/ Quickdraw Carabiner Positions
I can't think of many for and against arguments, I think it's mainly down to personal choice.
I'd like to hear if there are any reasons for opposing gates.
My draws have mostly come opposing so I've changed others and kept them opposing.
It stops the draw from rotating as you climb past it stopping any cross loading or gate/bolt loading problems and the rope should fall down the back bar of the crab rather than the gate in the event of a fall.
Small margins really bt I always try to do it. However in extremis it goes in any old way. Bring clipped in is safer than faffing to get it 100% right and falling off un clipped cos you got too pumped.
There must he something on you tube showing this.
I was once told by a pro that it was the mamba that started the fashion for gates facing opposite ways and when he asked them why they didn't have an answer to why they did it.
My quickdraws / extenders are random. I don't find it a problem
Some of mine are one way, some are the other. Don't think it matters either way.
No idea who this guy is or what his experience is but a quick google put this up at the top. Myth no5 with pics.
Not sure if that was an issue in this case but with opposite gates the top krab is more likely to end up with the notch catching in the hanger if they are opposite.
I find it easier to clip with gate facing away from me - pushing it onto the hanger. If you're to the left of the bolt chances are you will be carrying on to the left so would prefer to have the gate facing to the right. So that works for me.
As for clipping the rope in just get proficient at clipping in all orientations, good skills to have.
You'll find it's not difficult to remove the wire from the quickdraw in this way, which might go some way to answering your question.
I think you're confusing this with back clipping.
I think quickdraws unclipping themselves from wires is very rare in practice.
Opposite ways has the advantage that one can point the upper gate in the direction one is traveling (if climbing diagonally) to make clipping a rather distant bolt easier. Then the lower crab is pointing away from the direction of travel, which minimises the risk of backclipping.
Opposite gives a nice Yin and yang look I find. Probably doesnt matter as I orient the gear Krab according to need.
I'm not saying it couldn't happen, but I have to say it's not something that worries me.
In a trad situation again it varies or depends on each placement. First I consider the carabiner clipped to the gear, place it in the direction in which the gate least likely to open. Then consider the carabiner clipped to the rope, again gate away from direction of climb, in rare situations if this means a risk of the gate opening I may turn it around, (asking myself is the greater risk of opening due to the gate catching on something or the rope unclipping in a fall). On a long extender or not knowing the direction of the route I may clip the "rope" carabiner either way around.
So how do I rack them - I tend to have a mix, but however I have the racked i normally end up rearranging the orientation on some draws as I use them depending on the placement.
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