/ High friction belay device?
I climb with my friend who's much, much lighter than me and they use a very old WC variable controller to belay with which makes me a bit nervous sometimes with new thin ropes, so I want to get them a new belay device.
Any suggestions as to a good one, guess one's that grabby/high friction?
Grivel's guide plate has extra knobbles on to increase friction and at Go Outdoors it's a lot cheaper than my petzl.
An Edelrid MegaJul is auto-locking and works well. I really like mine. It's fine with ropes down to 7.8mm (there's also a MicroJul for even thinner ropes).
the best device I've used you can currently buy for <= 8mm ropes is the bugette both grabby and easy enough to pay out and you have the added bonus it is very light and small. The ATC XP Guide is also OK its quite a bit grabbier than the normal ATC XP (which I'm not that happy about being used on much less than 8.5mm).
Secure feeling, and not grabby thanks to the spring.
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