/ NEW ARTICLE: Rock Climbing Basics 3: Lead Belaying
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=5719
So if she catches her foot on that rock in front of her toes when she lifts off the ground on the lead fall I wonder what might happen? Is a belay where you lift and swing into a rock face such a great idea to be showing people who are starting off (why not stand closer in?)??
She didn't though, did she?
This is an instructional video not a lottery.
I'm with you on this one. I thought the last one on "top-rope belaying" was about OK, especially allowing for the American audience, but this one - I'm not sure it's fit for purpose at all. Saying how it's important to stand with nothing impeding you in front, while standing right behind those boulders, just seems silly. Standing closer to the climb might have prevented her being lifted off the ground, but I would suggest a beginner of her weight is just too light to belay this leader without being anchored down. An experienced belayer should cope as she does, but a beginner could well let go. And this video is for beginners isn't it?
How would you say "Belay that order", for example? I wonder who has the correct pronunciation...
Two different words, one spelling, different pronunciation - a bit like a router (that digs holes in bits of wood) and a router (that controls the route of packets through a computer network). But to be fair, the only context in which I have ever heard "belay that order" is Star Trek, which is a US programme and thus uses US pronunciations anyway!
Jeez guys, get a life! People live in different environments and therefore have different accents, it's kind of natural and to be expected. Your accents and pronunciation are both probably quite different to mine. If these very minor 'idiosyncrasies' annoy you so much, perhaps you need to climb a bit more and complain a bit less.
What he said. Lighten up dude!
Can't wait for Part 4!
I also think when paying out her hand comes too close to the belay device and too much of the time her brake hand is spent basically in the semi locked position when with practice the rope can be paid out pretty much as fast with it in the locked position (by feeding up a loop of rope rather than pushing the rope in to the device). All in only OK belaying rather than bomb proof.
> All in only OK belaying rather than bomb proof.
What more can you expect from an instructional video posted on the internet!
I'd like to think these movies aren't a massive troll but I can't help but think there's a bunch of Americans on a forum somewhere laughing their 'asses' off.
I quite agree with Offwidth on this
As a beginners instructional video it seems to avoid the first two things which should be taught
1-Stand close to the rock if safe to do so, to avoid being pulled as she is.
2- Tie yourself to the ground if danger of being pulled or climber is heavier.
To show this basic mistake is surprising and for this to be promoted as an instructional video, without mention of these points, in this way is in some part negligent.
Elsewhere on the site
Manchester Climbing Centre is showing Reel Rock’s Valley Uprising on Tuesday the 11th of November at... Read more
Last year, Finn McCann wrote an article about climbing El Capitan with his terminally ill father Seamus, who had been... Read more
Pete Whittaker has flashed the 32 pitch route Freerider 5.12d on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley over three days,... Read more
A fantastically versatile little pack; whether out running in the hills, hitting the trails on the bike or just running for the... Read more