UKC

Trifthorn Couloir

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 furbrow 09 Sep 2013
A friend and I were staying at the Rothorn hut above Zermatt in mid August and thought the Trifthorn looked a good option for a shortish day. The normal route from the Rothorn Hut goes up and down a fine AD ridge, but to get to the start of the ridge (and to descend from it) involves an absolutely hideous broad couloir which(when bare of snow, as it was in August) is full of unstable rock and stones of all sizes. It is not very steep but it is practically impossible to avoid dislodging stuff. There is potential for some serious rockfall. Does anyone know whether there is any other way of accessing or coming off the ridge?
 philipjardine 22 Sep 2013
In reply to furbrow: I looked up at this when i was descending from the Wellenkuppe a couple of weeks ago. It does look awful. I did the Trifthorn this way about 30 years ago and remember it being quite easy. I suspect glacial retreat has made it a lot harder. The Trifthorn looks straightforward from the Mountet hut side (although I havent done it). This might be a better way of doing it.

Phil
 SouthernSteve 22 Sep 2013
In reply to philipjardine:

The Trifthorn from the Mountet hut is easy except for a 30-50 m steep section just above the bergschrund, a bit more interesting than the grade (F) would imply especially with a covering of wet snow. We put a couple of screws in which is pretty unusual for that grade. It was a good diversion when the Zinal Rothorn was out of condition.

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