

Did I mention I fly to canada saurday for 3 and a half weeks. Well if not I fly to canada on saurday to climb for 3 weeks in squamish then visti toronto. I may be little excited. Also I booked a trip for adventure climbing on the isle of man with the beareded one which could be interesting ....
mbh - on 27 Aug 2013
In reply to grubes:

No, sorry, didn't quite get that. What are you doing this weekend?
ads.ukclimbing.com
Ally Smith on 27 Aug 2013
In reply to AJM:
> Busy varied week...! How hard/good was Boat to Naxos?

Tried to up the volume this week and climb multiple days on the trot to get the same intensity as being away on a trip.

Boat to Naxos is 5.12c R/X. I think you'd be lucky not to break something if you came off the crux, or worse still the moves above to reach the thread. Saying that, it's easier for the tall (>6'4")

In reply to Nomics4sale: Just Another Day/Scorch the Earth is an E5 combo of the hard bits of two E4's and Minotaur is another E5.
AJM - on 27 Aug 2013
In reply to C Chestwig; Treacherous climber:

Doesn't sound like one to put on the list any time soon! - assuming I remember my cross-translation right that's 7b+ with likely serious injury potential. Beautiful looking piece of wall but an easier route might be more to my fat weak cowards liking :)
Exile - on 27 Aug 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:

I found that with the grades in the different books / here too - still don't know which i feel is the most acurate.
Nomics4sale - on 27 Aug 2013
In reply to Exile:

I've just seen that there's a whole thread about it!
Nomics4sale - on 27 Aug 2013
In reply to grubes:

ha ha yes you may have posted about it once or twice! Have a good trip, get the chief done. And speaking of the bearded one I have managed to persuade him to do a little pembroke trip next weekend. Hopefully nothing too adventurous!
grubes - on 27 Aug 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:
That will be fun dont forget your prussics :-P

I guess he will want to do something hard. I dont think hes been before
grubes - on 27 Aug 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:
Also i found pembroke grade soft when I went.
But it could be I am used to short sharp grit routes.
Nomics4sale - on 27 Aug 2013
In reply to grubes:

Tempest was hard for the grade I thought, Sealhunt was also hard but the others were probably soft or about right. I wouldn't argue with HVS for Rock Idol but it is a brilliant route.

Not sure about grit, it always feels reachy or hard to me!
stevemarkperry - on 27 Aug 2013
In reply to mbh:

Cheers!

Another good week this week with some quality bouldering time. Definately getting closer to my two bouldering goals and hoping to have them ticked before I move house on the 7th September! I also ticked another long-term goal on Monday, too. It's a big one for me, one that I've looked at in the past and thought that I would never ever be able to do. This really proves to me that I am over my fear of heights. Details on next week's post ;)


Goals:

Maintain 142 lbs: Currently 143 ish

STG (before 7th September):
The Undercut (Churnet, 6C+/7A)
Old Sloper Problem (Churnet, 7A)
Bonus Goal: Alternative 3 SS (Churnet, pretty high roof finish, 6C)

Potential MTG (Jan 2014):
Lead WI4 in Rjukan (TBC)

VLTG (dreams):
Dream of White Horses
Cenotaph Corner
Cemetary Gates
JuvsÝyla (WI6), Upper Gorge, Rjukan
Lipton Ice (WI6/7), Upper Gorge, Rjukan
Wheel of Life


This Week:

M: Bouldering at Gentleman's Rock. A few good burns on Jill the Traverse (I've done this before but always a good one to go back to). Other stuff.
T: Rest
W: A good session on both TOSP and TU goal projects. A few final inches away from the last move on TOSP thanks to DH Si's beta (thanks!) and slapping the last hold on TU. These feel closer than ever but it's those last few inches that count the most so still plenty of hard work to go yet.
T: 5 x 12 Pushups
F: Rest
S: Rest
S: Bouldering at RAC Boulders. 1 x V2, 1 x V3 retro flash and worked Pump Traverse (V4) a few times, getting to the right hand corner twice.
JimmyKay - on 27 Aug 2013
In reply to C Chestwig; Treacherous climber:

nice work on insomnia buddy. I'm yet to get back on it. Its funny that those were the exact e5's i did when i was down there. Both great routes eh? JAD/STE headwall is literally the most fun thing ever.
mrchewy - on 27 Aug 2013
In reply Pembroke? Flanker for VS was bloomin' tough.
Nick Russell on 27 Aug 2013
In reply to mbh:
> Nick Russell - training hard, baking cakes and introducing others to the sport - a varied week!

Thanks for doing FC mbh, yeah it was a varied week. I've had another one of those really, the usual ups and downs... fortunately the ups are more memorable. Since it was a bank holiday, I'm going to post up to yesterday.

M - 5 mile run. Noticed some achilles pain in the right foot again. This has been persisting for a few weeks now, decide to get it checked out.
T - Swimming, 2.6km
W - Climbing in Avon, did The Equator! For those of you not familiar with Avon, this is a 12 pitch (well, we did it in 10) traverse of all ~300m of the Main Wall. It goes at about E2, sustained with every pitch 5a/b. An epic journey really, taking us about 9 hours, with a decent amount of loose rock, vegetation, unprotected downclimbing and the obligatory rain on the last pitch. It's been on my list for ages and I'm really chuffed to have done it!
T - Rest. Went to see the physio. Confirmed that although it's not that bad at the moment, because it's been persistent I should probably rest it (from running and climbing) until it's not painful any more. Lots of eccentric calf lowering over the next couple of weeks...
F - Swimming, 3.1km
S - Chilled day, went for a gentle walk in the Mendips. Still too much for the achilles, sore by the end of the day.
S - Climbing at Goblin Combe. Really I was just belay buddy to avoid aggravating the achilles, but I did hop on and lead Girion Direct (E2 5b).
M - Climbing in Cornwall. Ok, so I was meant to be resting, but I'd planned to go down to Carn Gowla with a friend from London (who was in the West for the bank holiday) to do Mercury (E2 5b) and the weather looked good... Anyway, it was worth it! A big cliff, 80m abseil, awesome line, two big pitches. I love that kind of sea cliff experience! It was a long drive (6 hour round trip from Bristol) just for a day, but I'd do it again.

So the achilles pain is a bit of a downer, and after a few more routes today I've started some resting. I guess it's a good excuse to spend a couple of weeks working on the finger and core strength, which I've been woefully neglecting recently (damn good weather! :p). Getting on two big routes this week (The Equator and Mercury) was a good way to soften the blow!

Slightly adjusted goals here...
Short term plan (~1 month)
Rest, get the achilles back into shape. Work on fingerboard, core and swimming during the layoff from running and climbing. Hopefully it will be ok for the Bristol half marathon (15th September) and Lundy trip (17-24th September)
Medium term goals (end of 2013)
Running: Snowdonia marathon in October. I've been gradually revising down my expectations for this since May, having not had more than about 3 consecutive weeks of training in that period without layoff. Aerobically, I'm still in good shape, but it's a bit of a lottery with the running-specific strength and niggly injuries. To be honest, I'm kind of looking forward to it being over so I can run for enjoyment again rather than counting the miles
Trad: Consolidate E3, it's pretty on/off for me at the moment, get on a few E4s but only if I'm feeling good.
Sport: Try to do some... difficult without a car. 7a/+ onsight and 7b redpoint would be nice
Longer term goals (probably not this season)
Some inspiring routes... Paradise Lost, Cheddar; The Axe, Cloggy; America, Carn Gowla
Running: More endurance events, try some fell running
mrchewy - on 27 Aug 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale: Cheers for that - yeh, there's a morning or arvo with her, the same with Katy Forrester and then a morning of Self rescue ropework. The rest is in the head stuff... I'm hoping that sorts my fear of injury. No worries about falling at all but if there's a ledge...
mbh - on 27 Aug 2013
In reply to Nick Russell:
.. Anyway, it was worth it! A big cliff, 80m abseil, awesome line, two big pitches. I love that kind of sea cliff experience! It was a long drive (6 hour round trip from Bristol) just for a day, but I'd do it again.

That sounds so cool. Well done! I run around there every so often, it's such a great place.
Ali - on 27 Aug 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale: Love Pemboke! Done some of those routes and the rest on my list to do at some point - any particular recommendations? Was half tempted to head there weekend just gone, but figured I probably need some sport training before Kaly.
Ali - on 27 Aug 2013
In reply to Luke Owens: You weren't responsible for the screaming coming from Blacknor yesterday then?! We were at Blacknor Far South and were trying to work out whether someone was really psyched, really angry or just getting murdered...
Ali - on 27 Aug 2013
In reply to mbh: Why thank you <mock bow> I may need another one in a month or two for the next trip :-S Thanks for doing fit club.

M - nothing
T - Routes at Reach - 5+,6a+,6a+,6b,6b,6c+and6a (lapped),6b+and6a (lapped)- really busy with work so had to leave early :-(
W - nothing
T - Ran to work - 5ish miles? Felt good but forgot to restart watch after traffic lights so no idea how long I took...
F - nothing
S - Portland, Wallsend. Did two 6bs which felt surprisingly ok, and more importantly ok with the runouts. Tried The Enchanted Path (6c) and couldn't figure out the crux pull over roof. Got it once Hazel had kindly found the hidden hold and managed to get up clean but totally psyched out by the (actually not bad) bolting. Did a run out 6a+/b to finish to try and get head back in order - had to have a word with myself quite a few times on the way up.
S - Wallsend. Onsighted No Place for Mambas and the 6c to the right - pleased. Then got on Troll Team Special (7a+) on toprope in the sun, found it totally nails and got psyched out by steepness (on toprope!). didn't feel much better second time round but managed to link through crux (though I actually find the top bit harder).
M - Blacknor Far South - lovely day of onsighting - 1 6a+, 3 6bs, nearly got a 6c (fluffed the crux and fell off) then had a top rope go on an awesome 7b.

It feels very much like I'm taking one step forward and two back with climbing at the moment. Positives from the weekend are that I'm a lot happier on 6bs, and got my first 6c onsight in the UK. But, my head still falls to pieces, particularly when routes and long and run out. And being in the sun really affects me. Not sure how well this bodes for Kalymnos in a few weeks!

Curious Yellow - on 27 Aug 2013
In reply to mbh:
Cheers for doing the thread :-)

Mon - Castle. Boulder.
Tues - Castle. Boulder.
Wedns - Castle. Leading, 12 pitches up to 6c, mostly 2 at a time, all OS except the last route (struck by sudden desperate colour blindness on the last move and grabbed the nearest jug).
Thurs - Rest, pretty wiped out.
Fri - Rest.
Sat - Portland, Wallsend. Finally did The Watchman (6b), OS Best Fingers Forward (6c+), did The Enchanted Path (6c) after a few false starts, repeated Stalker's Zone cos it's great.
Sun - Wallsend. Feeling reluctant to get back on my current project, Halfway to Heaven (7b). Linked from just above the first bolt to the top but it was so humid I didn't want to even try the crux start. Had a TR on Genuflection (7b), great moves, very thin.
Mon - Blacknor Far South. Repeated a couple of routes to warm up, OS 1x 6c and came off the last hard move of another. TR on Ryme Intrinseca (7b) which I tried a couple of years ago... at least feels possible now, which it didn't then!

Nice weekend but a bit unfocused... I went into it feeling quite tired I think and didn't really commit to doing anything in particular.
Joughton on 28 Aug 2013
In reply to mbh: Just got back from the road trip, awesome. Just awesome!

Managed to onsight five E5s in six days of climbing, mega mega mega psyched, all lines I've wanted to do for ages.

Will do a proper report on Sunday.
Si dH - on 28 Aug 2013
In reply to Joughton:
Nice Jake!
Nick Russell on 28 Aug 2013
In reply to mbh:
> That sounds so cool. Well done! I run around there every so often, it's such a great place.

Yeah, it's a really wild piece of coast, I'd love to have somewhere like that to run. Well done on the ultra btw, and it looks like you've got right back into the training after!
Nick Russell on 28 Aug 2013
In reply to Joughton:

Nice! Looking forward to reading about it.
Luke Owens - on 28 Aug 2013
In reply to Ali:

Haha, if you were anywhere near Sling Shots/Reptile Smile it probably was me getting really psyched about my girlfriend getting to the top... Wouldn't call it screaming though!

I Didn't get on anything hard enough to warrent a full on Sharma scream!

Sounds like you had a good trip!
grubes - on 28 Aug 2013
leon on 28 Aug 2013
In reply to mbh:
STG: Get outside.
MTG: 6(1) e-points in August.
LTG(2013): 7a+*1, 7a*4. 34e points(30 to date).
VLTG(2015?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)

Falls: 0(1)
Focus: Lost

Mon: Arc(30 mins). Repeaters.
Tue: Arc(30 mins).
Wed: Holiday.
Thu: Mountain Biking (2.5 hours).
Fri: Longscar.
Sat: Stonestar(1 epoint).
Sun: Nothing.


Good holiday, my wife got her first lead in a long time @ Longscar. Saturday I was hoping to get 3 points but the crag was busy meaning an HVS & an E1 was my lot.

Really weak but hoping I can pack some volume training in now.

Starting to worry about the "easy" e-point target I set myself for the year....
Luke Owens - on 31 Aug 2013
In reply to mbh:

Anyone keen for the Diamond or LPT tomorrow?

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