/ modern bolts and staples

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mikealexpayne - on 02 Sep 2013
can anyone tell me roughly how far into the rock do bolts and staples go ? i have just started to do some sport routes and am interested to find out
LJC - on 02 Sep 2013
In reply to mikealexpayne: Obvioisly depends on the bolt, which depends on it's location and intended purpose, but have a look at http://www.bolt-products.com/Catalogue.htm for some examples.
JLS on 02 Sep 2013
In reply to mikealexpayne:

Could be as little as 50mm in hard rock. In softer rock like sandstone 100mm might be more appropriate.
Kemics - on 02 Sep 2013
In reply to JLS:

I would have thought nearly all bolts were longer than 50mm? At least all the glue-ins I've encountered have been, possibly expansions are shorter?
dagibbs - on 07 Sep 2013
In reply to Kemics:

An expansion bolt in good rock (hard, compact) would be 50mm into the rock pretty commonly.
jimtitt - on 07 Sep 2013
In reply to mikealexpayne:
The requirements for EN959 (the European standard for rock anchors) are embedded length for mechanical bolts must be at least 5X the diameter and for glue-ins 70mm.
The usual size of bolt-ins is 10mm x 80mm which give a length in the rock of around 45 to 50mm and for glue-ins the industry standard length is 80mm. For some rock types they go longer, we make them up to 200mm on occasion for the paranoic climbing on rubble!

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