I have a couple of weeks in late Sept and having been to the alps many times but never then I wondered what people think of the current summer and whether there is a chance of reasonable conditions on the higher goulotte style routes in a few weeks time?
Well, judging by the current state of things and weather forecast, summer is fully over and the fall season has started. Lots of snow up high, and ice has been reported to be fairly fat in the tacul triangle (other than chere). Fil a plomb looked surprisingly fat as well, though of course not climbable yet.
I was aiming to head that way at the weekend but the hut guardian lady wouldn't take my booking till later in the week cause she reckons you won't get near it for the time being due to the amount of fresh stuff that's fallen/falling (on what looks like pretty strong winds according to the forecast)
Don't think anyone would be up there just now given the forecast but any first hand knowledge would be appreciated.
Also - are there any mixed routes closer/lower that are likely to have come in?
Well, I was up there on Monday, shooting on Arête à Laurence. Ridiculous amount of snow, most of it windblown, lots of slabs all around. We started a small slide just walking down from Aiguille du Midi. And more has fallen yesterday.
You will need a solid few days of good weather for stuff to stabilise, but after that should be good. I wouldn't get near anything up there before beginning of next week if the forecast is right.