UKC

Does anyone know anything about climbing at Cap Frehael in Brittany, either DWS or conventional? It looks like it might be worth a visit.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:CapFrehelLightHouse.jpg
http://www.all-free-photos.com/images/bretagne/PI17271-hr.jpg
http://luddsnextthesea.blogspot.co.uk/2013/05/the-first-two-weeks-of-van-li...
http://www.brodyaga.ru/images/France/Cap%20frehel%202%20brodyaga.ru.jpg
http://www.brodyaga.ru/images/France/Cap%20frehel%203%20brodyaga.ru.jpg

In reply to matt perks:
We (my brother and I) were there last month poking around, there´s a few cliffs on the East side which could be o.k. but in an extremely adventurous way (and that´s from a combined 90 years of adventurous sea cliff climbing)!
The top-out´s are pretty well impossible and the whole area is a nature reserve so bashing stakes in is not going to be approved of. You´d need to get boat access and lower-off.
There are some sport routes on the East side in the old quarry areas as you go toward the cape which looked so vile that we didn´t bother.

I climbed a route on one of the larger faces back in the early eighties. Ok rock up to about fifteen feet below the top where it all turned to rubble. Rain stopped a return visit and my retreat nut is probably just a rusty stain now.

In reply to matt perks: we were at crozon further south (alot further)there was some fairly decent stuff there some easy slabs and some harder seacliff all accessible on foot but not a lot of it.

In reply to matt perks: I visited once, & although there's a lot of rock, much of it looks loose/friable etc and the only recorded routes that I could find were inland a little (see http://www.camptocamp.org/sites/165676/fr/pleherel-plage )

Its also a bird reserve so climbing may even be banned

In reply to matt perks: Interesting site on climbing in Brittany: http://www.krimpadenn.fr/

In reply to testagrigia: not seen that before, but doesn't give much info for Cap Frehel

In reply to matt perks: Cheers for all the info. That leaves me thinking that straight up routes might be better avoided but there does look to be potential for a Magical Mystery Tour experience. After all, the crag above Magical Mystery Tour is not so hot (with the obvious exception of Moonraker of course). I'll put it on my list.