/ I rally want to start climbing
Are these your nuts? (Didn't think I'd be typing that today.)
Between those nuts, some slings and 4 biners...I'd be game to try some shorts routes that I didn't think I wasn't going to fall off of. Particully if there was threading or tree slinging oppotunity.
I'm a beginner too, so you'll have to wait a bit longer for an expert..
You'll need to attach your rope to the gear with something (usually an extender: karabiner-short length of sling-karabiner) to prevent the rope movement dislodging the gear you place. Assuming you're planning to use your slings and screwgates for this, but don't forget that you may need some kit for building a belay at the top with too.
I'm afraid the nuts don't fill me with confidence - personally I'd hold off until I had a set of new nuts and some extenders.
...and a nut key for your second, otherwise you may need to buy another new set of nuts quite quickly!
Unless you've done Crooked crack a lot on a top rope and you're confident you've got the moves nailed then I'd maybe lower my sights a bit. if the chocks you're getting are wires then you'll need extenders and if they're threaded then you'll want to replace the cord before you do anything with them.
I seem to recall the top section of CC is quite dusty, so I'd definitely be looking to protect more than just the overhang - and you should think about backing up your gear, unless you're super-confident in your ability to place bomber gear first time, every time.
Have you thought about nipping over to Cadshaw castle rocks? When you're starting to lead it's better to climb well within your abilities so you can give all your thought to getting the gear right.
You could climb on that kit and indeed I would subject to a good inspection climb above some of those nuts but I'd not spend money on them!
As to what you could protect: Realistically given your apparent inexperience I'd say short ish easy crack routes, stuff with simple nut placements and good rest positions from which to place them. Slabby natural grit with regular breaks and a crack is a pretty good starting point. I'm assuming you have quickdraws?
If you're going to get into climbing then save your money, don't buy tat. You'll be using it for at least a decade so try other people's kit out to make sure climbing is for you and decide what you like then get the best you can justify, not the cheapest you can find. I'd certainly not be buying 2nd hand ebay slings if that's what you're implying you've done.
A modern set of nuts is what, £60 plus a few hexes for £40 and away you go. With a bit of knowledge* and a capable belayer that opens up thousands of routes to you in relative safety. Start with the easy ones, develop your judgement, skills and rack gradually.
*This is really the important bit. It can come from books and hands-on practice if you are good with that type of learning. Most seem to do better learning from someone experienced.
Do you have a more experienced partner? That is by far the most important piece of kit!
So, I sorta agree with the concern of the guys above. Not to detract from your ambition...
You could also build up to it differently, rather than top rope then red point it, you could top rope then pink point it. Maybe find someone else to lend you a more fuller rack before you embark if what you have doesn't work.
I'm not sure what you know or don't know, but I think always having in the back of your mind what the consequence of a fall is, even if you feel solid, is important...Everyone pops off at times.
There's an E1 on my todo list, I've done it on solo TR aid a few times so know the gear well, done it on top rope a few times.
Just have to work up to doing a redpoint!
Let us know how you go.
Don't do it - it will still be there when you have a proper rack, and there's a world of difference between making the moves on a top rope and high above suspect gear - if you're going to use your slings to extend your chocks, then you have a maximum of 4 bits, and then you'll be left with nothing to build a belay. You're playing russian roulette here
Still - if you're absolutely determined, then let us know how it went - it's a while since I last did it, but I seem to recall a fall from the top moves, with gear at the overhang would guarantee you decking, even if it held. something to think about?
Meaningless. It's not the nuts which might fail, it's the placements you put them in. Get some help or you may get hurt.
I hope you're logbook is wrong as you've only led one VDiff and now just jumping straight on a VS
What happened to new climberss doing an apprenticeship on easier routes (d/vd's) to get their knowledge up to scratch?
Sounds like you are psyched. But just a thought - usually the trad climbing 'ethic' is to try to onsight routes and not pre-practice them. Obviously you've already top-roped this so the onsight is off.
But...a more traditional way of approaching this would be to build up your experience leading easier routes onsight, until the point where you had the experience to take this route on with real confidence. Then you'd know whether your gear would work and go for the route from the ground.
If it was sport climbing then there is much more of a practice ethic so top-roping it repeatedly would be well within standard way of doing things.
Up to you in the end, I'm just suggesting an alternative way of looking at things. Every climber has to make their own decisions on safety and the 'ethics' of how to approach climbing.
As (some) people tried to explain/suggest in your 'grade obsession' thread - what's the rush? (although the thread title gives it away).
Why would you target a VS as your second(?)lead on 2nd hand/untested gear? There a reason people start Trad at the lowest grades - not because they're 'scared' or can't climb harder, most certainly can - but because these climbs usually afford the luxury of standing on a ledge whilst you take your time getting used to spotting placements, handling and placing gear properly, setting good belays and so on.
You might well do the VS, but equally, the approach you are describing will mean that you won't have learned much about the basics that you need to get wired before real progression.
I'm a relative novice/punter myself. I understand the drive to 'crack on with it' (check out my Wye Valley E1 thread... which I have a bit of cringe about nowadays), and I wish you luck, but some things are worth taking your time over...
Some good advice here, tho' I get the impression that you have a good sense of self-preseervation.
I know from previous posts on other threads that at the moment your prime enjoyment comes from the physical side of climbing. You've certainly picked a climb which many VS leaders find very physical so if you are going to lead it after top-roping make sure you've got your sequence wired.
It could be a challenge to place a couple of nuts above the lip without blocking good hand-holds.
The large, flat hold to the right of the o'hang is in, but it takes you away from the crack and there is no reliable gear outside the crack AFAIK.
It can be climbed gracefully if you use your feet well and can jam for a couple of moves.
If you decide to lead it, make sure your belayer stands as close to the wall as possible - you don't want any of it lifting out if you do fall.
All of that wall will be very sandy near the top.
Have you considered warming up on Eeny, Meeny, Miney, and / or Mo? They're good routes and have the advantage of a belay stake which is quite conveniently placed.
Stay safe and have fun!
PS Shooters have priority on Wednesdays.
This hit home.Maybe i am rushing.I just want to get doing something and the crack seems right for the gear.I will now have a good look at the vd,s again.
Cool. Like I said, I know how you feel.
Although I led HVS 5a cleanly first go, after fairly limited experience leading anything at all (just checked my profile - my 9th lead climb of any sort), placing the gear, not the climbing itself, made it hard. My problem is lack of time to climb so I always want to push it when I'm out. But I know I'd be a far better climber if I back off the grades for a bit and get more experience at gear placement etc.
Enjoy it mate.
It's far better to build up this experience on technically easy stuff where you are less likely to come to grief. It looks as if this message has already got home, otherwise I would have suggested that an essential piece of kit should be an organ donor card.
Good luck, and stay safe.
I think you may be a little nutty, no I'm serious.
Most climbers are, but that's no excuse ;-)
This is the climb you are thinking about.
The guy in pic is about half way up the route just before the crux move over the lip.
Could I suggest that before tackling this you have a look at the other side of the quarry where you will find a VD called Orange corner. I chose this as my first ever lead, onsite, as it is a corner crack and thereby offers bridging rests for gear placements. It is not a pushover despite it's humble grade and you do not appear to have it on your logbook.
You really want to be getting as much gear as you can in, not cherry picking routes you think you might get two nuts into. I'm not trying to p*** on your parade, there are good reasons for saying this:
It will feel seriously run out on just two or three nuts, this is really not a sensation you want or need while getting into leading. Also you fall a *lot* further on lead than you might expect or than the usual 2x distance to runner equation suggests. With two runners, even good ones you'll be barely protected (if at all) for some of the climbing.
Runners fail. They can fail because they're too weak (old, damaged or just small), the placement can fail, the placement can be poor... We mitigate this by placing redundant runners where possible and by exercising good judgement, something that is *much* easier to do from a relaxed position with some experience under your belt. While learning you just want to be getting plenty in and be getting reliable feedback on the quality of your placements.
You mentioned earlier that you have an experienced partner who's not willing to go with you for this, was that a wind-up? Your very best course of action here is to talk them into a more sensible day out, use their knowledge and gear (plus yours if you want) to start leading on some of the protectable easier routes. I seem to remember Rappel Wall was steady and protectable with slings and nuts.
This really is a little worrying,
You either need to partner up with someone with experience, join a club, get a guide for a few days or get a good few books.
Climbing isn't hard to get your head around, and it doesn't have to be dangerous. But you do seem a little naive. No offence mate
Wilton-Fest is just around the corner, hang on until then and I'm sure you'll find plenty people that you can share their rack and climb with, or even just watch other people climb this route.
Whatever you do, enjoy :-)
This is the route
You're very welcome. :)
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