/ NEWS: 'Stand Up For Stanage' Say the BMC

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UKC News - on 29 Aug 2013
A busy Stanage High Neb, 4 kbThe British Mountaineering Council are worried about the future of Stanage Edge, and they're calling on climbers and walkers to sign a petition to help safeguard it

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68308
Alex Ekins - on 29 Aug 2013
In reply to UKC News:
Does anyone have any info on what the Peak District National Park Authority are planning to do?
Offwidth - on 29 Aug 2013
In reply to Alex Ekins:

Selling the leases to the land, possibly in pockets, with groups like shooting concerns interested. It's been an ongoing issue at BMC Peak area meets for a couple of years now. Likely to star in the Glossup meet on the 11th Sept now as well I guess.

https://thebmc.co.uk/stand-up-for-stanage

https://thebmc.co.uk/stanage-on-the-auction-block

https://www.thebmc.co.uk/peak-park-seeks-partner-for-stanage

dsh - on 29 Aug 2013
In reply to UKC News:

What's the point of having national parks if they can be sold off when the authority that runs them is short of cash. What's the authority for if not to protect the park?
toad - on 29 Aug 2013
In reply to dsh:
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> What's the point of having national parks if they can be sold off when the authority that runs them is short of cash. What's the authority for if not to protect the park?

In fairness National Parks are not primarily land owners, they are a planning authority (with bells on), so land ownership isn't really their role - Almost all of the park is owned by private individuals and the likes of the national trust or private estates.

So it makes sense for them to not own North Lees. HOWEVER..... They shouldn't be concerned with maximising the econonomic return from the estate at the expense of public quiet enjoyment either - they are faced with unprecedented economic pressures, so the temptation must be to milk the cash cow, and in this respect it's the job of the BMC/ NT/ RSPB/ WTs etc to make sure that they don't
Ffion Blethyn - on 29 Aug 2013
In reply to UKC News:

Easy Option.

Bolt the whole place, then charge 5 pounds for parking.

The increase in traffic should see lots of money raised, maybe even enough for a cafe.
Dave 88 - on 29 Aug 2013
In reply to Ffion Blethyn:

4km of bolted routes? It'll take a while to turn a profit on that.
sann1458 - on 29 Aug 2013
> Easy Option.
>
> Bolt the whole place, then charge 5 pounds for parking.
>
> The increase in traffic should see lots of money raised, maybe even enough for a cafe.


This made me laugh alot!
Ffion Blethyn - on 29 Aug 2013
In reply to Dave 88:

Not a problem, and cheaply done.

One bolt just under half-height for the leader so they can still risk a ground fall, and one at the bottom of the route to stop the second running away.

That way the beardies can still ask each other "what has one ever done on that dirty northern sandstone known as 'grit'?" or however they would say such a thing in Yorkshire.
Luke90 on 30 Aug 2013
In reply to Offwidth:

Thanks for explaining the actual threat. I'm glad the BMC is keeping an eye on this process but I thought their article did a really poor job of explaining WHY they wanted us to sign a petition.
DannyC on 30 Aug 2013
In reply to toad:

Good summary of the sitation.
Danny.
robal - on 30 Aug 2013
In reply to Ffion Blethyn: I always said that if I'd won the euro millions that I'd buy the place and bolt the living bejesus out of the place!
El3ctroFuzz - on 30 Aug 2013
In reply to UKC News:

" maybe in the world"

Who told you to write that? Was it one of the bigger boys or perhaps Jeremy Clarkson? Did they also ask you to fetch a can of tartan paint? And a left handed broom, or a long weight? I suppose it would have sounded plausible to you when they said fetch us a skyhook.
Offwidth - on 30 Aug 2013
In reply to El3ctroFuzz:

You must have mis-read that. I cant think of any places that are more popular in the normal sense it is used (ie lots of people go there). If I was being too kind and you really meant that, name me some obviously busier crags then (as they did say maybe)!
Simon Caldwell - on 30 Aug 2013
In reply to Offwidth:

Almscliff
Offwidth - on 30 Aug 2013
In reply to Toreador:

It must be the huge carpark they recently installed that enable such hordes? Or maybe its because some yorkshire climbers think the place is so good every climber there is worth a hundred in derbyshire?
Simon Caldwell - on 30 Aug 2013
In reply to Offwidth:
More likely because it's quick drying, doesn't suffer much from midges, has routes of all grades plus bouldering for those so inclined, and like Stanage, attracts those with no imagination ;-)
Offwidth - on 30 Aug 2013
In reply to Toreador:

Even for you this is strange. No doubt you love the place but this thread IS about a potential access threat to one of the most popular crags in the world, whether some of the climbers show a lack of imagination going there seems to me to be rather irrelevant.
Simon Caldwell - on 30 Aug 2013
In reply to Offwidth:
I dislike the place actually, for what it's worth (ie nothing).
Apologies for continuing the digression that you started in your reply to El3ctroFuzz, but at least these irrelevancies (normally unknown on UKC) keep the thread at the top of the list.
Adam Long - on 30 Aug 2013
In reply to UKC News:

BMC access legend Henry Folkard will be on Radio Sheffield in five minutes talking about Stanage's future.

Listen online here:

http://www.bbc.co.uk/radiosheffield
Offwidth - on 31 Aug 2013
In reply to Adam Long:

Starts at 50 minutes here:

http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/p01dnpbz
toad - on 03 Sep 2013
In reply to UKC News: Story on East Midlands today at half ten (ish) for the (relatively) local.

Slightly bizarre, as Sheffield gets different news, but the Peak tends to get EME coverage

also iplayer now from teatime

http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/b039fpc1/East_Midlands_Today_03_09_2013/
toad - on 03 Sep 2013
In reply to toad: from around 8mins 20
Chris the Tall - on 03 Sep 2013
In reply to Offwidth:
The UKC logbook system has recorded 230,000 ascents at Stanage, as opposed to 28,000 for Almscliff, or 280,000 for the whole of Scotland. Even accounting for the fact that people will make more ascents per visit than at many crags, the fact that it is the most popular in the UK is pretty obvious.

In the world - well I've not been to anywhere else that has that many routes or that many visitors, but then there are lots of crags I haven't been to.

Note to UKC logbook stats guru - most popular foreign crags would be interesting - I'm guessing Sella or Toix
Simon Caldwell - on 04 Sep 2013
In reply to Chris the Tall:
> The UKC logbook system has recorded 230,000 ascents at Stanage, as opposed to 28,000 for Almscliff

So relative to its size, that makes Almscliff approximately twice as busy as Stanage ;-)
Mungo Shuntobox - on 04 Sep 2013
In reply to UKC News:

my support faded as soon as I saw the bit about no shooting rights to be exercised.

Secondly - as an article this is crap as someone else has already pointed out here, what is the threat in the first place? Poor journalism to only give part of the story. Thanks to those that have been good enough to fill the gaps - maybe the BMC will employ you as press officers?
Offwidth - on 05 Sep 2013
In reply to Mungo Shuntobox:

Well part of the problem is that the National Park once engaged more fully with its public and other stakeholders, through bodies like the Stanage Forum; then that stopped. No news in such a sense is clearly not good news.
GuyVG - on 08 Sep 2013
In reply to UKC News:

on the theme of enjoying Stanage just the way it is I made this video, if anyone is bored this fine Sunday evening please do have a watch (maybe not if you're wanting to onsight FBD though)

http://www.vimeo.com/73642459
deacondeacon - on 08 Sep 2013
In reply to GuyVG: That was great, really nice right up on the Vimeo page too. Basically sums up my climbing to a tee. :-)
Si dH - on 08 Sep 2013
In reply to GuyVG:
Great vid Guy (& Mark, & anyone else who helped out - must have been at least a couple of cameramen or at least several repeats of some routes?) It's really good to see a video of easier routes that makes you keep watching. Interesting beta on the start of desperation too - I can't reach either, but always just pop a bit with me feet low...might have to try this out.
Jon Stewart - on 08 Sep 2013
In reply to GuyVG:

Great video! I was out doing exactly this when I saw you and Mark making the film. Sums up my (past) life in the civil service!
Jon Stewart - on 08 Sep 2013
In reply to Si dH:
> (In reply to GuyVG)
> Interesting beta on the start of desperation too

I'd call it duff beta personally! I don't really know what the reachy method is, I do something like what Mark does but on the left.

GuyVG - on 08 Sep 2013
In reply to Si dH, deacondeacon, Jon Stewart:

thanks

> (In reply to GuyVG) must have been at least a couple of cameramen or at least several repeats of some routes?)

yeah repeats, Mark did FBD 4 times, he only stopped because I said I had enough

anyway, get signing the petition everyone!
deacondeacon - on 08 Sep 2013
In reply to Jon Stewart: We must have all been there as I saw them too. Unless it was over more than one day.
Kipper - on 08 Sep 2013
CurlyStevo - on 19 Sep 2013
In reply to Kipper:
bump - BMC are looking for another 3000 odd signatures, if you haven't signed this please do :)

https://thebmc.co.uk/keep-standing-up-for-stanage

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