UKC

I have a 16 mile daily commute on Nottinghamshire's decidedly rough roads, including about half a mile of very bumpy & muddy unmade road/track.

I'm currently using a Scott Sportster P3:

http://www.evanscycles.com/products/scott/sportster-p3-2010-hybrid-bike-ec0...

I'm fancying something a shade lighter & with a more aerodynamic riding position, and have been looking at cyclocross bikes as a possible option.

Any thoughts in general about this as an idea?

Also, I note that most cc bikes have a 46 front & 11 rear setup. The Scott I currently use is a 48/11, so I'm thinking that I might occasionally end up running out of gears and am tinkering with the idea of a larger front ring setup.
Any opinions on this as an idea?

Cheers
Chris

In reply to Chris Harris: increase your cadence! That's what I would do its cheaper.

In reply to Chris Harris:

learn to pedal faster.... That said I span out today on 46-11 coming down dunmail raise

In reply to Chris Harris:

Get a bigger cassette (27/28)

My Scott Cx still has its ultegra(46) cranks on ,although I have since bought road cranks

Find it fine on the road and hills ,and its on a 12-23 cassette.

I like pain

In reply to andymac:

Isn't the issue the OP's worried about running out of gears at the top end? Not sure how lower gearing helps?

In reply to Chris Harris:

as others have said just learn to spin, even on my fixie which i often run at 48x18 all you end up with is a really responsive ride rather than being slowed down. if you really want a more aerodynamic position possibly look at lowering your bars and shortening them very slightly (makes more difference than you would think)

In reply to lost1977:

Looks like faster legs seem to be the popular choice!

I made the riding position on the Scott a bit lower by sticking a longer stem on it, which helped a bit.

Might have to go out for a test ride on one. Anyone got any suggestions at around the £750 mark?

In reply to Chris Harris:

I'd freewheel.

In reply to lost1977:

I have (I think) 42/16 on my single speed and I often run out if gears on the flat at about 18mph. Going to run it fixed and try 42/16 but think I might need a bigger chainring - trouble is we have quite a few lumps round here as well.

In reply to andy:

on the track i will go up to a 48/15, once you learn to relax your legs cadence just goes through the roof and so does your top speed (going up hills also becomes a breeze)

In reply to lost1977: but there comes a point where you spin out - and on 42-18 that happens at about 18mph - suspect i need a larger chainring as i'm a bit stronger than when i bought it. I'll keep the 42 for cx races - fancy doing a few on single speed - easier to clean!

In reply to andy:

42/18 is a little small but i woulds rather go for a smaller sprocket at the back rather than a bigger ring up front. out of interest what kind of cadences are you spinning out at ?

In reply to lost1977: Dunno - I suspect about 100-110 (I have a cadence sensor on another bike and I usually ride at 85-90 and it's a lot faster than that). Haven't ridden it for a few months but it got a bit frustrating on a flat commute so I put it away in the shed. I've ordered a 16T sprocket and I'm going to ride it fixed with the 42, then see how i go.

In reply to andy:

by the end of a winter on the turbo trainer i was comfortably spinning 130+ for extended periods, once you go over 110 its all about relaxing (not really any more effort). similar to drumming the faster you go, when you reach the point where your arms start to tense up you cant go faster no matter how hard you try

You'll probably be fine - try and it and see. 30mph on 46x11 is a fairly modest 92RPM (http://www.bikecalc.com/cadence_at_speed)
Faster than that you're either pretty good already or on a substantial hill, where it might be easier to get right into a proper tuck. Cross bikes are great...