/ NEW ARTICLE: Rock Climbing Basics 5: Clipping
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=5724
While the advice is mostly good there is no mention of the differences between different types of quickdraws and the difference between sports climbing and trad climbing. She states quite categorically that the orientation shown is "The safest way to set up your quick draw". Well it may be in a certain situation but not always.
I actually like the set up shown only for sport climbing. On trad routes I like a variety of quickdraw/slings and some where I can spin the bottom crab around so the gate points up. In many situations after clipping I spin the crab and feel safer. Of course it takes a bit more thought on how it will lie against the rock and which direction you are climbing off in but this is experience and experience starts to be gained by the proper information being available from the start.
While I agree mostly with what is said it can be that videos like this which don't even mention alternatives eventually start to become quoted and the method taught as the only way. The pros & cons of different set up require mention rather than just showing one way.
Some of the content of these videos is at best questionable. Movie 'shorts', I'd suggest, are a poor format for providing even limited and basic instruction in what is a complex set of equally complex skills. I'm sure the advertising works a treat though.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=5723 not seen this method before at 3.00 minutes ..although its ok and an extra anchor ,its not the way ive been shown ,I would have thought if anything the figure of 8 tail would have been clove hitched (or fig8 on the bight) back to the harness..any thoughts?
Compared with all the things you could be stressing for beginners, the relative direction of top and bottom krabs seems like a strange one to me.
The beaners magically swap orientation in the "how to place a wire" video
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