/ Questions about 'silent feet'
Since I just read about it briefly one day and didn't really get advise from anyone before doing it, I have a couple of questions:
1. Is it just an exercise that I should do for a fraction of the climbing session (I've read it can be done as warm up) or can I just do it for the duration of the session. I pretty much try it for most of the climbing session with the exception of some problems that I am just trying to complete (usually if time permits I go back and try to do them again with silent feet)
2. When trying to do it, it sometimes feel that I am taking more weight with my arms that I would normally do (i.e. I pull one holds with my arms more in order to place my foot quietly and accurately). Is this normal or is it because I am unbalanced?
3. Is it worth keep doing this (i.e. will I continue benefiting from it) or is it mainly for complete beginners to understand about balance and good feet placement? (I feel I am not a complete beginner but my technique definitely needs a lot of polishing up)
Just because it's a Greek name? lol
In case you are wondering - my name is Simos (surprisingly!). Any more questions, feel free to ask! :)
> Just because it's a Greek name? lol
No, that didn't cross my mind. Just it's similar to the sort of questions he asks.
You'll have probably noticed that your forearms ache when doing silent feet. There are loads of advantages like strongers arms & better balance.
It's not just for beginners, for example, Shauna Coxsey mentions it in one of her newest Adidas videos, and she's climbing 8's.
Keep going, use it as you feel, only you'll know if it's working for you.
1. No, do it all the time
2. Your arms may be tired because you've slowed down to increase accuracy, as you improve you'll be able to speed back up (with foot placements) and remain accurate.
3. Yes keep going, no it's not for beginners, it's for everyone.
Thanks - good idea to practice it on smaller footholds, might need to make up my own routes for that (so that the hand holds are big enough for me to hold) but certainly doable.
Checked out your website by the way, if I ever decide to do more outdoors climbing and come to the Lake District I'll give you a shout for some coaching.
IMHO it's something to aspire to all the time, but if it's actually the top thing on your mind all the time then there's a risk that your technique will suffer in other areas and you'll pick up different bad habits. So I try to mix up climbs really focusing on silent feet with climbs thinking about something else (like straight arms, not over-gripping, breathing steadily, moving quickly and smoothly etc) while still having quiet, accurate footwork at the back of my mind...
Yes that is my worry too and I suspect partly the reason why my arms get more tired is that sometimes while worrying about accurate foot placement I pull too much and/or bend my elbows (apart from moving slower, which is also true as I pause for a moment before placing my feet).
I guess I just need to multi-task but one tip I was given in another sport is to not try and focus on everything at the same time but repeat the task and focus on getting on thing perfect every time e.g doing the same route, first just trying to get perfect foot placement and not worrying too much about arms, then do it again and focus on keeping arms straight without worrying too much about feet etc. Obviously once you feel comfortable with all the different aspects you do the route again and try to put everything together.
Silent feet is much easier with a strong core.
This is a great exercise. Try watching videos of Jain Kim on the lead world cup circuit vs. other top climbers for a great example of the difference 'silent feet' will make at the highest level.
Maybe alternate back and forth? So climb for a bit with silent feet as your main focus, then climb for a bit thinking consciously about good body position while your body is still partly in "silent feet" mode, then go back to thinking consciously about silent feet while your body is still partly in "good body position" mode, then think about quick, smooth movement for a bit while your body is still partly in "silent feet" mode etc
I tend to do this while rainbowing around on a quiet bit of wall, so I've got more control over the rhythm of what I'm doing than if I'm either on a route or a series of boulder problems...
I wouldn't focus on climbing all the time with silent feet if you're still learning how to position your body efficiently. However, as your technique and precision improves you should find that you're automatically climbing with 'quiet feet' all the time eventually.
Precision is one major part of footwork, the other being knowing where to place your feet, which part of your foot to use and at what angle. Being supple in your hips and back will assist with getting your foot onto a hold quickly, precisely and to then be able to load it effectively.
> Silent feet is much easier with a strong core.
Yes, often overlooked. People who have a great degree of control do so because they can, accuracy and precision with feet originates in the core and practicing silent feet will train the core.
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