/ 10 Best Scottish Cliffs

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Michael Gordon - on 22 Sep 2013
Thoughts?

1. Slime Wall
2. Etive Slabs
3. Carn Dearg Buttress
4. Shelter Stone Crag
5. Creag an Dubh Loch
6. Coire Mhic Fhearchair
7. Carnmore Crag
8. Sron na Ciche
9. Dun Mingulay
10. ?
Mark Collins - on 22 Sep 2013
In reply to Michael Gordon: I think there's too many, perhaps if they could be broken down into rock type and angle or something. Best Torridonian sandstone, best Devonian sandstone, best granite, etc.

Either way, should Rora Head be on your list?
pamph - on 22 Sep 2013
In reply to Michael Gordon:
> Thoughts?
>
> 1. Slime Wall
> 2. Etive Slabs
> 3. Carn Dearg Buttress
> 4. Shelter Stone Crag
> 5. Creag an Dubh Loch
> 6. Coire Mhic Fhearchair
> 7. Carnmore Crag
> 8. Sron na Ciche
> 9. Dun Mingulay
> 10. ?


10. Crag 'X' on the NE coast. I'm still developing it......;-)
Eric9Points - on 22 Sep 2013
In reply to Michael Gordon:

E Buttrress?

Rannoch Wall?

Michael Gordon - on 22 Sep 2013
In reply to Mark Collins:
> (In reply to Michael Gordon)
>
> Either way, should Rora Head be on your list?

Possibly. Pity most of it's too hard for me!
Michael Gordon - on 22 Sep 2013
In reply to Eric9Points:

I thought about 'Aonach Dubh, various aspects' but that seemed like cheating.
Mark Collins - on 22 Sep 2013
In reply to Michael Gordon:
> (In reply to Mark Collins)
> [...]
>
> Possibly. Pity most of it's too hard for me!

...and me. Looks nice though :-)
Dave Kerr - on 22 Sep 2013
In reply to Michael Gordon:

Creag Dubh?
Dave Kerr - on 22 Sep 2013
In reply to Dave Kerr:
> (In reply to Michael Gordon)
>
> Creag Dubh?

Or Garbh Bheinn?
Robert Durran - on 22 Sep 2013
In reply to Michael Gordon:

Church Door.
Pink/Grey wall (Pabbay)
Michael Gordon - on 22 Sep 2013
In reply to Dave Kerr:

I like Creag Dubh, not sure about top 10 though. Garbh Bheinn looks great (still to visit)
Michael Gordon - on 23 Sep 2013
In reply to Robert Durran:

yes if/when I get more solid on E3 I'll have to head up to Church Door!
Steve Crowe - on 23 Sep 2013
In reply to Michael Gordon:


10. Crag X up in the Far NW Highlands
Adam Lincoln - on 23 Sep 2013
In reply to Steve Crowe:
> (In reply to Michael Gordon)
>
>
> 10. Crag X up in the Far NW Highlands

Is that Super Crag?

Andy Cloquet - on 23 Sep 2013
In reply to Michael Gordon: NE Buttress round to Gardyloo Gully on The Ben, is one immense spread of mountain cliff with a myriad of routes twisting their way through ground which mere stumblies like me can access.
Fiend - on 23 Sep 2013
In reply to Michael Gordon:

1. Ruthven boulder
2. Ship boulder
3. Farr boulder
4. Eagle boulder
5. Big Grey boulder
6. BNI boulder
7. Heather Hat boulder
8. Sheep Pen boulder
9. Spanking The Monkey boulder
10. ?
Fiend - on 23 Sep 2013
In reply to Michael Gordon:

1. Ardmair
2. Neist
3. Creag Dubh
4. Wave Buttress
5. Rosehearty
6. Reiff Leaning Block
7. Seanna Mheallan
8. Sheigra
9. Loch Tollaidh
10. Sarclett
Fiend - on 23 Sep 2013
In reply to Michael Gordon:

1. Moy Rock
2. The Camel
3. Goat Crag
4. Creag Nan Luch
5. Weem
6. - 10. ?
Smelly Fox - on 24 Sep 2013
In reply to Michael Gordon:
Good thread!

Tope 10 that I've visited for rock climbing only, in no particular order...

1. Pink / Grey Wall - Pabbay
2. Creag an Dubh Loch
3. Shelter Stone Crag
4. Number 1 Buttress - Stac Pollaidh
5. Carn Dearg buttress - Ben Nevis
6. Far East Wall - Ben Eighe
7. Rora Head - Hoy
8. Big Butress, South East Face - Sarclet
9. Creag Dubh
10. Red Hole - South Cove
Michael Gordon - on 24 Sep 2013
In reply to Fiend:

No Diabaig?
Michael Gordon - on 24 Sep 2013
In reply to Steve Crowe:
> (In reply to Michael Gordon)
>
>
> 10. Crag X up in the Far NW Highlands

There must be loads of those!
Michael Gordon - on 24 Sep 2013
In reply to Andy Cloquet:

Good shout, though I always think of that area as being more of a winter venue
Jamie B - on 24 Sep 2013
In reply to Michael Gordon:

Is Coire Mhic Fhearchair a cliff? Maybe narrow it down to the Eastern Ramparts. If we're talking big crags as opposed to outcrops or cragging areas I'd make a vote for Creag Ghlas in Strathconnon and maybe Kilt Rock and/or Sron Ulladale
Robert Durran - on 24 Sep 2013
In reply to Jamie B:
> (In reply to Michael Gordon)
>
> Is Coire Mhic Fhearchair a cliff? Maybe narrow it down to the Eastern Ramparts.

Surely Far East Wall ahead of Eastern Ramparts?
Jamie B - on 24 Sep 2013
In reply to Andy Cloquet:

> NE Buttress round to Gardyloo Gully on The Ben, is one immense spread of mountain cliff with a myriad of routes twisting their way through ground which mere stumblies like me can access.

A myriad? There are about 4 summer routes worth doing! Not disputing the scale though but as a climber's cliff it wouldn't make my top 10 (or even top 20)

Another biggie I forgot is the South Wall on Garbheinn, and although you've got Slime Wall in there it seems difficult to leave out Rannoch Wall.

Jamie B - on 24 Sep 2013
In reply to Robert Durran:

> Surely Far East Wall ahead of Eastern Ramparts?

I think that's what I meant to say, but having never climbed on either I'm speculating. The rock routes I've done on the Triple Buttresses have been long but not exactly classic!
Steve Crowe - on 24 Sep 2013
In reply to Michael Gordon:

> There must be loads of those!

and the best one deserves to be included on your list.

d conacher - on 24 Sep 2013
In reply to Jamie B: if u havent climbed at coire mhic fhearchair u should get yourself up there,its superb,4 pitch routes is hardly craging.
Tim Chappell - on 24 Sep 2013
In reply to Michael Gordon:


For myself, I couldn't possibly leave out Lochnagar, or Skyscraper Buttress on Sgurr Mor nam Fannaich, or Coire Dhorrcaill on Ladhar Bheinn, or Garbh Coire on Braigh Riabhach.
Tim Chappell - on 24 Sep 2013
In reply to Tim Chappell:

...And I like the look of the cliff on Beinn Bhan where the Cioch Nose is--whatever that's called.
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Jamie B - on 24 Sep 2013
In reply to Tim Chappell:

> For myself, I couldn't possibly leave out Lochnagar, or Skyscraper Buttress on Sgurr Mor nam Fannaich, or Coire Dhorrcaill on Ladhar Bheinn, or Garbh Coire on Braigh Riabhach.

All winter cliffs - I think the OP envisaged this as a rock-climbing thread?

Jamie B - on 24 Sep 2013
In reply to Tim Chappell:

> ...And I like the look of the cliff on Beinn Bhan where the Cioch Nose is--whatever that's called.

The Cioch is actually on Sgurr a' Chaorachain, the next Corbett along.
Tim Chappell - on 24 Sep 2013
In reply to Jamie B:


Possibly he did, but he didn't say so... Is it bad of me to take him literally?

:-)


PS One cliff to rule them all: Winter Corrie :-)
Tim Chappell - on 24 Sep 2013
In reply to Jamie B:
> (In reply to Tim Chappell)
>
> [...]
>
> The Cioch is actually on Sgurr a' Chaorachain, the next Corbett along.


So it is. That one, then.
andrew ogilvie - on 24 Sep 2013
In reply to Michael Gordon: I'd like to think that the Sgurr of Eigg, Sron Ulladale and Creag Urbhard are as good as they look...but who knows?
Michael Gordon - on 25 Sep 2013
In reply to Jamie B:

Never been all that impressed with Rannoch Wall. No lines (apart from Agags).
Michael Gordon - on 25 Sep 2013
In reply to Tim Chappell:

I think compiling a winter list would be much more difficult.

If you haven't done Cioch Nose, well you should!
Michael Gordon - on 25 Sep 2013
In reply to andrew ogilvie:
> (In reply to Michael Gordon) I'd like to think that the Sgurr of Eigg, Sron Ulladale and Creag Urbhard are as good as they look...but who knows?

I think Sron Ulladale probably is, but I'll certainly never find out (by any decent route anyway)!
Jamie B - on 25 Sep 2013
In reply to Michael Gordon:

> Never been all that impressed with Rannoch Wall. No lines (apart from Agags).

You have a point there. But it's still an impressive feature and there's some fine climbing on it (albeit of a lineless variety..)

Tim Chappell - on 25 Sep 2013
In reply to Michael Gordon:
> (In reply to Tim Chappell)
>
> I think compiling a winter list would be much more difficult.
>
> If you haven't done Cioch Nose, well you should!


Agreed. When are you free?

Michael Gordon - on 26 Sep 2013
In reply to Tim Chappell:

Not too often at the moment I'm afraid. When I started this thread I thought I'd be doing well to get back to these big summer cliffs again this year.
johncoxmysteriously - on 27 Sep 2013
In reply to Michael Gordon:

There's absolutely no way the Cioch Nose cliff should be in a top ten; the route itself is a pleasant enough scramble, but there's not that much else and the 'crag' is basically just a scrappy piece of rocky hillside.

Your original list looked pretty close to me; as others have said perhaps add Rora/St John's/OMOH (basically all the same cliff). I reckon you can count the Run of the Arrow cliff as part of the ShelterStone and, stretching it rather, Pabbay/Mingulay as all one; they're usually all visited together, after all.

jcm
Michael Gordon - on 27 Sep 2013
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

I'd generally agree, John. I think Cioch Nose is a stunning rock feature and great route but yes it wouldn't be anywhere near top ten in a wealth of good climbing sense.
ScraggyGoat on 27 Sep 2013
In reply to Michael and JamieB

Thank you, for years I couldn't quiet put my finger on why I felt Rannoch lacked something (an admission which no one would say openly , it is after all an immaculate bit of rock, inducing quasi-religious reverence in some), and you've encapsulated in a couple of words........no lines.......


But does that make ' line-up' a climbing oxymoron.............sorry I'll get me coat!
oscaig - on 28 Sep 2013
In reply to Michael Gordon:

My list would look something like:-

1. Diabeg
2. Neist
3. Reiff
4. Sron na Ciche
5. The Cobbler
6. Loch Tollaidh Crags
7. Sheigra
8. Carn Dearg Buttress
9. Carnmore
10. Cir Mhor

Very West and NW centric I'll admit (displays how little climbing I've done in the 'gorms to date). Coming up behind these 'top ten' I'd have the likes of Suidhe Biorach, Garbh Bheinn, Slime Wall, Far East Wall, Gearr Aonach, Aonach Dubh, Sarclet and Meal an Fhir-Eoin/Beag...

Ian
Michael Gordon - on 28 Sep 2013
In reply to oscaig:

Nice list. I think Reiff is as good as anywhere but was trying to restrict it to individual cliffs.
oscaig - on 29 Sep 2013
In reply to Michael Gordon:
Cheers Michael. TBH the same argument would apply to Neist or the Cobbler too but pretty difficult to restrict to individual buttresses rather than climbing areas or hills. Even from a quick think on the subject though it does immediately become apparent how much world class climbing our little country has. Shame we don't often get the weather to get out and get round more of it! :-)

Ian
Robert Durran - on 29 Sep 2013
In reply to oscaig:
> Even from a quick think on the subject though it does immediately become apparent how much world class climbing our little country has. Shame we don't often get the weather to get out and get round more of it! :-)

Have you been living abroad the last two years?
oscaig - on 30 Sep 2013
In reply to Robert Durran:

Oddly enough the last few years I've actually been back in the UK but even with that it seems that whenever I carve out some time to head off climbing I still manage to miss any good weather. The last two weeks being a case in point! Kind of goes with being exiled to deepest Englandshire currently with limited possibility to head off home at the drop of a hat.
Minneconjou Sioux - on 30 Sep 2013
In reply to pamph:
> (In reply to Michael Gordon)
> [...]
>
>
> 10. Crag 'X' on the NE coast. I'm still developing it......;-)

Already been done I afraid ;-)
Minneconjou Sioux - on 30 Sep 2013
In reply to Steve Crowe:
> (In reply to Michael Gordon)
>
>
> 10. Crag X up in the Far NW Highlands

Also been done, nothing left.
Michael Gordon - on 30 Sep 2013
In reply to oscaig:
> (In reply to Michael Gordon)
> Shame we don't often get the weather to get out and get round more of it! :-)
>

Yes the last month has been poor, but then it is September. I think the year on the whole has been pretty good though.


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