/ Injured elbow how to train.

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Jones_88 - on 23 Sep 2013
Buggered up my elbow somehow 2 weeks ago- possibly by seconding stuff well above my leading grade and then a week later it's hurting so much I can't even do 5/6 boulder problems without the pain stopping me climbing and moaning like a little girl.

I'm going away for a month on a climbing trip on the 25th of October so don't want to loose all of my strength in the mean time while I recover.

What's the best way to train for climbing only using one arm? Or even no arms and just my hands?
My other elbow is ok but might be on the verge of going the same way as the other so I'm in a bit of a pickle. Pain killers numb the pain but I'm laying off it until its fixed so I don't spoil my trip.
Carrying a basket of shopping hurts without taking the painkillers as a bit of an idea as to why I don't even want to do press ups to fully rest it.

Any tips/advice appreciated.

cheers.
alexanderjwatts - on 23 Sep 2013
tripehound - on 23 Sep 2013
In reply to Jones_88:
I did something similar last October. Diagnosed as lateral epicondylitis i.e. Tennis elbow caused by the injury. Still not right still doing Physio.
rest it for a week or two put ice on it and get a correct diagnosis.
Good luck.
CurlyStevo - on 23 Sep 2013
In reply to tripehound:
In my experience this injury often never completely heals and has to be managed to some extent, both my elbows are prone to this now and I have to watch doing overhanging indoor stuff.
jkarran - on 23 Sep 2013
In reply to Jones_88:

> I'm going away for a month on a climbing trip on the 25th of October so don't want to loose all of my strength in the mean time while I recover.
> Any tips/advice appreciated.

Don't train. Rest it and see a physio.

If your trip is for trad you probably don't need to be strong, you just need to keep your head in gear which can be done leading slabs while looking after your elbows. If it's for sport you'll probably do better and have more fun turning up well if a little rusty than in pain but current.

Climbing one handed will just ruin something else, your shoulder, your other elbow, your back...

jk
Jones_88 - on 23 Sep 2013
In reply to Jones_88:

Ok cheers.
I'm going to Arapiles for a month so it looks pumpy and quite likely to batter my elbow with my shitty technique have.

Think ill pop and see the doctor & physio then do the exercises in the video on that link with the weighs on a stick as well as what ever the physio says.
I only lead about 6a but I was yomping up a couple of 6c+ routes after having 2/3 weeks off climbing so not the best thing to do after a long break really.

Looks like my road bike's going to get a bit of use over the next few weeks then.

cheers
dave frost - on 23 Sep 2013
In reply to Jones_88: How do pressups feel ? or handstands, or even handstand pressups ? theyre all good exercise. If you've got a gym how about deadlifts ? or front squats ?

You probably do need to see a physio before you do anything much though.

Dave
adam06 - on 23 Sep 2013
its worker's elbow mate... the only cure is to man up and go climbing instead of working!

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