/ Arms and upper body training - gym-based
I'd welcome any advice on exercises, repetitions etc to target useful muscle groups for climbing-specifics. The aim is to improve my performance on longer, steeper routes.
i would probably go for something like Rippetoes starting strength routine (or one of the variations), add in a sensible amount of cardio and thats all thats needed. if people stay your legs are going to get too big and heavy just kick them around a bit (strong glutes and hamstrings will help you on steep routes)
Frenchies + typewriters, offset pullups, weighted pull up's, hanging leg raises/levers, kettlebell swings, deadlifts, pistol squats, dips.
With the exception of d/lifts and weighted pull ups (max weight), I'd be looking to increase max rep's for all. Maybe 5 set's of 90% 1 set max or 10 set's of 60-75% max reps? Someone will probably vito that but that tends to be how I train when I can't get to a wall/outside.
Most of that stuff is quite demanding on the elbows and shoulders so remember precautionary stretching > remedial stretching.
Hope that helps.
Just do a bit of everything, keep the weight low and highish reps.
Concentrate on your core strength, there's a lot you can do to train your core just by using a mat at the gym.
Try and get the gym to fit a finger board, you never know
If theyve got an air dyn bike, just using your arms is good stuff.
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