There's a bunch of about 6 of us that normally have a week long trip to somewhere in Europe each year. We climb sports F6a/b and trad HVS/ 5a/b (both on a good day!).
So far in the last 10 years we've been to Mallorca, Sardinia, Sicily, Kalymnos (several times), Morocco (OK, I know it's not in Europe), El Chorro, Costa Blanca, and loads of other places across the south of France from Vingrau to Nice and up as far as Burgundy.
We're in the middle of the annual discussion about where shall we go next year, and we're a bit short of ideas, so this is where I'm seeking some help please.
Can anyone suggest a crag or area with a series of crags in Europe where we could have a great week climbing at our grade range, not too crowded or polished, ideally with accommodation other than camping, good food and wine, beautiful countryside, permanent sunshine (but not too hot).... ie the perfect new location for a week away.
Envers des Aguilles above Chamonix? There is a hut there (food was fantastic a couple of years ago,) and a glacial approach to the hut and most of the climbs but the HUGE granite routes are amazing. They are a mix of bolt and trad, with bolts at cruxes and are given alpine grades here when they should get french sport (6a for Pont des Soupirs, 6b for Marchand de Sable etc... the guidebook has them.)
Failing that, I've heard good things of the sport around Finale in Italy and Spilt in Croatia.
Might consider Meteora as suggested, then Varasova on the mainland opposite Patras. Fly/drive to Thessaloniki - Meteora an hour away on good roads. 2 days there on the conglomerate towers, then a couple of hours to Varasova. Huge crag above the beach, classics at the grade, sport, mixed and trad, single and multi pitch. 2 minute stroll to tavernas and apartments. There's a mile long DWS if so desired and one of the longest and best ridge climbs in Europe with pitches up to 4+/5-, and an 18 pitch 7a (6b obl). classic, The Shining Path, all on good featured limestone. Used to be my "local' crag. Free guidebook when you eat at one of the tavernas and fresh fish straight off the boat. Never crowded, but the local climbers are invariably very friendly.
In reply to Andy Chubb: lleida region in particular abella de la conca (you will wish it was polished after a few days as the rock is so new!!) where we run a refugio ( opening 2014, www.facebook/abellaclimb.com), new sectirs there in you grade range with proximity to awesome multipitch sport and semi equipped in your grade range in roca del arcs ( villanova de meia 30min from us) , collegats with its south facing conglomerate ( cine, gramuntil sectors) 30min as well, ager( barranc de grillons) 40 min.
In terms of wine its coster de segre region which is getting a bigger name especially because local wine makers (10 within 30km) have gone back to old local grapes a few years ago. The wines tend to be full bodied and on strong side 14% generrally.
If you want more info dont hesitate to contact me. And by the way the new lleida climbs topo coming out end of this year will have lots of new sectors to climb in the 5/6 range!!
In reply to Andy Chubb: If you want to try something very different, how about SW Sweden? Vast amounts of trad cragging around Gothenburg and just up the road in Bohuslšn. Some sport too, but less than the trad.
In reply to Andy Chubb: several areas in croatia: split/omis, paklenica, krk, or base yourself around osp/slovenia and do short day travels to trieste & istria for a sampler of food, wine, rock and sea. Best thomas
Yep second that. Paklenica is amazing, not too polished, not too crowded, tons of seaside accommodation, restaurants & cheap booze. 45 minutes to Zadar airport.
We named our daughter after the mountain Anica Kuk...
I suggest all the the western Balkan countries.. Montenegro, Serbia and Macedonia have some amazing climbing, but it is still quite undeveloped in most areas
check www.wizzair.com fly to all those places from £19.99! Food and accommodation are good and very cheap still too
In reply to Andy Chubb:
Norway is amazing for climbing but the weather is unreliable, particularly the months you're looking at. It's a pity, as Flatanger, for example, kicks ass big time (there's a lot more to it than the cave).