/ Recommend me a rucksack for multipitch climbing
So, I'm looking for something that won't have those problems, and that I can take on a plane with me as hand luggage. The Montane Medusa 32 looks as though it could be the solution.
Any recommendations from the collective wisdom of UKC?
I recently moved to a montane cobra 25 from an osprey 33 ltr pack. I find the slightly more rigid back on the montane makes it more comfortable and it generally seems more hard wearing. I like it a lot more! So far, I haven't found 25 ltr a drawback, I can strap a rope over the top securely using the compression straps and a long QuickDraw over the centre, and I have invented a simple strap to hold my helmet securely on the outside too. I got the 25ltr bag second hand off a mate for a song though, if I was buying new I'd be tempted by the 33 as it's probably just big enough to bivvy out of.
I love my Medusa as it takes rope, rack and helmet if packed correctly. The 'buddy' pocket on the top is great so you don't have to take it off to get to your crunchy bar.
It's material is tough as anything but if packed with metal digging in it's size it looks like a snake who has just eaten a tonne of golf balls.
I however am just shy of 6 foot 2 so i can't help you with the helmet solution even though I can look around freely.
a red one
I didn't like the Futura because of its centre of gravity but if it fits you, you can't be that short and simply putting the lid inside the main compartment and closing that via the drawstring should fix the helmet issue. It did for me.
I switched to a Deuter Guide 35+ because I can fit both climbing and camping gear in there with the extension. But the Medusa is 700g lighter and thus probably better if 32l is all you need.
But really, the solution is to head to a shop, with you gear, and try on a couple of packs.
Is this "multipitch climbing" full-on alpine routes or longish valley cragging style rock routes?
For the latter - waterproof, bottle of water, shoes, guidebook - I find the Pod Granite 16 excellent.
For alpine routes - the above plus food, belay jacket, minimal bivvy gear etc. - I like my OMM Villain. It's overkill capacity wise but can be stripped down to very light and frameless, and I find it distributes the weight flatter along my back and therefore climbs better than a smaller pack where the weight sits in one compact lump.
There is a 25 litre version of the Pod which might cover both jobs adequately.
Ummn, has Blue Ice come out with a new model, as I though they only had the original warthog at 26 and now the bigger one at 38?
arcteryx cierzo 28, and cut the lid off.
exped cloudburst 15
Markus- the Futura fits, but only just, so something a bit shorter seems sensible.
Cilo gear sacks are pretty good as well. A bit pricey, but robust as anything and light
Another +1 for the Alpkit Gourdon 20 :)
Another vote for the Pod Granite 16. I'm quite short and I found this pack really comfortable when climbing and big enough for half of the gear, water, food and a small jacket. Rope and helmet have to be attached on the outside.
Petzl Bug for lightweight days, Montane Cobra when you need a little more space.
For winter i use a Marmot Centaur 38. All three are comfortable, versatile and all round great sacks, but the biggest thing is how they feel on your back. Get to a shop and try a few of the suggestions for fit and make your own mind up.
> Petzl Bug for lightweight days
At 570g, it really isn't lightweight in the slightest. What it is is very tough and well designed with straps for attaching your rope to and a handy slot for a guidebook etc.
At 68g, this is my preferred rock climbing sack: http://www.outside.co.uk/shop/Ultra-Sil+Day+Pack
Just be aware that it doesn't like enthusiatic chimneying! And you may want to walk in racked up.
Sorry, should have clarified that i meant lightweight in terms of the climbing rack being carried, not bag weight. The Bug is a great wee sack for single day outings, but it's limited by its own volume. I tend to use mine when i know i won't have to worry about waterproofs or other bulky stuff.
I agree petzl bug.
I got a DMM pitcher rope bag this year which has worked well. I've also used a OMM 25ltr in the past.
DMM's new sacks coming out next year look good and might be worth the wait.
Like others have noted, it really depends on what kind of multi-pitching you mean. I personally use a tiny 12 L Grivel Mago, that's perfect for carrying an extra couple of layers, water, camera, wallet and phone. With my climbing partners we have a rule that the second will carry the pack, but with the Mago I'm happy to keep it on me while leading because it has an extra gear loop at the front that can come in handy at times and it really does not hinder freedom of movement... no wonder... it's 12 L only! You can move it at the front reaching for its content without taking it off your shoulders which is nice so you don't risk dropping it. Grivel's got a 13 L version too, the Lynx, which comes with a detachable gear sling too. I've only ever seen it, so I can't comment on it.
Another pack many people like down here is the Climbing Technology Magic Pack. Packable 16 L backpack that some people carry as an extra emergency pack too... inside a bigger back.
If you mean more adventurous multi-pitching, alpine, winter, ice, etc. then it's a totally different game. You'll need a larger pack and it will be in the way one way or another. Last summer in Freidrichshafen I saw a preview of Climbing Technology's new 2014 climbing packs range. All designed with rock climbing in mind, clean lines and no frills, shaped in order to allow maximum freedom of movement (reversed pear, if that makes sense). Very interesting indeed.
Grivel's got a few already. The 28 L Marmolada is an interesting all-rounder, but evidently shaped for rock climbing. I personally can't see how you can go bigger than that without going into the realm of back packs for hiking and trekking.
But really there is so much out there and the standard is very high nowadays. Unfortunately despite everyone moving the manufacturing to the far east, prices don't seem to ease off at all...
Finally, in cash strapped Italy, people use whatever they have as long as it's small enough. I've literally seen people climbing with their kids old rucksacks. I can hardly go cheaper than that! ;-)
Wore holes in the bottom of mine really quickly (150m of not very involved descent). Is a nice piece of kit though, I like it.
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