/ Hardest chimney in the UK?
We mustn't forget modestly graded Monolith Crack. If you're any bigger than very slim it won't just be hard, it will be impossible.
Have you done Tower Chimney? That certainly looks worse than Strapiombo!
I think that depends on the conditions....many chimneys are on traditional mountain routes, quite a few of which can be climbed on a wet day in big boots, they can be very hard indeed! Gwynnes Chimney on Pavey Ark was interesting in a full on waterfall. I've done Corner Chimney on Direct Route on the milestone which is no pushover in the dry even in rock shoes, in big boots in the dry its really quite difficult...
In the wet......check out this video!
I'd put Boa-Constrictor (5a) at High Rocks in this category. Not a particularly high grade, but, to me at least, a real struggle. Not recommended with bare knees and elbows! :)
> In the wet......check out this video!
I remember that joyful little chimney- in even damp, those too scoops are so polished they provide absolutely no friction. I had to use the bellyflop technique to get into the chimney
> We mustn't forget modestly graded Monolith Crack. If you're any bigger than very slim it won't just be hard, it will be impossible.
Looks like a lot of fun! For big people, can it be climbed as an off-width? The comments (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=29194) seem to suggest big people just go round the side of it.
Hung, Drawn and Quartered? Three pitches of overhanging chimney at E3 6a.
Great Gully on Craig Yr Ysfa surely! ;)
Gin Palace in Vivian Quarry has to be a contender
Haven't done Brwynog Chimney on Cloggy but isn't it hard? And isn't Chimney Route on Cloggy East Buttress falling down? (Haven't done that either)
Some of those chimneys that Fred Dibnah used to scamper up seemed pretty hard.
Cant think of an example but something wide like Peapod that flares out and down would be a contender. Ideally with less friction and gear. There must be something awful like that on the on the Slate or on the Cairngorm granite.
> Cant think of an example but something wide like Peapod that flares out and down would be a contender. Ideally with less friction and gear. There must be something awful like that on the on the Slate or on the Cairngorm granite.
I think you just described Strapiombo at Pant Ifan.
must be the winner surely
I'm going to say Wombat Chimney at Wilton. Even though I know it won't be the hardest, it does somehow have what feels like a proper 5b chimneying move.
Going up a few grades, I'm sure I once saw a pic of Mammoth or Mammoth Direct at Gogarth (in North Wales Rock?), where I think the climber was essentially in a splits position to bridge across a wide chimney. It looked outrageous, but maybe it's actually an easier bit, or not normally done like this? I have no knowledge at all about the route, and I don't own that guide, so maybe I just dreamt it (very possible!).
The Quarryman is E8 7a and Gin Palace is 7c. Take your pick!
> Looks like a lot of fun! For big people, can it be climbed as an off-width? The comments (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=29194) seem to suggest big people just go round the side of it.
Yes, it can be climbed up the outside (De Selincourt's variation) - harder, but not so 'interesting'. I remember that that's what my brother did seconding, because he was so put off by the grunting that came out of the depths of the chimney.
Please define chimney (in the climbing context). In particula the distinction with offwidths and flared corners.
I am not being facetious. These things require very different techniques
Yeah, agreed. The Quarryman ain't no chimney, and I'm not at all sure Gin Palace is either, specially since the crux is a finger crack.
Basically any chimney you can actually chimney is about HVS tops.
Of features that could reasonably be called a chimney but aren't climbed that way, Mammoth Direct is a good call.
I don't know what it is but I'd put money on it being by George Smith at Gogarth.
But then looking at the video of Pete Whittaker on it (I think? In Welsh connections) you climb a chunk of the bottom of the quarryman groove like that. And Tom Randall in his blog about doing it titled the blog something like "the hardest back and foot chimney in the world".
But it is climbed using chimney technique is it not?
I seem to remember Steve McClure saying it was just like a Diff chimney only harder!
True. It's a bit of a daft question. To me a chimney has to be something that looks like a chimney (cut away, obviously). If it means something you climb by similar techniques to those used on a true chimney, then that opens the field up, clearly.
Offwidths like Ray's roof don't count, you can fit your whole body into a chimney.
Aside from the good suggestions above, what would constitute a super hard chimney? Slick rock? A shallow chimney in a horizontal roof where you're fighting not to fall out sideways? Something wide like Devil's tower in Wyoming which you bridge, or something constrictive?
Agreed. I think a chimney is a narrowish slot that you get inside, typically with fairly parallel walls. Though 'chimneying' techniques can sometimes be used in very shallow depressions, grooves etc. that are not chimneys.
Found the quote
"Upward progress is the same as on a diff chimney, but somewhat harder!"
FWIW Jack Geldard thinks it's a chimney
Now that's definitely a chimney. How come the picture of me on Dave F's gallery isn't linked to the database entry, I wonder?
I found the first two pitches of West Flank Route on Cir Mhor, both very flared, open chimneys, absolutely desperate (top end HVS), but it could be because I have rather short legs. It would be great to see Johnny Dawes on that. I'm sure he'd just kind of waltz up them.
'History records that Helfenstein struggled in vain.'....
I don't know why; it's pretty trivial. No doubt harder in a tweed jacket and carrying an alpenstock, but still.
Hardest shallow groove
Have I missed anything?
Have to confess i never did H's Struggle. It just looked like a very unappealing squeeze through a hole behind a chockstone.
From something on George Smith from the DMM site:
These super routes travelled through some radical upside down terrain, often following alarming offwidth features and hanging chimney lines. Climbs such as The Heinous Flytrap E7 6b and Barfly E7 6b really broke the mould and altered perceptions about what could be climbed in a ground up style......
Anyone know how much chimney these routes actually have ?
For the Lakes entry.
How about Fallen Angel? E4 back and footing.
I seem to remember reading that Herr Helfenstein was of the larger persuasion
Walk Like an Egyptian at Reiff is desperate, but I am sure there is worse.
I saw Barfly from a safe distance the other day. It didn't really look like what you'd call a chimney to me.
Heinous Flytrap is such a great name. I didn't even get it until the other day I said it out loud while tracing lines from the guidebook on to the cliff.
Actually, for routes which are both chimney-like features and climbed by chimneying methods, I suspect you'd have to go a long way to beat Bones Chimney. A collapsing sand cornice always adds to the chimneying experience.
The Deep, Cullernose Point (E3),was desperate (seconding), as far as I can recall
If flared chimneys are allowed how a out Orifice Fish?
What was that Chimney Dan McM was trying to put up on those big basalt sea-cliffs on sky? I can't even remember if he got to the top now.
I would have to say the Quarryman must be up there?
> For the Lakes entry.
> How about Fallen Angel? E4 back and footing.
I wouldn't have described it as backing and footing, Rick. For me it was more a case of left shoulder and one-footing; - and many other improvised techniques not found today on your average climbing wall! I ached for a week after leading that one. Probably my best ever lead in the Lake District. Brilliant route.
OK then, Burning Bridges on Scafell.
According to rumour, Pete Botterill back and footed up it, probably with ease. Might remember to ask him about it next time he's at the wall.
> I've done Corner Chimney on Direct Route on the milestone which is no pushover in the dry even in rock shoes, in big boots in the dry its really quite difficult...
> In the wet......check out this video!
That's a cracking bit of film. When I led MD years ago I had to use combined tactics to get started in that ruddy chimney. Great once your're installed though.
He never did get to the top. He didn't have a big cam and couldn't decide if the top section was going to be VS or E8. I wonder if anybody's done it since...
> Hardest chimney
> Hardest cleft
> Hardest shallow groove
Body width (just) through a 12 ft roof. So definitely a chimney.
Now sadly collapsed.
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