UKC

I just downloaded this app last night and I think it's great. However, it seems like the routines are really hard for the given grade.

Maybe that's me (I don't have the strongest fingers) and I can live with that as I'm going to start at the easiest setting and work my way up slowly.

I'd be interested to know how often people use their fingerboards. I'm keen to train but would rather do too little than risk injury.

In reply to mikeski: yep. All the feedback I've heard is the same, the grades are hard and don't really relate to what you climb. Hooray another inconsistent grade ! . But I use it once a week and I still find it tough to complete even the 5a session properly. I'd say to work from the easy and head up depending on how it goes. As with any fingerboard session, warm up well don't do them every night and don't panic if you don't manage the full set. Oh, and put a chair under a foot if you need to.

In reply to mikeski:

I haven't used the app, but they could feel hard for a good design reason. That is, the assumption when you start say, the 5A programme, is that you want to progress from 5A (it is a training app, after all). Therefore it would seem very odd to me if it didn't feel hard to somebody who is only just bouldering 5A.

Of course, if it's completely out of whack, e.g. the 5A programme is tough even for somebody consistently bouldering 7A, it's probably just really miscalibrated, and you can ignore my musing!

In reply to mikeski: it's out of whack. I climb higher than 5A.

In reply to mikeski: Punter!

In reply to mikeski:

Thread about the same issue here - http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=561712

In reply to mikeski: I just use it for the timings and use whichever handholds i can hold, works pretty well this way.

In reply to mikeski:

8B climber in can't grade 5A shock.