A quick query to those more enlightened than myself...
Indian Face gets the same grade as The Walk of Life. I know DB and JP both took big falls on it and lived to tell the tale. A fall on Indian Face is seen as almost certain death, however. Should one of them be graded differently or am I missing something?
> Indian Face gets the same grade as The Walk of Life. I know DB and JP both took big falls on it and lived to tell the tale. A fall on Indian Face is seen as almost certain death, however. Should one of them be graded differently or am I missing something? >
Presumably the actual climing on that route is harder to justify the grade. The climbing on Indian face is reckoned to be "not that hard for E9".
In reply to pec: the climbing on WOL is about Fr8a+, whereas IF is reckoned to e about 7b+. So fairly different in terms of difficulty. Plus the first bit of WOL, whilst not being guaranteed death, is pretty serious.
In reply to UKC News: wow. Watch this before watching Johnny and Dixon in the pub, it makes their slightly beered up pride sound like the understatement of the century. Done in 86 and still pushing the worlds best climbers to their limit, well done Johnny Dawes.
In reply to UKC News:
The speed in which Dave can headpoint other climbers magna opera is quite amazing. The coolness and control shown in this film is just uncanny. A chop route of almost mythical standing pretty much cruised on camera with his wife belaying.
Is there anyone else operating at this level in the UK? Has there ever been...?
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
That is interesting John.
Do you think the era differences are still as valid as we taper towards the (im)possible?
In terms of recent quick ascents, I guess there is always a degree of bubble bursting with every successful ascent. Except Neil's which would be enough to put anyone off ... He may never ave fully recovered.
This is the one for that does it for me and probably many armchair E9 lads and lass's. Talk about sweaty palms, I was shitting bricks. Dave Mcleod is the man, watching his films gave me the inspiration to be become sober.
In reply to UKC News: Dave is one hell of a climber/bloke, modest, intelligent and above all seems to be a well rounded chap.
Good on you for coming across as a normal bloke and not some ego raving monster.
> (In reply to UKC News) Awesome video! Really like the mic breathing and no music, almost feel like you're there actually watching the ascent. Psyched!
Totally agree - I was just holding my breath with fear the whole time!
Wish they hadn't had so many cut aways though - I'd have preferred to see whole climbing with voiceover to maintain the awesome tension.
Perhaps it was to ensure the audience don't have heart failure.
> (In reply to UKC News)
> Sorry, the camera angle ruins it for me - you just can't get a feel for the true nature of the climbing.
I think they made the best of what they had available. Multiple cameras would have been helpful, but given their undoubted production restrictions I think it's a great video. I managed to sense the intensity, committment and loneliness from the footage they showed, coupled with Dave's commentary and pieces to camera.
More great route, but business as usual: "The next bit up to the good hold before the crux went much better. Stood there I tried to feel the aura of the route to tell myself I shouldn’t be there. But after a few minutes I still wasn’t scared and felt I ought to be getting moving on sore feet. I looked down. Claire was yawning. I felt thirsty, and noticed a fly buzz past. Time to go."