/ Quick draw safety
just watched a wild country video about clipping QDs (it was an American production.)
In the video it states that the two crabs making up the draw should have both gates facing the same direction because its the safest option.
Ive always thought they should be in the opposite direction to each other.
Any thoughts or reasons any one know?
If we take the notion that we clip like in this picture:
With the rope biner having the gate on the right if the rope is going to the left, imagine a more extreme situation whereby that rope went at a bigger angle to the left, then went under tension, in that configuration the gate is a long way from the bolt, which is good. You don't want the bolt on the gate.
Seems modern thought is to have them facing the same way, that's what I do, partly because thats just how they come. There's a stack of people that oppose them, and they're all fine...
If you're using removable hangers and wiregates, you spend a bit more time thinking about this. (Some people go as far as flipping the top biner, http://www.pointperp.com/Images/IMG_5420_clipped_carrot_bolt.jpg )
Yes, I must admit I watched that out of interest and thought pretty much the same. I've always set mine up with most gates in opposition as it were, though I have a few facing the same way (see below) However, the two things you are trying to do are 1) have the gates away from the rock, and 2) ensure the rope comes out of the front of the krab with the gate facing away from the direction you are climbing. The first to lessen risk of the gate being forced open, weakening the krab. The second to lessen the risk of it unclipping in the event of a fall. Maybe, the 'both gates in same orientation' method of setting up your draws increases the chance of getting 1) correct but it doesn't help with 2). As I say, whilst I tend to set mine up in opposition, I normally have a few the other way so I can use one of those if needed to get 2) right.
I suspect it may be that on a clip up with opposing gates, if you get 2) right, you run more of a risk of the bolt interfering with the gate of the top krab and it unclipping from the bolt end. I was thinking more of trad really.
As I say, for trad, I think opposite facing is best.
For sports, I reckon facing the same way is likely to be best.
For sport and trad I've always had them facing the same way. It's certainly quicker and safer for sport. For trad I now use the same technique but in the past we just use slings and crabs and anything that protected you was good!
Elsewhere on the site
Pete Whittaker has flashed the 32 pitch route Freerider 5.12d on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley over three days,... Read more
Every so often you meet someone in climbing that makes you take a step back. Someone with a fire in their eye, passion in... Read more
Nuts, wires, stoppers, chocks, wedges, whatever you want to call them, have been around for a long time. Initially made from... Read more
A pack designed for year-round ascents. Super light, flexible, strippable and seasonally versatile you can rely on this perennial... Read more
Manchester Climbing Centre is showing Reel Rock’s Valley Uprising on Tuesday the 11th of November at... Read more