UKC

Hi,
I'm noticing rack conversations and adverts and advice for alpine routes normally now stating cams of all sizes instead of hexes and rocks.
Personally i'd be thinking that the route might not want my cams, after all it is difficult to know in advance the conditions, at least until you get to beneath it. Don't cams slip in ice?
Obviously they do, but my question is don't they deserve a lower ranking than hexes?

jimb

In reply to 2halfs:

Are you sure they are not adverts for tri-cams?

In reply to 2halfs: Don't do alpine myself but i've often seen Tri-cams mentioned as the ones to use due to them holding better in icey placements way,way better than SLCDs.

In reply to Blue Straggler:

There fixed that for you !

In reply to 2halfs: Quite often on spring/summer alpine ice routes there is a lot of dry rock which will take a cam quite safely. You are quite right in thinking they are less good in icy cracks, where a hex mashed in with a hammer is about as confidence inspiring as it gets.

In reply to 2halfs: Yes, noticed that too. Reasoning is that cams are faster to place for the leader, and then quicker to remove by the second.

In reply to 2halfs: um thanks. I don't think it's tricams but have noticed they are back again.

In reply to 2halfs:

On most routes you can find rock dry enough but on ice yes, cams do slip. The pressure will melt the ice and the cam will pull out.

Tricams and hexes are nice but I like short ice screws, ice hooks and size three peckers more. They will hold where pitons will pull out.