/ NEW ARTICLE: Rock Climbing Basics 3: Lead Belaying

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UKC Articles - on 02 Sep 2013
Lead belay thumbnail, 4 kbThis is the third in a 12-part series from Climbing Magazine, Wild Country and Red Chili, demonstrating and explaining the basic skills needed to be safe on the crags. In this episode, Julie Ellison, Climbing Magazine's Gear Editor, talks us through belaying a climber who is leading a pitch, a key technique for any climber, allowing a two-way partnership and the progression from top-roping towards multi-pitch routes...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=5719
Offwidth - on 02 Sep 2013
In reply to UKC Articles:

So if she catches her foot on that rock in front of her toes when she lifts off the ground on the lead fall I wonder what might happen? Is a belay where you lift and swing into a rock face such a great idea to be showing people who are starting off (why not stand closer in?)??
jon on 02 Sep 2013
In reply to Offwidth:

She didn't though, did she?
Offwidth - on 02 Sep 2013
In reply to jon:

This is an instructional video not a lottery.
jon on 02 Sep 2013
In reply to Offwidth:

Of course.
Martin Hore - on 02 Sep 2013
In reply to Offwidth:

I'm with you on this one. I thought the last one on "top-rope belaying" was about OK, especially allowing for the American audience, but this one - I'm not sure it's fit for purpose at all. Saying how it's important to stand with nothing impeding you in front, while standing right behind those boulders, just seems silly. Standing closer to the climb might have prevented her being lifted off the ground, but I would suggest a beginner of her weight is just too light to belay this leader without being anchored down. An experienced belayer should cope as she does, but a beginner could well let go. And this video is for beginners isn't it?

NottsRich on 02 Sep 2013
In reply to Martin Hore: Couldn't agree more.
highclimber - on 02 Sep 2013
In reply to UKC Articles: I just hate the way all americans say 'belay'.
NottsRich on 02 Sep 2013
In reply to highclimber:
> (In reply to UKC Articles) I just hate the way all americans say 'belay'.

How would you say "Belay that order", for example? I wonder who has the correct pronunciation...
Neil Williams - on 02 Sep 2013
In reply to NottsRich:

Two different words, one spelling, different pronunciation - a bit like a router (that digs holes in bits of wood) and a router (that controls the route of packets through a computer network). But to be fair, the only context in which I have ever heard "belay that order" is Star Trek, which is a US programme and thus uses US pronunciations anyway!

Neil
GridNorth - on 02 Sep 2013
In reply to highclimber: And "Rowt". On a trad climb I would want my belayer to stand a little closer to the rock face. Probably about at least half the distance demonstrated.
Fraser on 02 Sep 2013
In reply to highclimber & GridNorth:
> (In reply to UKC Articles) I just hate the way all americans say 'belay'.

Jeez guys, get a life! People live in different environments and therefore have different accents, it's kind of natural and to be expected. Your accents and pronunciation are both probably quite different to mine. If these very minor 'idiosyncrasies' annoy you so much, perhaps you need to climb a bit more and complain a bit less.
NottsRich on 02 Sep 2013
In reply to Neil Williams: Thanks for the explanation!
GridNorth - on 02 Sep 2013
In reply to Fraser: I think it's you should get a life. It's just a bit of harmless, amusing banter. I'm most certainly NOT having a go or getting annoyed about it.:-) I
highclimber - on 02 Sep 2013
In reply to GridNorth:
> (In reply to Fraser) I think it's you should get a life. It's just a bit of harmless, amusing banter. I'm most certainly NOT having a go or getting annoyed about it.:-) I

What he said. Lighten up dude!
GridNorth - on 02 Sep 2013
In reply to highclimber: You are only calling me dude to wind me up aren't you. :-)
jon on 02 Sep 2013
In reply to all:

Can't wait for Part 4!
CurlyStevo - on 02 Sep 2013
In reply to Offwidth:
I also think when paying out her hand comes too close to the belay device and too much of the time her brake hand is spent basically in the semi locked position when with practice the rope can be paid out pretty much as fast with it in the locked position (by feeding up a loop of rope rather than pushing the rope in to the device). All in only OK belaying rather than bomb proof.
highclimber - on 02 Sep 2013
In reply to GridNorth: I was calling Fraser dude. ;)
kilner on 03 Sep 2013
In reply to CurlyStevo:
> (In reply to Offwidth)
> All in only OK belaying rather than bomb proof.

What more can you expect from an instructional video posted on the internet!

ads.ukclimbing.com
Ffion Blethyn - on 04 Sep 2013
In reply to UKC Articles:

I'd like to think these movies aren't a massive troll but I can't help but think there's a bunch of Americans on a forum somewhere laughing their 'asses' off.
callwild - on 10 Sep 2013
In reply to Offwidth:
I quite agree with Offwidth on this
As a beginners instructional video it seems to avoid the first two things which should be taught
1-Stand close to the rock if safe to do so, to avoid being pulled as she is.
2- Tie yourself to the ground if danger of being pulled or climber is heavier.

To show this basic mistake is surprising and for this to be promoted as an instructional video, without mention of these points, in this way is in some part negligent.

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