UKC

I'm looking at upgrading to some shiny new leashless tools this year, exact model TBD. I don't quite trust myself not to drop them, so I was thinking some of those springy lanyards might be worth investing in as well.

Are there any particular ones which stand out?

A lot of them seem to be rated at 2KN or unrated. Are any of them strong enough to use as part of a belay?

In reply to davidbeynon:


NO. They are not for belaying or for resting on. They are simply there to stop your axes from falling down the route.

I'd get these ones:

http://www.blueice.com/products/en/home/29-boa-leash.html

The ones with accessory krabs are crap cause if you did slump on the krabs they'll just break (he says from experience). This way you just larksfoot them on to the bottom of the axe and bobs your uncle. The spinner ones, which are supposed to stop you from getting tangled up don't work.

In reply to davidbeynon: Ive used my grivel ones as part of a belay but wouldnt rely on them solely. They are brillant for leashless climbing without the drawback of leashless climbing. They can get tangled a little if yoy're not paying attention but its not a major incident that would make me not bother.

In reply to mattrm:
the BD spinner leashe does work, to an extent anyway. My axes never get that tangled and the few twists there are come out by pulling the lanyards tightish, my mates non spinner grivel ones are constantly getting very tangled and are more of a hassle to untangle too.

The boa lanyards you linked are also only rated to 2kn as are the grivel lanyards (and the bd spinners)

In reply to davidbeynon: Make some yourself from tubular tape with shock cord inside, with a couple of small crabs (eg camp nanos). Hay on here suggested a simple system to just connect the axes together - rather than to your harness. I've found this to be less faff than a spinner. There's always a debate about falling on to spring leashes, some say they've been saved by them, others point out the dangers of having a sprung-loaded axe embedding itself in your eye.

In reply to davidbeynon:

I've got the BD spinner leashes, no problems really in use and they have a little clip rather than a crab which is nice and easy to release even with gloves on.

Nath B

In reply to davidbeynon:

Thanks all. I think will go for something 2kn and try not to lean on it, or maybe make something.

Is it wrong that the first thing I thought of when I read the suggestion to just connect them together was "Axe Nunchuks!"

In reply to davidbeynon: I'd recommend the BD spinner leashers! I've fallen onto them after an axe ripped on a mixed climb this winter. The left axe was bomber and as the right axe ripped, I managed to let go of both axes. The leash caught the fall no problem. However, I could just be lucky and this may never happen again...

On the belay side of things, I've used them as part of the set up.

In reply to davidbeynon: The springer leashes definitly do work! I have the plain grivel, non-springer type and had lots more tanghles than my climbing partners who were using the BD springer leash. I've just purchased a grivel rotary Krab to improve the set up.