/ Best Crag for a total newby - Derbyshire Peak

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monkey1 - on 30 Aug 2013
Hi All,

I'm taking a complete beginner on some Grit tomorrow, so obviously I need a variety of nice Diff's and Vdiffs, preferably somewhere where I'm not going to annoy other climbers etc (though there'll be no top-roping, just slow climbing!).

Obvious choice is Stanage due to the variety (though crowded), perhaps Yarncliffe for it's potential quietness (though only a couple of suitable routes) - Any other suggestions for 5-6 decent suitable routes to go at? Nice view and atmosphere preferred.

Thanks in advance,

Dave

Al Evans on 30 Aug 2013
In reply to monkey1: Windgather would be ideal.
Rampikino - on 30 Aug 2013
In reply to monkey1:

Don't be afraid to get yourself up to the popular end of Stanage and enjoy yourself. Ignore those who moan about it always being busy and full of newbies - you're just as entitled to go there and climb as anyone else and if they are annoyed then they will have hundreds of other routes to choose from!

Birchen Edge is always a reasonable alternative, though the starts are notoriously awkward.

Burbage North has some nice routes but not in great numbers.

Quarries such as Yarncliffe and Lawrencefield have little gems but as you said there's not great volumes.

Enjoy Dave.
Offwidth - on 30 Aug 2013
In reply to monkey1:

Stanage is OK as would alomst any big crag, as the breeze will keep the midges at bay. Yarncliffe is a poor choice loose tops and biting ants in summer. I tend to go to Wharncliffe if I want a quieter venue with lots to go at at Diff to VD. Wingather is good but often rammed.
victorclimber - on 30 Aug 2013
In reply to monkey1: has to be windgather
deacondeacon - on 30 Aug 2013
In reply to monkey1: I'd recommend bamford. Some of the best views on eastern grit, usually quiet, gets a good breeze and the routes tend to be very good.
You could do a couple of easy bits on the first, upper tier and the. Head along to some o the bigger routes.
Guaranteed a good day out :-)
SGD - on 30 Aug 2013
In reply to monkey1: Another shout for Windgather.

No walk in,

Easy access to the top of the routes and therefore easy walk offs,

Short routes,

Nice location,

Lots in the Diff/vdiff range to to at.

Windgather usually has a couple of groups in attendance as well as soloist out to bag lots of routes quickly and people learning to lead so the atmosphere is pretty friendly.
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monkey1 - on 30 Aug 2013
In reply to monkey1: a massive thanks to all as always! Some great ideas - just the ticket. Have a great weekend everyone

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