In reply to mbh: What gave it away...? Thanks for doing Fit Club mbh -
Apologies for the big post coming up, I don't expect anyone to read the whole thing!
Mon - nothing, anticipation building
Tue - nothing, nearly bursting with excitement
Wed - we're off! Left home at 11 to hit Avon Gorge at 2. We warmed up on a nice E1 called M1, then I did Arms Race, a really good, really pumpy E4 crack. I thought it was pretty soft, it being 5c, short and well protected. Next was Them, which I thought at E3 6a was much harder, being more run-out in places and having a harder crux! Much less sustained but also very good. Finished off doing Mirage which was another E3 6a, with a tough fingery crux. Stopped of at KFC, then drove down to Cornwall.
Thurs - Lower Sharpnose, an incredible place that all Fit Clubbers should visit! Warmed up doing an E2 called Out of the Blue, which was one of the best routes of the trip, really nice flowing climbing, a bit bold low down and pumpy high up. Followed Dad up Last Laugh, another E2, before doing one of the main goals of the trip, Pacemaker, E5 6a. It's quite intimidating as it doesn't have a very clear line and it looks quite bold, but actually it went fine, the easiest I've found an E5 so far. It was a bit pumpy at the end but there were only a few 6a bits, mostly 5c, and there was good, but perhaps a bit fiddly and spaced, gear. Really pleased to do this one, as I'd wanted to do it for ages and it went perfectly. Then I did Break on Through, E4 5c, which was meant to be soft for the grade but I was still a bit pumped from Pacemaker so it felt pretty hard! FInished off up an E1 to get out but I stupidly followed the wrong line (we didn't have the guide) so I ended up climbing chossy wet 5c moves above uninspiring gear - felt a lot harder than E1!
Fri - Headed back down to Sharpnose to do Fay as it looked amazing, and I was too tired to do it the day before. But it rained
spent about half the day sat at the bottom of the crag trying to find shelter until it stopped but it didn't. To make the most of a rainy day we drove to Exeter and visited some family for some warm food and a shower.
Sat - Back at Avon on the way to Pembroke, woo! The aim for the day was Amanita Muscarina because it's another route in Dad's "100 best limestone climbs in Britain" book, which is a three pitch E4 on the right of the ramp. We warmed up on the first pitch, which was loose and scary but with only one 5c bit, so probably E3 5c. The second pitch had a hard (6a) section straight above the belay protected by a rope lassoed around a random metal spike, which but my cowboy skills to the test in a rather committing way. After that it was technically easier but a bit bold and thrutchy (my least favourite climbing style) to the belay. The last pitch Dad lead and was just scary! Really crumbly rock to start with, and quite tough climbing on gear that didn't look reliable. Quite pleased with that, we also did Ladder of Desire for another "100 climbs" tick which I thought was absolutely brilliant, spicy but safe with good, flowy climbing.
Drove to Pembroke. YAY!
Sun - Mother Carey's. Warmed up doing Brazen Butress, which wasn't really as good as I'd hoped and quite tricky. Next Dad lead Zeppelin, which was probably the only 'Red Spot' classic left in Pembroke he hadn't done, and it felt pretty hard for the grade to me, especially done in one pitch. Just Klingon is another I've on the hitlist, which is this awesomely steep route which overhangs about ten metres in thirty metres of climbing, which is just insane on a trad route. It had a doable grade for the steepness though, at E5 6a, and Dad checked the threads on the abseil as well as putting in some where they were a bit shoelace-like. It was mega pumpy, probably around 7a+/b to toprope, and it had a lot of 6a climbing, with a really strenuous crux high up moving leftwards to easier ground. Very very pleased to get the onsight, although I still have a bruise on my thigh from the no-hands knee bar rest. Finished off doing Rock Idol, which is just the best route in the whole wide world.
Mon - Huntsman's Leap - my favourite crag ever. Warmed up over at Bosherston Head doing a weirdly shiny E2 called Keelhaul, which was absolutely roasting hot so it felt quite hard. Abbed down into the Leap to do Head Hunter, which is top-end E4 in RF and E5 in CC guidebook. It was another amazing route, doing committing 6a moves a way above gear not far from the ground, then a hard 6a crux moving out left which was better protected, and a pumpy 5c upper wall. I reckon it deserved E5 to be honest. Abbed back down again to do Just Another Day/Scorch The Earth but it was occupied so I was forced to The Minotaur instead. I would've preferred JAD/STE because I was a bit worried about not making the reachy crux of The Minotaur. The start was a lot bolder than I'd expected! Got a bit fluttery with gear kind of halfway between me and the ground, but it was okay and Dad was all ready to jump of the ledge apparently! Easy climbing out of a big runnel and up to a big bulge - stuffed in loads of gear and went for 'a look'. Pulled on the finger lock, locked off on the crimp, reached up to the big chalky mark (I could see the crux from the top of The Leap so I had a good idea of where to go) and got a big rubbish sloper. I decided there must be a hold of there somewhere, so I kept pushing down on the crimp (thanks antagonistic training...) and udging up with my right hand until I felt the start of a pocket at my finger tips. Another udge up and it was all over! Really pleased, total classic route, and another I've aspired to do for a long long time.
Tue - Trevallen half day. We didn't have long before the rain was predicted to start so I 'warmed up' on Sunlover. Bad idea! The start is desperate, and i got a terrible flash pump I couldn't recover from. Just managed to drag myself up, but the at the top it was quite close! Dad had a poorly elbow so didn't fancy following it, so I faffed setting up an ab for a while to strip it. With rain forecast to arrive shortly, and missing my only large cams and slings from the ab, I might have called it a day, but I decided to do another E5 instead. Ships That Pass in the night goes up the big arete of Trevallen Pillar, and is brilliant. The crux is getting off the ground doing an awkward steep start on wet holds from the tide. Easy climbing up thin cracks, then the cracks stop, the gear stops, and there's a big jug out on the arete. Big scary barn-door swing around the arete, precarious mantle onto the jug, then a couple of fluttery 5c moves a way above gear up to the belay ledge. I ran the top pitch E1 together to make a mega 50m pitch, abbed for the gear, and then Dad led The Hole - a very interesting route - to get out. Great finish to the week.
So a great two weeks - Pembroke in particular was amazing.
I think the tally of pitches was:
3 x E1, 4 x E2, 6 x E3, 4 x E4, 5 x E5, so seventy E-points in five days, which is like twice as much as all the other trad routes I've done this year put together! The best bit was trying all these hard routes, coming quite close to my limit, but not falling off anything! Which probably means a) I've developed a knack for choosing routes that suit me. b) Pembroke grades are sometimes a bit soft and c) I should've tried an E6!
Cheers, Jake