/ NEW ARTICLE: Rock Climbing Basics 7: Cleaning a Sport Anchor
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=5726
I agree. It's a bit complicated.
I'm from Slovenia and common practice in this parts is to clip ourselves into the anchor than tread the double rope thru the anchor, make a double eight knot, clip that to a harnes with a locking biner and than untie the original eight knot. We use the method from the video only if the anchor is too small for the double rope.
> I agree. It's a bit complicated.
> We use the method from the video only if the anchor is too small for the double rope.
Exactly, which is, more often than not, an exception.
Come on guys, it's a perfectly simple and valid method. If you find that complicated god help you if you ever have to set up a less than straightforward trad belay.
She shows the method that works on all anchors so must be learnt first, other anchors can use other methods but the way she shows is the only certain one.
Way to open for numpties getting themselves hurt, after watching 12 how-to videos. Suddenly they know everything.
Maybe I'm over cautious but I certainly would not thread my rope through the actual chain link because of the possibility of the join/burrs cutting the rope
that's the standard way in France but not the BMC one (which sounds the same as the person from Slovenia who posted above).
I've never liked the BMC way, but it's a personal thing. My pals do the Brit way I do the French way, everyone's happy.
I learnt the Brit/BMC way but, as said, it doesn't always work and you end up doing it the way shown in the video.
I think what is important is that the novice learning a method is also taught to understand why you do certain things eg. always have the rope attached to something so there's no rick of dropping it, always have at least two attachment points for redundancy etc, multiple visual/weighted checks.
I learned on my todd with friends my age (13-14). After a few months, my mum asked a person she knew climbed, from her work, to check what we were doing was safe .
He came to the crag and found us untying at the top whilst keeping the rope in our teeth!Instead of telling us off,he let me lead another route whilst he was belaying, at the anchor (they are really incredibly well placed in very compact limestone) he yanked the rope off my mouth and asked me "what now?". A lesson I'll never forget (my teeth still do remember)!
He then explained to us about possible failure of anchors... Most sport climbing will have very sound anchors but you should indeed make sure you've got a system in place.
> Way to open for numpties getting themselves hurt, after watching 12 how-to videos. Suddenly they know everything.
Far better that they know nothing. Obviously.
> that's the standard way in France but not the BMC one (which sounds the same as the person from Slovenia who posted above).
> I've never liked the BMC way, but it's a personal thing. My pals do the Brit way I do the French way, everyone's happy.
Not sure that it is a 'BMC way'; I've seen the odd Frenchman, and even the odd 'normal' Frenchman, doing the same thing. But it does have the benefit of being a wee bit quicker as you effectively miss out one element of the process. And the simpler the process the less risk of cock up.
Agreed; there are a few lower-offs that do not accept a doubled rope but they are getting fewer; indeed the number of places that provide a clip or a 'pigs tail' of some sort are increasing.
As someone above said - the important thing is to know why you are doing what you are doing and develop the ability to vary what you do to accommodate the odd strangeness.
What I DID struggle with was the title. Saw the news item and had absolutely no idea what 'Cleaning a Sport Anchor' was about.
> What I DID struggle with was the title. Saw the news item and had absolutely no idea what 'Cleaning a Sport Anchor' was about.
Bloody hell could they have not found a crag to film on without loud background road noise!? And please drop the annoying background music as well!
Honest Injun! I'd have understood 'threading a lower-off' or summat but 'cleaning a sport anchor' had me thinking of Vim and Brillo pads.
If they know nothing, they wouldnt be in the situations in the first place.
You would never hire an instructor or guide, then watch him do it once, then leave and go and do it. No, you practice train and consolidate with the correct supervision.
I agree. I clicked on it and watched the vid just to see what it really meant.
> I agree. It's a bit complicated.
> I'm from Slovenia and common practice in this parts is to clip ourselves into the anchor than tread the double rope thru the anchor, make a double eight knot, clip that to a harnes with a locking biner and than untie the original eight knot. We use the method from the video only if the anchor is too small for the double rope.
Thats what we (self + regular partners) us now for preference unless the eyes of the bolts are too small to double through
Obviously it's just one of a number of safe techniques but it is the one that always works and it is safe.
Personally I'd prefer to see this sort of video focus on the why-to rather than how-to but that's how my brain works, I know plenty of other people prefer this instructional style.
Oh and add me to the no idea what 'cleaning a sport anchor' means. I was expecting scrubbing brushes and some heavyweight offshore engineering :)
She didn't even use a locking krab. Instructional vids should at least teach best practice..
Who decided using a locking krab was best practice? Whist I usually use one myself plenty of people don't, and with the redundancy demonstrated in the video there doesn't seem to be any significant increase in risk.
Why on earth would you bother with a locking krab when you have two points of attachment all the time ?
The real danger of learning by the book is that it clearly doesn't teach the underlying principals behind the 'best practices' that enable people to make sensible risk assesments.
Not when she is pulling through the slack she isn't.
You obviously haven't seen it go wrong when locking krabs haven't been used. Unlikely, maybe, but not good when it happens.
There's no right and wrong, there's just being responsible towards new climbers who are more likely to make mistakes... hence locking is better than not.
There is so much wrong with this video it should be taken down
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