What an idiot. I can't speak for hard sandstone, but as for soft southern sandstone, the outer shell is formed over hundreds of years due to weathering, so it isn't solid rock in the same sense as limestone etc.
If Crankmeister didn't wish to appear such a tw*t, he could have googled sandstone ethics and discovered why certain areas have the ethics they do. If we wire brush the hard outer casing it will wear and expose loose sand underneath (i.e. make it unclimbable).
Yes, soft sandstone can be very hard climbing and lowering your grade can be a good starting point until you are familiar with the rock. If you need to wire brush holds then you are climbing above your level. Dogging the shit out of routes is not advised due the rope grooves it makes below the anchor points. For this reason static is more suitable than dynamic rope also.
Blowing sand or dirt out of holds is acceptable, as is giving it a slap with a towel. If idiots like *ankmeister could find it in themselves to leave their ego's at home and be intelligent enough to learn local ethics and have some respect for them, many great climbs might still be enjoyed in many years to come.
> (In reply to cragnag)
> What an idiot. I can't speak for hard sandstone, but as for soft southern sandstone, the outer shell is formed over hundreds of years due to weathering, so it isn't solid rock in the same sense as limestone etc.
In reply to Fishmate: Yes, there are BIG differences in sandstones. Even on one crag.
Bowden Doors is very hard at one end, with virtually no feldspar in the rock to feldspar rich at the other where even a hard bristle brush damages it and it needs stabilising.
I agree 100% with you on established crags, there's ever any need for wire there - hard sandstone or not. IMHO of course.
(ps - there's no significant hard outer casing on these hard pure quartz sandstones like Millstone Grit, or millstones wouldn't work).
In reply to JJL: the blog isn't money making, nor ever will be, so 'promoting' it is impossible and fruitless. Its a bit of fun, another way of having the same conversations we always have. Lots of posts 'promote' themselves by prompting responses. This is no different. So relax.
lots of people dont know this, but for shiny sandstone its actually better to wire brush your hands. a light going over will do, just to burr up the skin, tho you may need to go a bit deeper to get a good burr on callouses.
> (In reply to cragnag)
> Registered 18 Aug.
> 2 posts only:
> 1st to promote your blog
> 2nd (this one) to promote your blog
> F*ck off
God, you're so miserable and unpleasant. Why do you have to swear at him? Is it because you're so unhappy and unfulfilled that you have to abuse others to make you feel better about yourself (that's the usual reason).
So what if he's promoting his blog? UKC is crammed full of people promoting themselves. The stuff crankmeister's written is funny, interesting and way better than much of what's written on here and which passes for "good". You need intelligence to write that sort of stuff...a little like Les Dawson playing the piano badly...you can't do it unless you're a great player.
Flahsy: Very good, witty and well worth reading. Keep it up and keep promoting it on here. Good show old bean. Don't worry about the knee jerk, lowest common denominators on here.