/ High friction belay device?

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JayPee630 - on 11 Sep 2013
Hi,

I climb with my friend who's much, much lighter than me and they use a very old WC variable controller to belay with which makes me a bit nervous sometimes with new thin ropes, so I want to get them a new belay device.

Any suggestions as to a good one, guess one's that grabby/high friction?

Cheers.
fire_munki on 11 Sep 2013
In reply to JayPee630:
Grivel's guide plate has extra knobbles on to increase friction and at Go Outdoors it's a lot cheaper than my petzl.
Coel Hellier - on 11 Sep 2013
In reply to JayPee630:

An Edelrid MegaJul is auto-locking and works well. I really like mine. It's fine with ropes down to 7.8mm (there's also a MicroJul for even thinner ropes).

http://www.edelrid.de/en/sports/products/hardware/mega-jul.html
CurlyStevo - on 11 Sep 2013
In reply to JayPee630:
the best device I've used you can currently buy for <= 8mm ropes is the bugette both grabby and easy enough to pay out and you have the added bonus it is very light and small. The ATC XP Guide is also OK its quite a bit grabbier than the normal ATC XP (which I'm not that happy about being used on much less than 8.5mm).
JayPee630 - on 11 Sep 2013
In reply to CurlyStevo:

Thanks.
ChrisBrooke - on 11 Sep 2013
In reply to JayPee630: The Mammut Smart is worth looking at. I've got one which I'll be asking my wife to use when she belays me on a skinny sports rope.
Timmd on 11 Sep 2013
In reply to JayPee630: Sprung sticht plates were always reassuring for me as a nine stone youth belaying my 13/14 stone dad.

Secure feeling, and not grabby thanks to the spring.
Wiley Coyote - on 11 Sep 2013
In reply to JayPee630: Click up works well on a single rope for the pixy-sized Mrs C when she's belaying my 13.5 stones
adam11 - on 11 Sep 2013
After trying quite a few plates over the years, I still keep going back to my sprung Sticht plate. Really good for abbing on too.
andy.smythe - on 11 Sep 2013
In reply to JayPee630: buggette is brilliant. Think you can get it from joe brown for 15 including a HMS
ads.ukclimbing.com
Toerag - on 11 Sep 2013
In reply to JayPee630: Metolius BRD is good, but probably not designed for ropes <8mm.

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