/ Trip report: Stetind and the Narvik region, August 2013
A couple of years back, Mickael af Ekenstam and Topptur published "Stetind and Narvik: Dancing on the Devil's Dancefloor" http://www.cordee.co.uk/Stetind-Andamp%3B-Narvik%3A-Dancing-on-the-Devil%27s-Dancefloor-det-15-95-95... and suddenly there was plenty of info available. The book still has many adventures in it - (15 pitch E1 or E2s described in just a sentence and one photo!), but the now real classics like the South Pillar of Stetind are well described. Buying the book involves some sticker shock (best done with a credit card and currency you haven't quite worked out the value of yet!), but the week we had using it made it very much worth it.
I've written quite a long report with many photos, so rather than just copy and paste it here, it's all on my blog at: http://lightfromthenorth.blogspot.fi/2013/09/rock-climbing-in-arctic-norway-narvik.html Any questions just ask.
The Stetind miniguide is free at http://www.rockfax.com/climbing-guides/miniguides/stetind-south-pillar/ although ours fell out of Dave's pocket before we actually started climbing, so I can't personally attest to whether is better or not than Topptur description.
Inspirational, I am dying to get out there! That was a good read, cheers Toby.
http://lightfromthenorth.blogspot.fi/2013/09/stetinds-sydpilaren-south-pillar.html Alternative title: Everything you wanted to know about doing Stetind's South Pillar but were afraid to ask.
Do you want to climb an internationally iconic route and mountain in the Norwegian Arctic but are aware that you're not really that great a climber? Never fear! All the beta and tips from a fellow not-really-that-great-a-climber are here in one handy package to help your dreams become reality! Have fun.
Thanks Toby, good to have a record of such a great trip. Next year ?
Been thinking... outside of Lofoten, Narvik, Kvalöya, Romsdal in Norway, Bregaglia and Grimsel in Switzerland and Chamonix, all of which I've climbed in, where do you go to climb long, high quality granite routes in Europe ? Whats next on the trip list ?!
Salbit and Furka (next to Grimsel).
Also pretty much all of Bregalia (Val di Mello, Val Masino, Badile and Albigna).
I also seem to recall Ortler being granite.
Pressanella, near Stelvio pass is also granite (a new route up there, some info can be found from Planetmountain).
Hmm, Salbit and Furka's a good idea. Many years ago I was completely inspired by photos of one of the Remy brothers on the 'Supercrack' pitch on Conquest on the Graue Wand in Schweiz Extrem but felt it was beyond me - its given 7a. I suspect over the intervening 20 years its gone to being within my powers to beyond them again. There again its supposed to easier for experienced granite crack climbers, and it does have bolts and you could stuff it with gear. Toby?
Just googled it and realise we drove right past there. I guess you can follow the valley that the railway follows from there down to Narvik?
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