UKC

I have been eyeing this route for a while. Any one done this? I have heard the gear is thin. is there use for a tricam and a ski hook? is the crux protected with a bolt?

Thanks!

In reply to sip a cup: Crux is a rockover onto a high right foot on a tiny slightly sloping foothold with a small sidepull crimp for the right hand just above the foot hold.
I used a BD RP 3 in sideays, but it basically seemed to resist some big tugs and and then others come out. I have heard of people who have tested it unsuccesfully for real.
Can't remember if you clip the gear on windows after the crux or not. Think we just carried on up.
Good route

In reply to Ed Booth: Cheers Ed! Looks like a great route I take it the crux is three quater hight.

In reply to sip a cup:

I took a fall on the RP3 and it held!!!

I proceeded to rest on it as if it was a bolt until Sion my belayer reminded me that it was an RP3 which usually pulls through! I lowered down off it and then lead the route clean (not bad for a sport climber having not climbed any trad in nearly 20 years!)

No Tricam's as far as I remember, but did use skyhooks and a selection of rps / wires towards the top.

Here's a vid of Sion successfully leading it a few days later...

youtube.com/watch?v=e7ix-n-BZng&

Did meet someone at Geneva airport a few months later who'd had a bad fall on it resulting in what looked like a permanently disfigured foot. I vaguely remember Callum Muskett decking off it as well...so take care and enjoy.

In reply to Sl@te Head: thanks! undecided if it will go in one ground up. it mentions in the new slate guide a tricam could be helpfull. there must be a shot hole someware, sure to find it on route.

In reply to sip a cup: If you don't mind eliminates you could try 'Seam, Stress' E6 on the same slab as a warm up. It's very eliminate, it climbs the slab between the cracks of 'Seamstress' and 'Seams the Same'. It's technically easier than 'My Halo' but just as serious if not more so....

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=172626

Definitely a good small tricam on that, a black one.