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Topic - help me figure out some training for the winter!

supafly on 24 Sep 2013
I have been climbing around 6 years and I've always believed that if I just climb I will steadily progress, even in the absence of a specific training schedule.

Right now I boulder around 2-3 times a week for about an hour. Nothing specific, just start with a warm up and see how far I get - currently that's around V4 or sometimes the odd V5.

I have started to mix up some routes recently, I onsight around the 6c or 6c+ mark and can probably redpoint a little harder than that.

Ideally I would like to see an increase in grades there to getting up to climbing up to V5/V6 on a regular basis.

My ultimate climbing goal has always been to climb outside better but I have found I have stalled at around the 5.8/9 (VS/HVS) mark mainly because of being scared but also because I find gym climbing doesn't set you up very well for the kind of outdoor climbing I do, which is mainly crack and slab (I live near Squamish, BC).

So please help me come up with a training schedule!

I have a hangboard but haven't really gotten into it, I did a few hangs and they were pretty hard, I think finger strength is keeping me back a lot of the time with bouldering.

For outdoor progression, maybe fall practise? Books about the mental game?

Any help appreciated!
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