/ Snohetta traverse?

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Red Rover - on 10 Sep 2013
I'm thinking of going to Norway next summer to do the Snohetta traverse, but all I can find is this google translated guide.


Has anybody done it? It's a traverse of this ridge http://www.westcoastpeaks.com/Peaks/snohetta.html

The guide does make some sense but mentions grade 4 climbing, is this UIAA, Sport, American etc?

In reply to Red Rover:

It will almost certainly be a Norwegian grades. Grading in Norway is always a bit of a lottery, but you can think 4 as being british S / VS, 4b. I haven't been to Snohetta, but this is from my general experince of climbing in Norwegian mountains.

You can also check out:

Red Rover - on 10 Sep 2013
In reply to Jamie Simpson: Cool thanks a lot. Ive found a picture of the crux pitch


looks harder than VS near the top. Maybe you traverse right into that kind of groove. Who knows. I just want to know if its somthing I can get up after I've pulled the ropes down. Maybe I should leave a rope in place until Ive had a good look at it.
Doug on 10 Sep 2013
In reply to Jamie Simpson: I've looked the ridge from the summit of Snohetta ( we were on skis so up & down the easy route which in summer Id imagine is a walk) - looked a bit like the Cuillin ridge. Always fancied going back in summer but have never had the chance
and here:


DNT suggest -4. They suggest the climbing is not so difficult.

It should be noted this is within high mountains where winter conditions can occur during the summer months.

Red Rover - on 10 Sep 2013
In reply to Jamie Simpson:
Thanks, I found a video of it on youtube as well which makes it look like a S/HS so it will probably be fine. How do you get weather forcasts out there? I think I'll walk to the start and bivvy the night before. If its in July does that mean getting benighted doesnt matter as it wont really get dark?
Doug on 10 Sep 2013
In reply to Red Rover: There's a good unwardened DNT hut at the base of the mountain, a few hours walk from the road/railway (http://ut.no/hytte/reinheim )
although I guess it depends which direction you do the traverse
Red Rover - on 10 Sep 2013
In reply to Jamie Simpson: Thanks the climbing looks ok, and the whole thing looks brilliant. Normally Id just turn up and have a go I just font like pulling ropes down if I dont know the way up.
csab1978 - on 22 Sep 2013
In reply to Red Rover:
I've just got back from trying the traverse. We left Friday night from Kongsvoll(886m) and walked to Reinheim cabin(1341m). The walking is easy, guide says between 3-5hrs. Watch out for Musk Ox, we got too close due to low light and got charged by a big bull and its a scary experience. We bivvied 300m from the cabin and started out at 07:30 Saturday morning in great weather. Guide book suggests 2-4 to the main summit of Sn°hetta(2286m. There was alot of snow on the way up and the wind picked up as neared the topp. The route was caked in snow and there was a storm on the summit. We met a Norwegian climbing and a French team that were bailing due to weather. We walked to Midttoppen(2278m) but realised it was too sketchy and bailed too.
I suggest going from Sn°heimen cabin as its a shorter approach. There is a bus which takes tourist from the main road along the dirt track to the cabin. From here you can chose to either start the traverse from the main summit or in reverse from Vesttoppen(The west top)to the Main summit.
I did a solo fast and light trip from Kongvoll to the summit in 5hrs. So if you are in good shape and start from Sn°heimen cabin, i reckon it could be a 5-8hr round trip.

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