Having never been to the El Chorro area before I was wondering if anyone can give me an update on the fixed gear or more to the point the lack of fixed gear on some of the routes in the Cotos Bajas and Cotos Medios area of the crag mentioned above.
I've checked the recent logged ascents for comments and no one seems to mention either having to place gear or if the routes are now fully bolted.
Any info would be most welcome as we pack this weekend
In reply to SGD:
I was in El Chorro back in June but didn't climb in those areas. I did notice on some climbs in the areas I went to, even 3 star routes in the RockFax guide, the hangers had been taken off the bolts so you couldn't climb them.
A friend of mine went up a 6a which shared the start with a 6b then the two separated, the 6a had it's hangers stripped after the shared section. Something you wouldn't notice until you've got to the last hanger and looked up or got to the stripped bolt.
I would say though that the vast majority of the routes we went to were nicely bolted.
In reply to ElBarto: Cheers, I picked up on some similar comments when I was reading some of the logbooks. I think if our weight allowance will stretch far enough I will take some wires and pick up the local guide when we are there that way we can ask in the Climbing shop if they have any more update info. Sounds like packing the binos might not be a bad move either.
In reply to ElBarto:
was that "Un monton de chatarra" at sector castrojo? I think the reason the hangars have been removed there is due to loose dangerous rock.
The Rockfax guide is now 5 years out of date - you can download an update pdf from the website, but even that's only from 2010. I think the local guidebook (available in the climbing shop in the village) is more up to date, and is recommended if you have a choice - there have been quite a few new routes put up since the Rockfax, and some rebolting.
I wouldn't bother taking trad gear, as there's so much sport climbing on offer