/ HMS, Offset D- or Oval for GriGris/Ab plates??

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kyaizawa - on 17 Oct 2013
It's probably been asked many many times before, but I can't seem to find the threads, so here goes...

What do you use to attach GriGris and Fig8/ab plates to your harness?? And more importantly, why?? Would the same argument/reasoning apply to other mechanical devices like the Shunt and the Stop??

I know something like the Petzl Freino is the recommended karabiner for GriGris, but I've heard equally many arguments for ovals, and against HMS's. I'm pretty sure all of the above are ok (Petzl just specify a "Locking Carabiner"), but what is "best practice"??

Thanks in advance for your help!!
neuromancer - on 17 Oct 2013
In reply to kyaizawa:

I tend to use a karabiner.

I've heard it works best.

PS. I use a gridlock.
Nath93 - on 17 Oct 2013
In reply to kyaizawa: DMM Aero HMS, nice and simple and works well, also pretty cheap. Almost any HMS will do the job fine. No need to get overly complicated.
martinph78 on 17 Oct 2013
In reply to kyaizawa: I really like the Petzl OK Oval for use with the Gri-gri, ascender and croll. It doesn't end up in a cross-loaded position either.
abbotsmike - on 17 Oct 2013
In reply to kyaizawa:

DMM rhino is deliberately geared towards gri-gris. It can't move round and cross load. Could be worth a look

I use a DMM sentinel for my belay plate, and I tend to use my belay plate for abbing too. It's shaped nicely and works for me.
Jonny2vests - on 18 Oct 2013
In reply to kyaizawa:

> I'm pretty sure all of the above are ok (Petzl just specify a "Locking Carabiner"), but what is "best practice"??

The nearest one.

As long as the screwgate is rated and can fit through the hole, then the differences are minuscule. 'Best practice' doesn't really come into it.
jimtitt - on 18 Oct 2013
In reply to kyaizawa:
The traditional reason for using an HMS is so you can still belay/abseil when you throw the device down the cliff.
highclimber - on 18 Oct 2013
In reply to kyaizawa: There is a UIAA document somewhere that mentions using a HMS style crab for a fig 8 can be dangerous if it becomes cross loaded and that an offset D style is less likely to be cross loaded. I have personally seen a Gri Gri do exactly that and when it was loaded from a fall it made an almighty noise as it repositioned itself after getting stuck on the gate - the crab being used was a HMS!
Jonny2vests - on 18 Oct 2013
In reply to highclimber:

I don't get it. Did this happen to a fig 8 or a Grigri?
highclimber - on 18 Oct 2013
In reply to Jonny2vests: The thing I personally witnessed was a gri gri used on a HMS. The crossloading by a fig8 is noted as a possibilty in a few documents on the internet.
Jonny2vests - on 18 Oct 2013
In reply to highclimber:

I've heard of cases of cross loading because the HMS was clipped through waist an leg loop strong points instead of belay loop. The fig8 has a cramming action.
David Coley - on 18 Oct 2013
In reply to kyaizawa:

For reasons I can't explain, an oval seems to get cross-loaded less often. This is just based on my personal observation.
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andrewmcleod - on 19 Oct 2013
In reply to kyaizawa:

So to summarise...

Any locking crab will do.
If you want the 'best', then get something like a DMM Belay Master (which cannot cross-load) or equivalent?

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