UKC

5c and 6a English Slab Boulder problems,

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J1234 08 Oct 2013
Hi can anyone recommend any 5c and 6a boulder slab problems please. I`m actually very wimpish at bouldering as I don`t like being close to the ground, but would like to get comfy on my feet on 5c / 6a. peak or Lancs/Yorks border or maybe chew area, all this V stuff confuses me.
Cheers sjc
 chris fox 08 Oct 2013
In reply to sjc:

Three pocket slab at the roaches

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=29571
 papashango 08 Oct 2013
In reply to sjc:

Widdop, pickpocket wall and crack, both great problems
 Jon Stewart 08 Oct 2013
In reply to sjc:

Caley is very good for slabby bouldering - it's probably the best bouldering in the UK in fact and has loads to go at. OK it's a bit far from the Lancs border but I think you're being a bit picky there, either climb the decent stuff in Yorkshire, or don't. For slabs around 6a, the classics are Otley Wall and Low Pebble Wall. They're both high enough to give a little bit of a buzz, but perfectly fine to fall off. Another corker is Chicken Scoop, then there's Mr Smooth. There's also a good easy slab (might be 5c direct) which I can't remember the name of, but it's obvious and you could spend half an hour doing eliminates on it.

The list of slabby problems at that grades at Caley is really pretty long. Get a guidebook and go there. The only problems with Caley are that it's a bit dirty (litter, turds etc) and the Roadside area is, yes, right by the side of a busy road. It's also entirely useless in summer and very cold and rather damp in winter (but surprisingly often still climbable).

In the Peak, Robin Hood Stride and Cratcliff top boulders has lots of good slaby problems at that grade too, a great venue. And of course Burbage South - it's pretty boring, but there are tons of short, unscary 5c slabs all over the place, no need to fixate on particular problems.
J1234 08 Oct 2013
In reply to sjc: Thanks for the replies, Pickpocket Wall is one i should be on and Caley is a place I can visit easily as mates go there, and the one at the Roaches looks good. Really helpful, thanks.
In reply to sjc:

Don't get too excited about Three Pocket Slab. It's good, but it's about 5b.

There's a couple of very smeary little 5c/6a problems on the Lone Boulder at Stanage Plantation, but I wouldn't travel a long way for them. Just if you happen to find yourself at Stanage...
 Andy Hardy 08 Oct 2013
In reply to sjc:

Have you done Joe's slab at Froggatt? The centre is 5c and the RH arete is 6a (from hazy memory)
J1234 08 Oct 2013
In reply to 999thAndy: No and it would be ideal for my purposes. Is it nice and safe with a pad, non of this high ball with a bad landing malarkey.
 robin mueller 08 Oct 2013
In reply to sjc:

At Blackstone Edge there are two really good font 6A slabs (uk 5c/6a) - the slab beneath the trig point (Trig Slab) and the the slab on the Hueco Block (Blackstone Slab).

Vid of Trig Slab - youtube.com/watch?v=D11oGSWfE8w&

 Dave Garnett 08 Oct 2013
In reply to victim of mathematics:
> (In reply to sjc)
>
> Don't get too excited about Three Pocket Slab. It's good, but it's about 5b.
>

I think that's a bit harsh but it is fairly straightforward if you do it right. Lots of people don't, though, and I think that sequence at the top of a route would stop most E1 5b leaders!
 Dave Garnett 08 Oct 2013
In reply to sjc:

Bog Monster and Bog Standard on the Roaches Spring boulders are nice 5c-ish problems above a soft landing!

Some really nice ones on the very Far Skyline boulders; Two Pocker Slab, Lazy Trout, Flight Exam, the Loner etc.

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