UKC

Chris Sharma, who has been spending a lot of time on the road lately, has finally found a worthy project on US soil, or rock to be exact.
Now that the Dawn wall project is out of play for the time being, Chris has once again set his sights on a mega project at Clark Mountain in the Californian...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68406

In reply to UKC News: what would a 7c+ into an 8b get?

In reply to puppythedog: The magic grade calculator says 8b+.

In reply to UKC News:

Dawn Wall out of play? Did I miss some announcement, or is this the whole US Gov't screw-up thing?

jcm

In reply to johncoxmysteriously: US government screw up thing. All national parks are closed. Some people are sneaking in but I guess Sharma is pretty keen to keep his hands clean.

In reply to UKC News:

From the video about Jumbo Love, I thought he pretty much had enough of camping out at Clack mountain. Obviously not.

In reply to JLS: I certainly thought Daila had had enough camping

In reply to remus: Oooo, is there a calculator? is it online?

anoth 9b+ then, that would be three in the world so far?

In reply to UKC News:

Sounds pretty monster to me! Slight aside: I thought Ethan Pringle had climbed 'Jumbo Love' a while back, but it appears not.

In reply to Fraser: I know that Daniel Woods was going to try it but have heard nothing since.

In reply to puppythedog:

Haha, no! I just made a reasonable guess. A grade calculator wouldn't work because there are too many variables to take in to account. For example, doing a long stamina 7c in to a bouldery 8b is much harder than doing a bouldery 7c in to a stamina 8b.

In reply to UKC News:

"Chris Sharma has yet to fail on a project he has gone public on... "

Secret sharma projects???

(There really should be a 'can-o-worms' emoticon available)

In reply to UKC News:
What happened to 'never going back to this hell'?

In reply to Steve13:

Sharma has some bolts in various things that he hasn't put serious work into yet (futuristic line at Ceuse where he claims he can only barely hang on the holds, speculative line at the Red River Gorge which might not even have a start, etc.). From what I can tell the only project he's put really serious time into that's not done is Perfectomondo.

I wonder what the hardest line is that's actually been bolted? The Ondra Project at the Red River Gorge apparently consists of four 8B+ boulder problems stacked together...

In reply to Epsilon:

I thought he gave up on something at Oliana which he declared would maybe be 5.14d, but 'it was on small holds and that's not really my kind of thing'? Or am I way behind the times and he's now done it?

jcm

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

5.14d is 'only' 9a and he's now climbed 'Jumbo Love' at 5.15b and 'La Dura Dura' at 5.15c, so yes, probably a bit behind the times.

In reply to Fraser:

Quite right; sorry, I meant 5.15d.

When the hell are the Americans going to get a grip and use the same grading system for sport routes everyone else in the world does?!

jcm

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

I'm pretty sure I'd walk away from a 5.15d!

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

I'd suggest a lot of the top American sport climbers already have. The main people who perpetuate using YDS grades for sport routes are the American climbing media.