UKC

Im planning on a week in Switzerland in June next year and looking at climbing the Breithorn. Ive got plenty of Scottish winter walking and a bit of winter climbing experience but my partner has never yet worn crampons.(though we plan on getting out in the snow this winter)
How easy is the Breithorn? Ive seen various comments and they range from hire a guide to do it yourself and follow everyone else. Looking on youtube it seems to be a fairly steady climb and the way is obvious. Any comments?

In reply to BigLob: From the Klein Matterhorn lift it is pretty straightforward. The slope near the top is quite steep and can be icy so be comfortable using crampons and also with exposure as the summit is quite a narrow ridge. There is normally a huge track so the route will be obvious but be aware that there may be crevasses around, particularly near the cable car station, so rope up. You will be out of breath and possible feel a little ill if you go straight up there.

In reply to BigLob:

It can be pretty easy. There's the possibility of crevasses on the approach from the Kleine Matterhorn and I guess it could get icy, but when I did it a couple of years ago (on the way back from Castor) there was a well-beaten path and people literally doing it in trainers, not that I'd recommend that.

In reply to MG:
Thanks for that, thats what I thought. Was planning on roping up as well.

In reply to hokkyokusei:
Thats what I thought from Ive seen so far. Thanks for the info. And i'll leave my trainers in the hut!

In reply to BigLob:

It's stupidly easy. It's highly unlikely you will fall in a slot, but as long as your mate holds the fall, then you'll get loads of help as on a normal day there's lots of people up there. It's a nice short walk from the lift to the summit. Very easy and obvious.

In reply to BigLob:

From the lift, it may be the easiest 4000er in the Alps. It's certainly the easiest one I've done. Coniston Old Man is much longer and more demanding.

But as others have said, don't assume that there will be no crevasses, and remember that from the top, there's a pretty humungous drop off the Mattertal side.

In reply to BigLob:

At the risk of going off-topic, why the Briethorn? You could go to Arolla - do La Luette, the Pigne d'Arolla and then go around to the Moiry Hut as there are a several easier peaks around there. (others on this site will have a huge number of other suggestions for a first season).

The idea of going to Zermatt (horrible commercial expensive place - although with a very nice mountain to look at) and paying for the lift when you have the experience to go and do your own thing seems wrong to me.

If you hire a guide get a British one and take their advice as to good walks/climbs. Concentrating on one mountain might mean that if it isn't in condition you don't achieve anything near as much.

On a more general note, conditions may be more static in July as there could be some quite deep snow around, certainly at the beginning of June and some huts won't be open.

HTH

Steve

In reply to SouthernSteve:
Horses for courses - I have been to both Arolla and Zermatt, and both are great places in their own way. As for Zermatt being 'commercial', so is Arolla but on a smaller scale. If the Alps weren't 'commercial' then the locals would still be living a life of pastoral poverty.

However, I agree that the Pigne d'Arolla is a better mountain than Breithorn.

In reply to Only a hill:

But not 4000m high which I guess is a large amount of the appeal...

Pigne d'Arolla is good to ski down too.

In reply to BigLob:
As already said it is very easy in Alpine terms. There is a very small rock band you have to pass <seasonal maybe> but again, this is easy but you don't want a silly trip on this so take care. You said you would be roping up and is a standard approch I guess but obviously you'll need to be slick with moving together 'short roped'. You'll not be placing any gear at all but the rope is there to prevent a trip becoming a slide. Both need to understand the mechanics and risks as if it goes wrong and one of you trip and it is unchecked by the other, you'll both slide a long, long way. Ice axe arrest is perhaps the most important skill you'll both need so work on that this winter. It's about a mile of glasier crossing and half a mile on the slope to the summit, it'll feel much further though as you'll be suffering the affects of the altitude. It is usual to dump your sack at the bottom of the uphill bit to save carrying it up, personal call I guess.
Its a lovely easy peak and one well worth doing, pic in my gallery of us on the summit a few years back, both had big smiles obvioulsy! Have fun.

In reply to BigLob: There used to be guided groups which would cost less than normal. When I was up there several years ago I saw one group led by the oldest guide in Zermatt, 80 so someone told me. Seems to be a sort of retirement package for guides to lead these groups. Just a glacier walk with a very short scramble at the end, but as someone commented, there is a very sharp drop on the other side! Somewhere like the Allalinhorn is much more interesting but there's more climbing involved.

In reply to SouthernSteve:
Thanks for the tip. Ive been to Arolla in the past but we both fancied Zermatt plus ive a mate with an apartment there we can use. The reason for the Breithorn is my partner has no alpine or winter climbing experience (though as I said we are hoping to get some in this winter) Also, i suffer from back problems and need easy days out these days. Ive done my own thing in the past but happy to pay for guides if I feel I need one. (ive also hired guides in Chamonix in the past)

In reply to BigLob:

I think if you take a guide you'll regret it - unless of course you feel like it's putting you outside your comfort zone or putting too much pressure on you with your inexperienced friend - it's very easy and very expensive. And that's from a guide!

In reply to BigLob:
Judging by what you've said about your past experience, you definitely don't need a guide for the route up from the Klein Matterhorn. It really is a basic stomp in crampons for a couple of hours or so. Plenty of people en route too, so you'll never feel overly committed anywhere - if you feel you may have nervous partners.
Perfect for anyone wishing to tick off a first 4000er. The views are incredible and you'll be back in Zermatt for a pint and strudl by early afternoon.
The most painful bit is the lift costs to the KM
Enjoy.

In reply to BigLob: Did it when I was 8 with no crampons from the kleine scheidegg. I remember it was fine but a bit scary on the way down. mum and dad had us on a rope and had ice axes but no crampons. Usual things, crevasses, need good weather, clothing and unpredictable altitude etc.

In reply to rurp:

Blimey, that's a long way for an 8 year old.

In reply to rurp: when I was 7 I did the Eiger fom the Kleine Materhorn in bare feet.

In reply to BigLob:

If you go in good visibility this will be the easiest 4000m peak you can do bar perhaps the Allinhorn ( not via the Holaubgrat but tourist way ) - when I climbed it we had bad visibility & heavy snow on the way down : in these conditions it is possible to get lost on the Gobba de Rollin (sp) plateaux c30 years ago a number of ski mountaineers all froze to death in a spring storm after failing to find their way back to the Kleine Matterhorn.

We dossed in one of the marshalls huts under the ski tows for a while while the weather improved so unless you are very unlucky with the weather or you are not quick enough to take some bearings you should have no problems.

Don't bother with a guide but as its your first trip do do some research on holding falls & crevasse rescue & learn how to prussick , wear a helmet crossing the glacier for no other reason than if you or your partner do go into a crevasse ( highly unlikely ) you won't knock yourselves out & you can then prussick or twin axe climb yourselves out , suggest you have 15 metres between you on the rope as with less you much reduce your time to avoid following your partner into the slot.

As others have said though it will probably be so busy if you went into a slot there is a very good chance others would help you out - however not good practice to rely on this as sods law says no one is around when you need them.

Have fun the views are great , why not make it an early start & continue to onto Castor or Pollux or come back up again & try these later in the week.

Cheers Sean

In reply to BigLob:

First alpine route I ever did, at the age of 16, with my father, brother, cousins and a guide. Absolutely straightforward. Lovely position, super views. There's a moderately steep slope of a few hundred feet that would require crampons in icy conditions, but I'm sure when we did it it was just a matter of putting our bendy hill walking boots into huge bucket steps. I'm fairly sure we didn't have ice axes either.

In reply to BigLob:

.. that was in 1966.