In reply to Michael Gordon:
> (In reply to duchessofmalfi)
>
> The point he is making is that statistically the average man will climb harder than the average women because they (again statistically and on average) are naturally stronger.
I think there's a lot of assumptions in that statement.
1) I think indoor walls (generally) especially at higer grades are more set up more for the use of upper body strength than technique. Huge overhangs on jugs are common in climbing walls, extremely uncommon outside. Very delicate slabs are rare inside, common outside. Hence in a climb wall environment men are very likely to outperform women (in a "grade" sense) as its set up to play to their strengths.
2) However pure strength does not = climbing harder. I've taken some very heavily built folk climbing and they have performed very badly. Only three friends have ever climbed 6a inside on their first session, all three were women.
3) Smaller hands and feet mean smaller holds are bigger.
4) Women are generally more flexible and have a lower centre of gravity.
To be honest, I think that women should probably climb at least as well as men outside, where disadvantages such as reach and strength will be offset by smaller hands/feet, lower bodyweight, greater flexibility, etc.
However, if you look at the grades in logbooks, etc, there is a huge bias towards men climbing harder.
Why though?
I think part of the problem is that women are taught from a very early age to be risk-adverse and not get "dirty", whereas the opposite is more or less expected from boys. Whilst there are plenty who buck the trend and refuse to be turned into pink princesses, there will be a lot of potentially brilliant climbers who are put off because they are repeatedly told its not feminine to be hanging off a rockface by their fingertips.
or more likely, never allowed to get anywhere near the rockface in the first place.
Plus that women are judged in society - almost entirely - by looks, not deeds. I look at my (female) godchildren and its all fake makup and nail polish. It's a hell of a strong character that says "actually I'm going to buck the trend and s*d the lot of you". Nail polish and climbing does not mix well.
So the population of climbers that are women is going to be lower to start with. Hence the population of good female climbers. Hence the population of great female climbers. The female counterpart with more potential as Dave Mcleod may well be now wandering around looking after kids whilst dressed in a pink dress but looking slightly longingly at the trees in the back yard.
And then of course, you get a decent female climber, who is climbing as well or better than the lads, and prenancy and childbirth comes along which pretty much (as several friends have complained) takes your body and systematically destroys it for the sake of the child.
We men don't realise the advantages we have.
(a) pretty much free rein to do whatever we like as a kid, take as many risks as we like, etc.
(b) a "strong, fit" man is generally praised and seen as an ideal body image in media. an emaciated women is seen as an ideal female body image in media.
(c) "male" clothes are generally good for movement and use in a physical environment,
(d) we have zero pressure to wear heels, do nails, and look pretty
(e) we can't give birth to kids