/ cams for icy rock placements?
I'm noticing rack conversations and adverts and advice for alpine routes normally now stating cams of all sizes instead of hexes and rocks.
Personally i'd be thinking that the route might not want my cams, after all it is difficult to know in advance the conditions, at least until you get to beneath it. Don't cams slip in ice?
Obviously they do, but my question is don't they deserve a lower ranking than hexes?
Are you sure they are not adverts for tri-cams?
> Are you sure you're not the advert for tri-cams?
On most routes you can find rock dry enough but on ice yes, cams do slip. The pressure will melt the ice and the cam will pull out.
Tricams and hexes are nice but I like short ice screws, ice hooks and size three peckers more. They will hold where pitons will pull out.
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