/ NEWS: FRI NIGHT VID: Exclusive: Dave MacLeod climbs The Indian Face
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68330
Definitely sweaty palms watching that. Could have done without the tilting of the shots though as it looks bizarre like that but I'm not going to ask him to go back and do it again :-)
Does anyone know what angle IF is? Hard to tell with the various camera angles, but looks a good 80 degrees or so? Academic interest only...
I found it strangely moving at the end, when he reflects that there are plenty of things in life where you can't afford to fail. I don't no why, maybe because he is just so modest, and understated.
Amazing footage. Sweaty palms or what?!
A quick query to those more enlightened than myself...
Indian Face gets the same grade as The Walk of Life. I know DB and JP both took big falls on it and lived to tell the tale. A fall on Indian Face is seen as almost certain death, however. Should one of them be graded differently or am I missing something?
Presumably the actual climing on that route is harder to justify the grade. The climbing on Indian face is reckoned to be "not that hard for E9".
For much of that video the camera is tilted and it looks steeper than it is.
> Does anyone know what angle IF is? Hard to tell with the various camera angles, but looks a good 80 degrees or so? Academic interest only...
In one of Jonny's interviews think he estimates the first section to be 70 degrees and the upper crux section to be 82 degrees
The speed in which Dave can headpoint other climbers magna opera is quite amazing. The coolness and control shown in this film is just uncanny. A chop route of almost mythical standing pretty much cruised on camera with his wife belaying.
Is there anyone else operating at this level in the UK? Has there ever been...?
To be fair, I imagine that in 1986 Johnny would have made fairly short work of the testpieces of 1959.
But to answer your question, Caff did it far quicker than Dave M. So I suppose the answer must be yes.
That is interesting John.
Do you think the era differences are still as valid as we taper towards the (im)possible?
In terms of recent quick ascents, I guess there is always a degree of bubble bursting with every successful ascent. Except Neil's which would be enough to put anyone off ... He may never ave fully recovered.
Cutting edge in 1959 = E3
Cutting edge in 1986 = E9
The youth of today need to get their act together or they'll never be warming up on Echo Wall and crushing unprotected E17s by 2013...oh wait...
And no-one shoots 59 round the Old Course. Loafers.
Agreed; normally the palms would be sweating buckets watching that, but strangely they were completely dry. The breathing seemed to have a calming effect on viewing.
Does Daves ascent get the award for worst conditions? All others were high pressure spells high summer?
Good on you for coming across as a normal bloke and not some ego raving monster.
Proper. Totally gripping
......and no music to ruin it.
Here here. And it's refreshing to see the cutting edge being proper scared.
Me too. All the way up, I was thinking, "So this is what it takes." Continuously 'on the edge of panic...' with the resting ledge, 'the loneliest place...'
You felt the slightest miscalculation or change in weather would have resulted in the most horrible consequences. When he finally arrived on the grass ledge, you just thought, "Thank f*ck!"
Totally agree - I was just holding my breath with fear the whole time!
Wish they hadn't had so many cut aways though - I'd have preferred to see whole climbing with voiceover to maintain the awesome tension.
Perhaps it was to ensure the audience don't have heart failure.
Sorry, the camera angle ruins it for me - you just can't get a feel for the true nature of the climbing.
> Sorry, the camera angle ruins it for me - you just can't get a feel for the true nature of the climbing.
I think they made the best of what they had available. Multiple cameras would have been helpful, but given their undoubted production restrictions I think it's a great video. I managed to sense the intensity, committment and loneliness from the footage they showed, coupled with Dave's commentary and pieces to camera.
IMHO you can hear the fear in his breathing.
Most climbers have experienced this- usually at a different technical level - where you keep your breathing under control but you are fearful of the consequences.
More great route, but business as usual:
"The next bit up to the good hold before the crux went much better. Stood there I tried to feel the aura of the route to tell myself I shouldn’t be there. But after a few minutes I still wasn’t scared and felt I ought to be getting moving on sore feet. I looked down. Claire was yawning. I felt thirsty, and noticed a fly buzz past. Time to go."
Very impressive - glad to see that the Cloggy grass at the top is just as reliable as it was in my day.
Amazing footage. Claire is obviously a very understanding and supportive wife..!
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