/ Arms and upper body training - gym-based

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James Jackson on 12 Sep 2013
So I find myself with the best part of 6 months away from climbing, but with access to decent gym facilities. I'd like to work on upper body strength and endurance training, but being a complete gym mong (I'd much rather go for a run than stalk the gym floor in a dodgy vest) I don't really know where to start.

I'd welcome any advice on exercises, repetitions etc to target useful muscle groups for climbing-specifics. The aim is to improve my performance on longer, steeper routes.

Ta muchly!
lost1977 - on 12 Sep 2013
In reply to James Jackson:

i would probably go for something like Rippetoes starting strength routine (or one of the variations), add in a sensible amount of cardio and thats all thats needed. if people stay your legs are going to get too big and heavy just kick them around a bit (strong glutes and hamstrings will help you on steep routes)
frqnt - on 12 Sep 2013
In reply to James Jackson:

> The aim is to improve my performance on longer, steeper routes.

Frenchies + typewriters, offset pullups, weighted pull up's, hanging leg raises/levers, kettlebell swings, deadlifts, pistol squats, dips.

With the exception of d/lifts and weighted pull ups (max weight), I'd be looking to increase max rep's for all. Maybe 5 set's of 90% 1 set max or 10 set's of 60-75% max reps? Someone will probably vito that but that tends to be how I train when I can't get to a wall/outside.

Most of that stuff is quite demanding on the elbows and shoulders so remember precautionary stretching > remedial stretching.

Hope that helps.
xplorer on 12 Sep 2013
In reply to James Jackson:

Just do a bit of everything, keep the weight low and highish reps.

Concentrate on your core strength, there's a lot you can do to train your core just by using a mat at the gym.

Try and get the gym to fit a finger board, you never know
ice.solo - on 12 Sep 2013
In reply to James Jackson:

If theyve got an air dyn bike, just using your arms is good stuff.

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