UKC

The day before a hard route/ redpoint?

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 CharlieMack 03 Oct 2013
What do you do the day before you go to try a route at/ near your limit?

Rest, light session, some power endurance on fingerboard? A heavy session at the pub so you get bonus points for the send?
 Keendan 03 Oct 2013
In reply to CharlieMack:

A light run I guess, if I was being serious about it. Debatable benefit but makes me feel good.
 Fraser 03 Oct 2013
In reply to CharlieMack:

Usually for me it's a rest day.
 1poundSOCKS 03 Oct 2013
In reply to CharlieMack: Never done one, but when I was going down the wall for a session, and wanted some inspiration, I'd put on the Ondra film, just to remind me what it really means to try hard.
 Luke Owens 03 Oct 2013
In reply to CharlieMack:

Rest day or very light active rest. Don't eat too much, get a good sleep and do plenty of visualisation.
OP CharlieMack 03 Oct 2013
In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

Watching an Ondra vid always helps with psych! Definitely the epitome of trying hard.
 Exile 03 Oct 2013
In reply to CharlieMack:

What Luke Owens said
In reply to CharlieMack:

The pub, obviously. I don't know - youth of today.....

jcm
 ripper 03 Oct 2013
In reply to CharlieMack: usually a stressful day in the office, late finish, earache/passive aggressive guilt trippery from the mrs, pick up my lift-shares, 3-4 hour drive, throw the tent up in the dark, grab a pint or two assuming we've make it to the chosen venue before last orders...
 the power 03 Oct 2013
In reply to CharlieMack: knock one out
 nniff 03 Oct 2013
In reply to ripper:
> (In reply to CharlieMack) usually a stressful day in the office, late finish, earache/passive aggressive guilt trippery from the mrs, pick up my lift-shares, 3-4 hour drive, throw the tent up in the dark, grab a pint or two assuming we've make it to the chosen venue before last orders...

that sounds about right
 jkarran 03 Oct 2013
In reply to CharlieMack:

Generally whatever Sunday brings, a bit of a run, gliding, walk the dog, overnight drive, a couple of pints and a board-game... Basically: life, the thought of tomorrow's climbing never enters my head.

jk
 petellis 03 Oct 2013
In reply to ripper:
> (In reply to CharlieMack) usually a stressful day in the office, late finish, earache/passive aggressive guilt trippery from the mrs, pick up my lift-shares, 3-4 hour drive, throw the tent up in the dark, grab a pint or two assuming we've make it to the chosen venue before last orders...

Similar to me that one, day at work, in the car at 4, sit in some traffic for 2-4 hours, try not to park it in the central reservation if its raining... then a couple of pints with whatever mate I am crashing with, followed by not enough sleep. It doesn't work very well and I wish I could change it....
 Enty 03 Oct 2013
In reply to CharlieMack:
> What do you do the day before you go to try a route at/ near your limit?
>
> Rest, light session, some power endurance on fingerboard? A heavy session at the pub so you get bonus points for the send?

Go for a 125km bike ride, eat pizza then get pissed then wonder why I've been falling off that top move twice a week since April

E
 1poundSOCKS 03 Oct 2013
In reply to Enty: I think you need to add "don't bother to warm up" to that list Craig.
 jon 03 Oct 2013
In reply to Enty:

Still Craig, after a 125km ride, eating pizza and getting pissed, just getting to that last move isn't bad! When was your last go?
 jon 03 Oct 2013
In reply to CharlieMack:

No, it's not the day before the redpoint that's the problem, it's the minutes before when the redpoint nerves set in. Like this: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=129795
 Bulls Crack 03 Oct 2013
In reply to jkarran:
> (In reply to CharlieMack)
>
> Generally whatever Sunday brings, a bit of a run, gliding, walk the dog, overnight drive, a couple of pints and a board-game... Basically: life, the thought of tomorrow's climbing never enters my head.
>
> jk

So all your climbing's on a Monday?
 jkarran 04 Oct 2013
In reply to Bulls Crack:

90%+ of my redpointing is on a Monday. Odd but true, I climb sport with my part-time housemate who's only about Mondays and Tuesdays, Monday works best.

jk
 Bulls Crack 04 Oct 2013
In reply to jkarran:

Must be nice and quiet
 Enty 05 Oct 2013
In reply to jon:
> (In reply to Enty)
>
> Still Craig, after a 125km ride, eating pizza and getting pissed, just getting to that last move isn't bad! When was your last go?

Yesterday - did it in two again.

E
 Bulls Crack 06 Oct 2013
In reply to CharlieMack:

Always eat a lot of beans etc the day before and then try and retain the gas - those extra ounces lost can make all the difference!
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