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Things I know and indoor grades

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Hello.

What indoor boulder grade should I be able to climb if I know movement, body positioning and coordination, route reading and route selection and breathing?

My technique consists of smearing, hooking, bridging, rockovers, palming, drop knees and I am flexible and strong.

Bye

Savvas

 humptydumpty 19 Sep 2013
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Need more information to answer this.

* what is your pinch strength? (please answer in Pascals)
* how rough is the skin on your fingers and hands? (please answer in Newtons per Newton for skin on Westcountry granite - this is the UK standard)
 GridNorth 19 Sep 2013
In reply to Mountain Spirit: You seem to be looking for easy answers. There are none. Only you can know the answer to this one. What do you mean by "know"? I "know" about several yoga positions but doing them is another thing altogether. All of these things help and the better you are at them the better you are likely to climb. Then of course there is the mental aspect which is a different thing altogether. Not just having the will power to persist but also the courage to see things through. In trad climbing that's a far harder obstacle to overcome.
 JLS 19 Sep 2013
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

>"smearing, hooking, bridging, rockovers, palming, drop knees and I am flexible and strong"

I'm not very flexible and not too great at drop knees - I can do V5. With your two extra skills you should be able to do V7.

 ripper 19 Sep 2013
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
There are only two grades:
1. You can climb it
2. You can't climb it
You should be able to climb anything in grade 1.

In reply to humptydumpty:

Hello.

I do not know what is my pinch strength and skin roughness as I have never had them measured.

I can hold onto any hold - crimp, undercut, sloper, sidepull, gaston - of any size.

Bye

Savvas
In reply to GridNorth:

Thanks for your reply.

I try to practice all these things when I climb.
 GridNorth 19 Sep 2013
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
> (In reply to GridNorth)
>
> Thanks for your reply.
>
> I try to practice all these things when I climb.

Don't we all? ;-0
 drolex 19 Sep 2013
In reply to Mountain Spirit: Take the square root of the number of pull-ups you can do, add the cubic root of the number of push-ups you can do. That will give you the grade number.

For the letter, see how long you need to run 10k:
- 40 min and less -> c
- between 40 and 50 min -> b
- 50 min+ -> c

For +/- I have to check my formulas but I think it has something to do with the brand of your shoes.

 CurlyStevo 19 Sep 2013
In reply to Mountain Spirit: Hi Savas, There is no boulder grade you should be able to climb, there is only the ones you have climbed. I would say you should be able to boulder to the same level as your hardest complete boulder problem you have done recently in one go without falling or resting.

Later on, Stevo
In reply to JLS:

Hello.

V7 sounds good to me.

I am flexible but my flexibility needs improving when it comes to the hips.

Bye

In reply to CurlyStevo:

Hello.

I read V6 on Robbie Phillips ukc articles on how to be a better when it come to technique.

Bye

Sav

 humptydumpty 19 Sep 2013
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
> (In reply to humptydumpty)
>
> Hello.
>
> I do not know what is my pinch strength and skin roughness as I have never had them measured.

This is disappointing. Most serious boulderers I know get this checked out pretty regularly.


> I can hold onto any hold - crimp, undercut, sloper, sidepull, gaston - of any size.

This suggests an infinite pinch strength and manual friction. This is a very good starting point for bouldering - if you can also do at least three consecutive pull-ups, you can climb any normal boulder problem. If you want to highball stuff, you'll need to do seven pull-ups in a row.
 seankenny 19 Sep 2013
In reply to humptydumpty:
> If you want to highball stuff, you'll need to do eight pull-ups in a row.

Corrected that for you.
 Bulls Crack 19 Sep 2013
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
> (In reply to humptydumpty)
>
> Hello.
>
> I do not know what is my pinch strength and skin roughness as I have never had them measured.
>
> I can hold onto any hold - crimp, undercut, sloper, sidepull, gaston - of any size.
>
With your feet on or off the floor?

 seankenny 20 Sep 2013
In reply to Bulls Crack:
> (In reply to Mountain Spirit)
> [...]
> With your feet on or off the floor?

As Sawas knows, holding any size of hold is like making love to a beautiful woman...
 GrahamD 20 Sep 2013
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

It will depend on the wall. One wall's V0 is another wall's V4
 Durbs 20 Sep 2013
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Indoor (and outdoor...) grades vary massively between centres.
Craggy Island, I struggle to get up a 6b. White Spider, nearly flashed a 7a.
There's no set grade you should be able to climb.

Just get up what you can, and try and get up those you can't.
 Oceanrower 20 Sep 2013
In reply to ripper:
> (In reply to Mountain Spirit)
> There are only two grades:
> 1. You can climb it
> 2. You can't climb it
> You should be able to climb anything in grade 1.

I think you'll find there's another one.

3. You can't climb it YET!
 Vybz 20 Sep 2013
In reply to Oceanrower:

1. You can climb it
2. You can't climb it YET!
FTFY
In reply to humptydumpty:

Hello.

I managed 8 pull ups consecutively one time.

Where I can get those measurements taken?

Bye

Savvas
In reply to Durbs:

Hello Durbs.

Very true.

Don't those centres use different systems?

Craggy use Font grades whilst White Spider uses Heuco (V) grades?

It also depends on the setter aswell!

Bye

Savvas
 dale1968 20 Sep 2013
In reply to Mountain Spirit: 8 pull ups isn't many...
In reply to Bulls Crack:

Hello Bulls Crack.

On the floor.

I think I can do of the floor to!

Bye

Savvas
In reply to dale1968:

I think it is my weight that is holding my max pull ups back!

Bye

Savvas
 CurlyStevo 20 Sep 2013
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
What is the hardest complete boulder problem you have done recently in one go without falling or resting.
 alooker 20 Sep 2013
In reply to Durbs: if you're talking about bouldering, the routes under the cave are sport grades, so a 7a under there isn't 7A.

Ignore me if you're talking about route grades!
In reply to Mountain Spirit: Some valid formulas here for working out max grades but everyone seems to have forgotten the Naze Theory whereby you measure your height and subtract 1/5 of a grade for every inch under 5' 11". This will give you a more accurate estimate of the grade you should be climbing.
I thought this was taught to everyone when they first started climbing? But I guess applying it automatically becomes such second nature that people forget to mention it.
 sebbo 20 Sep 2013
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

How difficult was it to master the technique of breathing?
Any tips you can offer would be really appreciated.
I've still not determined what grade I can climb, I keep passing out before reaching the top
 humptydumpty 20 Sep 2013
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Ask at your local gym. If they don't have the equipment on-site, they can probably point you in the right direction.
 wme 20 Sep 2013
In reply to 2PointO:

Don't forget that being left handed can affect the Torsten constant in the Theory.
 Ramblin dave 20 Sep 2013
In reply to humptydumpty:
> (In reply to Mountain Spirit)
>
> Ask at your local gym. If they don't have the equipment on-site, they can probably point you in the right direction.

The particular piece of kit you want to use is called a "long weight". Make sure you ask for it specifically to avoid getting fobbed off.
 CurlyStevo 20 Sep 2013
In reply to Ramblin dave:
The thing is this is all very funny but everyone is different and Mountain Spirits question was serious.
 drolex 20 Sep 2013
In reply to wme: No. It has been famously proven false by Gudmunsson et al. in 2004 during the Gottingen/Prague controversy. Are you a troll?

However he recommends to take into account the 2D/4D ratio and the rigidity of your snapback cap.
 drolex 20 Sep 2013
In reply to CurlyStevo: Well, the serious answers have been given: try and you will know. Other than that I don't see anything sensible to say.
 wme 20 Sep 2013
In reply to drolex:

Gudmunsson failed to take into account south facing crags.
In reply to 2PointO:

> (In reply to Mountain Spirit) Some valid formulas here for working out max grades but everyone seems to have forgotten the Naze Theory whereby you measure your height and subtract 1/5 of a grade for every inch under 5' 11".
Sorry, but the Naze theory was comprehensively discredited by a landmark study observing 4 foot tall ten year olds climbing 3 grades harder than the adults.

Subsequently my own research established the following universal formula (for V grades):

Grade you should be climbing = grade you are actually climbing + 1

Research is ongoing to extend this formula to Font grades.
In reply to sebbo:

Hello sebbo.

I just started taking in deep breaths when I do big moves and try to get legs up high.

It is a technique that Neil Gresham taught me at a 1:1 coaching.

Bye

Savvas
In reply to JLS:

I forgot flagging, laybacks and footswaps.

Bye

Savvas
In reply to GridNorth:

Hello GridNorth.

These are things I have been taught by proclimbers in 1:1 sessions.

What about sport climbing - how hard is it an obstacle to overcome in that?

Are you kinda comparing bouldering to trad?

You forgot to mention sport climbing!

Bye

Savvas
The_JT 21 Sep 2013
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

>
> I can hold onto any hold - crimp, undercut, sloper, sidepull, gaston - of any size.
>

If true, you should be bouldering 8B. But, I think it's probably not true.
 BAdhoc 21 Sep 2013
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Depends on whose setting the route.
 dutybooty 21 Sep 2013
In reply to Mountain Spirit: This mountain spirit guy irregularly posts and only ridiculous questions. Has nobody really caught onto the troll yet?

Suggest he's probably a regular poster on here under another name
 tlm 21 Sep 2013
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

> I know ...breathing

Just as well.
 tlm 21 Sep 2013
In reply to dutybooty:
> (In reply to Mountain Spirit) This mountain spirit guy irregularly posts and only ridiculous questions. Has nobody really caught onto the troll yet?

ukc is for entertainment and Mountain Spirit provides us with that. I know that Matt Smith isn't really a time lord, but it doesn't stop me from enjoying Dr. Who.
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
> (In reply to sebbo)
>
> I just started taking in deep breaths when I do big moves and try to get legs up high.

... ah yes, the choirboy technique.


 JLS 21 Sep 2013
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
> (In reply to JLS)
>
> I forgot flagging, laybacks and footswaps.
>
> Bye
>
> Savvas

This is worrying.

If your memory is not so good then lightning fast beta recall may be beyond you. I fear that the promise of a career as a professional climber, which I foresaw laid out before you, is perhaps now no more likely than a very unlikely thing happening.
 Oceanrower 21 Sep 2013
In reply to dutybooty: I can assure you, hard to believe I know, but the guy really isn't a troll.

Just this once, can UKC be nice please!
 nasher47 21 Sep 2013
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Good work everyone some excellent, scientifically backed up stuff there.

Savvas, you really ought not worry about what grade you should be climbing and focus on enjoying what you are climbing and work towards the things your not.
In reply to JLS:

Hello JLS.

Why is it worrying?

I have an amazing memory.

Why do you see me as a professional climber?

I thought you needed to start out very young to do that!

Bye

Savvas
In reply to nasher47:

Hello nasher47

I like to climb steep or vertical hard problems.

I am not that keen on slabs though!

Bye

Savvas
 Yanis Nayu 21 Sep 2013
In reply to tom_in_edinburgh:
> (In reply to Mountain Spirit)
> [...]
>
> ... ah yes, the choirboy technique.

Brilliant!
In reply to Beckyi:

Hello.

I agree with you 100%!

Bye

Sav

 seankenny 21 Sep 2013
In reply to drolex:
>

> However he recommends to take into account the 2D/4D ratio and the rigidity of your snapback cap.

Wow! I'd never seen this before, but now you bring it to my attention, it's just so, well, so... right.

Thanks drolex.
 nasher47 21 Sep 2013
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

I didn't ask, but thanks!?
luke obrien 21 Sep 2013
In reply to Mountain Spirit: the passage to V8s comes with the art of 1 hand clapping, master that and all other technique becomes irrelevant
In reply to GrahamD:

Hello GrahamD.

I climb at many walls.

It does depend on the wall alot.

That is like saying the uk tech 5a is the same as uk tech 6b!

V0 is approximately equal to 5a and V4 is approximately equal to 6b!

Bye

Savvas
In reply to luke obrien:

Hello Luke.

Why V8?

Is that what you need to climb above F7b and E5?

Bye

Savvas
 sebbo 24 Sep 2013
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Savvas you whacky cat - try this, it's what just about every novice climber I know has done (including me):-

Step 1 - climb a route you know you can climb without falling off.
Step 2 - climb a route one grade harder.
Repeat step 2 until you fail to complete a climb.
Make a note of the grade of the hardest climb you succeeded at.

Repeat entire process next session ensuring you try different types of climb/wall type/holds if possible.

Take average grade of hardest climbs ticked over multiple sessions.
This is your approximate grade.

Climb lots of climbs at this grade and 1 or 2 grades above.
You should over time notice a creep into these higher grades - adjust approximate grade accordingly.

Enjoy!
 CurlyStevo 24 Sep 2013
In reply to sebbo:
Savvas please listen to what Sebbo posted, all this obsessing over grades in nonsense.Y ou can basically climb what you can climb, comparing different climbing styles and guessing grades from moves you can do is all meaningless.

Just enjoy your climbing, climb mostly routes / problems you can complete that session. Take a note of what grades you can normally climb first go, also those grades you can sometimes get after a few tries, and finally those grades you rarely/never get up. Try not to concentrate too much of your sessions on climbs you can not complete.

For example:
I can normally climb F6a+ first go, F6b / F6b+ may go after a few goes, F6c I can only very rarely do and harder than this is too hard for me! I know this from trying routes not from guessing
 Dave Garnett 24 Sep 2013
In reply to luke obrien:
> (In reply to Mountain Spirit) the passage to V8s comes with the art of 1 hand clapping, master that and all other technique becomes irrelevant

Unless it's jamming, in which case all you need is to be able to get up Ramshaw HVS.
 jkarran 24 Sep 2013
In reply to dutybooty:

> This mountain spirit guy irregularly posts and only ridiculous questions. Has nobody really caught onto the troll yet?
> Suggest he's probably a regular poster on here under another name

He's a real person, keen and a regular poster under this (MS) name. If his questions sometimes seem odd I think it's just a matter of perspective.

Mountain Spirit: There is no upper or lower limit to what you should be able to climb knowing what you know. You just need to try hard and see where you are at. As you apply those skills to real problems you'll get better at them, better at choosing the right skill/move and better at climbing generally, the grades of problems you complete will gradually rise.

Start with easy stuff you can do first go then gradually try harder stuff. Personally I find problems that I can do in a few tries give a nice balance between learning, physical work and frustration. Long hard projects don't generally get me much higher grades and they can get frustrating.

jk
 Jamie B 24 Sep 2013
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Agree with what's been said; just go climbing and enjoy it irrespective of grades.
 CurlyStevo 24 Sep 2013
In reply to jkarran:
"Personally I find problems that I can do in a few tries give a nice balance between learning, physical work and frustration. Long hard projects don't generally get me much higher grades and they can get frustrating."

I agree with this.

Savvas I think you will get much more out of your climbing if you take heed of this.

I think you are concentrating far too much on doing a few of the moves on problems that are much too hard for you that you never complete. I think you'll enjoy it more and improve more quickly if 90% of your climbing you try and concentrate on routes you complete that session within a few tries.

Reading books will only take you so far, it won't make you a good climber. Also doing problems that are too hard for you will probably hinder your progress you will learn faster doing mostly problems you can complete within one session. I would say about 25% - 50% of your climbing should be doing problems/routes you can do first go then about the same again doing problems you can do within a few goes and then the remainder of your time trying routes just 1-2 grades harder than the ones you can normally do within a few tries.
In reply to CurlyStevo:

Hello.

I have not mentioned grades in my facebook feed and twitter updates.

This is all too much to take in.

Bye

Sav



In reply to sebbo:

Hello.

This is alot to take in.

I will try and remember it.

Bye

Savvas
In reply to jkarran:

Hello jk.

Thanks for that.

I think I am not trying my hardest as I keep forgetting aspects especially breathing.

By real problems do you mean outdoor problems like in Font, Peaks, the place near Ariege that begind with T?

Bye

Savvas
 CurlyStevo 24 Sep 2013
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
I think he just means that its the application of the knowledge that you have gained from reading the books that counts not the knowledge its self.

For example you can read about heal hooking as much as you want but until you start doing it on actual climbs (indoors or out) you're not really able to heal hook and the more you do it the better at it you will become. With climbing you never really stop learning and most that learning occurs from climbing not from reading books.
 CurlyStevo 24 Sep 2013
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
> (In reply to CurlyStevo)
>
> Hello.
>
> I have not mentioned grades in my facebook feed and twitter updates.
>
> This is all too much to take in.
>
> Bye
>
> Sav

In reply to Mountain Spirit:
Savvas you have mentioned grades on facebook both publicly and privately as well as quite regularly on UKC.

Its really not much to take in. Just go climbing and enjoy it, try and stop concentrating on grades and try and climb climbs you can complete within a few tries. Why not make a rule if you can't complete a boulder problem within 10 goes try a different climb 1 grade easier, if you can't do that within 10 goes try a different climb 1 grade easier etc.

Once you are more regularly completing climbs you'll know what grades you can climb based on what you have done.

In reply to CurlyStevo:

Hello.

Sometimes I forget what I know because I do not practice it.

I need to get out more I think - even outdoor bouldering!

Even Gaz Parry is still learning!

The thing is I do not have any climbing partners.

Bye

Sav
In reply to CurlyStevo:

When did I mention them on my feeds.

I have mentioned them to you privately and a few times once or twice on ukc lately.

Bye

SavvaS

 CurlyStevo 24 Sep 2013
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
This best practice for climbing IS climbing not practising technique.

Whilst there is a place improving by learning new techniques in a very specific way, for most climbers this is a very small part of what they do.
 CurlyStevo 24 Sep 2013
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
> (In reply to CurlyStevo)
>
> When did I mention them on my feeds.
>
> I have mentioned them to you privately and a few times once or twice on ukc lately.
>
> Bye
>
> SavvaS

lets chat about this on FB
In reply to CurlyStevo:

Hello.

What is wrong with good old fashioned e-mail?

My facebook keeps getting hacked into!

Why do you like fb so much?

Linked In is more secure I think!

Bye

Sav

 CurlyStevo 24 Sep 2013
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
Have you tried changing your fb password?
In reply to CurlyStevo:

Hello

I have just changed it.

Bye

 Kirill 24 Sep 2013
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Hi Savvas, I noticed many times you mention that you have no climbing partners. Have you tried to join your local climbing club? There are several in London. Failing that, take up bouldering. You don't need partners for that. Most climbing walls in London have bouldering areas as well as dedicated bouldering walls. Of course you could also go bouldering outdoors, but you will need to buy a bouldering mat. Buy the biggest and the thickest you can afford. The nearest bouldering area is Southern Sandstone, but the Peak District is also possible for a day trip from London. There are climbing/bouldering guidebooks available for both Southern Sandstone and the Peak District.

Good luck
Kirill
In reply to Kirill:

Hi Kirill.

I have tried and went on one hiking meet.

They then refunded me as had no experience and they had no one to deal with disabilities then I tried to join again for a second time but they rejected me again.

I think the bouldering outdoor idea is a great one and I have thought of getting a mat.

I do boulder a lot indoors but people usually come with friends to encourage each other and to motivate them.

I would love to go to The Peaks to boulder and also North Wales and Portland has bouldering areas.

Bouldering outdoors is a great way to getting used to being on real rock.

Bye

Savvas


 Jamie B 24 Sep 2013
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

I suspect that your needs are quite complex and that nobody will be able to help you much through a website forum. You need contact with real climbers, ideally instructors so that somebody with experience can get a feel for what will work for you. Any London-based samaritans out there?
 Kirill 24 Sep 2013
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Hi Savvas

Sorry to hear about your negative experience with a club. But there more than one club in London. You could try another, perhaps they'd be more understanding.

It's true that many people like to boulder with friends, but not all. Some people actually prefer to boulder on their own.

Do you drive? Have a car? If yes than nothing stops you from going to the Peak, but even if you don't perhaps there's someone who could drive you and accompany you even if they are not climbers themselves. The Peak district is lovely for walking, cycling and many other activities for them to enjoy while you try some bouldering. Burbage South is a good spot to start.

Kirill
In reply to Jamie B:

I know some instructors mainly through facebook and Linked Inn.

James McHaffie like to communicate with me.

My club does not have instructors and I am not sue if they have applied for the new BMC grant to get some money to pay for an instructor to teach people or to come along on trips.

Bye

Savvas

In reply to Kirill:

Hello Kirill.

I know there is more than one club as I see climbing/mountaineering clubs advertised at the variuos walls I climb at.

Sadly I do not drive or have a car but I have a Disabled Persons RailCard which gives me a discount on rail travel from London to anywhere in the UK and i also have a Freedom Pass which in London which gives me free travel in London and in other cities.

Which boulderimg mat or mats do you recommend?

Some people say Moon ones whilst others suggest AlpKit ones as I am geeting one for my birthday!

Burbage South I know a little about - I think that is where Equilibrium and Partion Shot are!

Bye

Savvas


 nufkin 25 Sep 2013
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

> I have a Disabled Persons RailCard which gives me a discount on rail travel from London to anywhere in the UK and i also have a Freedom Pass which in London which gives me free travel in London and in other cities.

Well that would make a trip to Southern Sandstone pretty straightforward, as you probably know already, and if the Freedom pass is good outside of urban areas as well there's no reason the Peak, or even Cornwall, Wales or Scotland, couldn't be possible

> Which boulderimg mat or mats do you recommend?

> Some people say Moon ones whilst others suggest AlpKit ones as I am geeting one for my birthday!

Just to make things more complicated, the DMM Highballs are worth a look too. Fairly pricey, but good quality. A good combo if someone else is paying
 Kirill 25 Sep 2013
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Hi Savvas

I meant Burbage South Boulders, you can find out about that area from "Burbage Millstone and Beyond" guidebook http://www.bmcshop.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=357_463&products_id=557...

How to get there from London by public transport, I am not sure, as I haven't done it myself. I guess, train to Sheffield and then bus to Fox House. But perhaps someone here could give you more detailed advice on that.

Southern Sandstone is probably easier to get to from London. Just take the train to Eridge. You will need Southern Sandstone guidebook http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/guidebooks/ci-se-sandstone.html

Alpkit "Project" looks good to me as well as Moon "Saturn". Dmm Highball mentioned above also looks good. Whichever brand you go for make sure you get the biggest one they offer, as you wouldn't want to miss it and break your ankle. Better still persuade a friend or a family member to tag along when you go. Even if they don't climb themselves, to keep you company and to give assistance if something goes wrong.

Kirill
In reply to nufkin:

Hello nufkin.

I used it on the buses in The Peak District when I went walking there this February.

I have e-mailed Freedom Pass about the non-urban areas just to make sure - I am not sure if I had to pay some money in the Peak District.

I have just looked into DMM Highballs and I know little bit about them already.

They seem worth the money and are thicker than the Spot 2.

Bye

Savvas

In reply to Kirill:

Hi Kirill.

I know you meant the boulders but I was just saying that there are famous routes there.

Thanks for the links for the guidebooks.

All those mats seem to be very good and long lasting but the Saturn I think is the priciest.

I will see what my climbing club says about there trip to the Peaks this weekend.

I have asked a few friends but one is busy in Cornwall.

Bye

Savvas
There is a simple formula to work this out, I thought everyone knew that.

N(0)= nt/4r2 (zZ)/2K)2 (e2/4x3.14)2 sin((1t/sin )0.5)

Where N = how hard you can pull and n = who is watching and e relates to the proportional size of your chalk bag
 dutybooty 25 Sep 2013
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Hi mate,

I have the saturn, its a brilliant mat. It is pricey though. I'm way too disorganised to organise postage etc for it, but if you ever make it up to the peak I'd drop it off at a crag for you. Good condition and I'll do you a very good deal on it.

Offer is open to any other BEGINNERS that read this.

As to the original question, climbings very personal, I know lots of things but I'm just not a very good rock climber. Don't stress about grades, you'll progress naturally, just enjoy yourself.

Ash
In reply to blackmountainbiker:

Hello Gary.

What about the rest of the letters?

How do I know how hard I can pull?

I had a chalk bag but I lost it.

I usually climb alone.

I didn't know that formula and it does not look simple.

Bye

Savvas
In reply to dutybooty:

Hi pal.

I am not sure when or if I am going to the Peaks but I will your offer in mind.

What do you mean by naturally?

Bye

Sav
 dutybooty 25 Sep 2013
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Hi,

just as you climb more, you will improve. Enjoy the journey. Its not a race to 9a!

Ash
 deacondeacon 26 Sep 2013
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
Hey Savvas, Its the rockfax bouldering event at Burbage South this weekend so you wouldn't need your own pad.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/news.php?id=5782

You can get a train to sheffield, then a bus to The Fox House (a local pub) and walk to the bouldering.
 humptydumpty 26 Sep 2013
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
> (In reply to garycrocker)
>
> What about the rest of the letters?
>
> How do I know how hard I can pull?


Hi Savvas,

We were joking about formulas. The only way to find out how hard you can climb is through experience. Also, grades are not an exact science so at different walls and different places outdoors you will find the grades can feel different. Once you climb more outdoors you will find that different rock types will feel different too, and you might find some types easier than others.

As others have said above, grades are really just for your information - so you don't waste time on things which are too easy, so you don't endanger yourself on things which are too difficult, and so you can challenge yourself to get better. Don't stress to much about climbing harder than other people, and most importantly, enjoy yourself!
In reply to dutybooty:

Hi dutybooty.

Thanks.

Why 9a?

Bye
In reply to deacondeacon:

Hey Deacon.

I am not sure if I am going but I will keep it in mind?

I know get a train from Kings Cross/Saint Pancreas International to Sheffield.

If I do go I will have to check the buses in Sheffield on the internet.

Have a great time in Cornwall!

Bye

Savvas
In reply to humptydumpty:

Hello.

In was not sure if you were joking or not.

I know indoor walls are different as I climb at several in London.

Bye

Savvas
 dutybooty 26 Sep 2013
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Hey,

I put 9a as I just picked a random high grade. The basis of my posts to you is just enjoy climbing and don't worry much about grades, you'll improve as you continue to climb.

Ash
 Choss 26 Sep 2013
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

"All these numbers, all this talk about what grade they are, as if it matters. Why does nobody talk about quality anymore. Why dont they realise just how good it is to be out here...?"

"The best training was to go to the pub, drink 5 pints of beer and talk about climbing"

Both quotes... Ron Fawcett
In reply to Choss:

Hello Closs.

If you drink 5 pints of beer then climb you will get screwed.

I read an article in climb magazine thats says alcohol reduces your endurance, removes vital nutrients and water as it is a diuretic and also interferes with balance and coordination.

This is the guy who put Strawberries and Lord of The Flies two contrasting routes.

Bye

Savvas
 Choss 26 Sep 2013
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Dont believe articles about drinking and performance. While we're there, Dont believe anything about performance.

It's all about the craic. Anyone who tells you otherwise is lost! Just enjoy.
 jymbob 27 Sep 2013
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
> (In reply to GrahamD)
>
> Hello GrahamD.
>
> I climb at many walls.
>
> It does depend on the wall alot.

Ain't that the truth? Those wall alots are a tough bunch. I'm sure they conspire against me wherever I go.

For more information on Alots and why they're better than you at everything:
http://hyperboleandahalf.blogspot.co.uk/2010/04/alot-is-better-than-you-at-...

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