/ UKC Fit Club Week 345

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mbh - on 27 Oct 2013
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motiva UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or with tional tool for all.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=564587&v=1

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week's (344) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=566613&v=1

The week just gone was the week of Other Stuff:

AJM - got engaged. Other stuff, indeed! Had a really good go at Low Blow and now has Chulilla to look forward to.
biscuit - is falling, failing and running. Things looking up and indoors is the place to be, but don't anyone tell grubes that he said that, please.
Eagle River - was lurgified, despite my ban on lurgy. Very naughty. Must do better.
needkraken - is crazy busy with rehearsals and other stuff but still manages two sessions. Well done you.
Nick Russell - typically talks down yet another achievement - a 7b RP - super stuff.
mbh - not such a great week, but still got some running in.Thanks ppg, Thickhead and The Fox for helpful suggestions.
Si dH - fighting hard on those E2s and E3s. Good effort.
Thickhead - still keeping up the pace almost every day, and a good 5k time.
kevster - did actually make it to the wall, so at least one mark for intent. What is the 18 hour rule? And, er, how does 20 ft swell with 18s period expected today around these parts sound to you?
Joughton - 3 walls in a week and gets his priorities right. I keep thinking of that line from Saladin's No2 in the Kingdom of Heaven. - applies to you, I think.
Luke Owens - is off to Font and training like a demon.
Mark Torrance - keeping up 50 mpw. Why do they all want a drink after 5k, I wonder?
JimmyKay - 19:05 is getting very close to 18:50. Go for it, Jimmy and watch out for Luke at font.
IainRUK - great to hear that the pain has gone and you have felt able to get back to normal (that is, your normal) Jasmund sound's nice.
grubes - that was a good go at ticking last week's goals. Shame about the clag, but you tried.
pork pie girl - still learning, finds BB to her taste, and Baboo Baboo too, which will surely yield to these efforts before long. That's quite a story for the week, although I lost the plot when Aunt Mary appeared.
Sankey - another one with other stuff going on., but stil gets in one session after work, including a flash.
Nomics4sale - flashes a 7a. I didn't think they were easy? Twice inside, once outside and the FRA relays too. Good going.
Tru - really focussed on Rubicon. Big gains on the beast.
Exile - a meatloaf line of a year for you, so far, which you may yet spoil. Which project will you go for?
maria85 - of to the Fit Club infirmary with you, and please pick up Eagle River on the way from the Fit Club Naughty Corner. Say it was a clerical error, or something. Won't happen again.
Dandan82 - Hi, come on in. Good luck with the 8a goal.
annak - good news about the foot. Our memory of pain is very short, is it not?
Garrouli - 3 sessions despite the blues, and plenty of goals to provide focus. Sounds good.
Ally Smith - Gets stat of the week award - 23 ticks from 7a to 8a+ on your trip. Check out Red River Gorge, everyone.
mattrm - DIY still to the fore, impressively to those who get bored after a couple of brush strokes. A 10 k looms.
Ali - working late, running into work, at the wall and orienteering the long route. Pretty good.
stevemarkperry - 3 sessions, but niggly shoulder won't pipe down.
Jimbo W - Hi - sounds familiar - a few replies for you that seem very sensible. Hope they help, and good luck.
mrchewy - So long, don't let work drive you under, and come back when you can.

I think that's everyone....hopefully.

Amongst the notable achievements, lots of other stuff going on this week, as we find that life changing decisions, homework, work, job interviews and family all take their slice of our time and energy. If you are in that place, then hopefully it helps to see that others are too, who maybe get round or think about these pressures in ways that could work for you.

Could I pass this on now to others, until the new year?
AJM - on 27 Oct 2013
In reply to mbh:

> Could I pass this on now to others, until the new year?

Ill get in early and grab a few weekends where I know I'm likely to be around. If anyone wants any of these off me then just shout - usually the problem is too few volunteers rather than too many, and having done a good stint of them in the past I'm not precious about giving them up to the keen and motivated...

3/11
10/11
17/11
24/11 - AJM
1/12
8/12 - AJM
15/12
22/12 - AJM
29/12 - AJM
5/1
mbh - on 27 Oct 2013
In reply to AJM:

Thanks AJM - put me down for the 5th January and on for the rest of January at least.
AJM - on 27 Oct 2013
In reply to AJM:

> 3/11
> 10/11
> 17/11
> 24/11 - AJM
> 1/12
> 8/12 - AJM
> 15/12
> 22/12 - AJM
> 29/12 - AJM
> 5/1 - mbh

grubes - on 27 Oct 2013
In reply to AJM:
> 3/11 - grubes
> 10/11 - grubes
> 17/11
> 24/11 - AJM
> 1/12 - grubes
> 8/12 - AJM
> 15/12
> 22/12 - AJM
> 29/12 - AJM
> 5/1

IainRUK - on 27 Oct 2013
In reply to grubes:
In reply to AJM:
> 3/11 - grubes
> 10/11 - grubes
> 17/11 - iainruk (a late one as will be in the US..)
> 24/11 - AJM
> 1/12 - grubes
> 8/12 - AJM
> 15/12 - iainruk
> 22/12 - AJM
> 29/12 - AJM
> 5/1
mbh - on 27 Oct 2013
In reply to IainRUK:
> 3/11 - grubes
> 10/11 - grubes
> 17/11 - iainruk (a late one as will be in the US..)
> 24/11 - AJM
> 1/12 - grubes
> 8/12 - AJM
> 15/12 - iainruk
> 22/12 - AJM
> 29/12 - AJM
> 5/1 - mbh

that's it, sorted. Thanks!
AJM - on 27 Oct 2013
In reply to IainRUK:

> 3/11 - grubes
> 10/11 - grubes
> 17/11 - iainruk (a late one as will be in the US..)
> 24/11 - AJM
> 1/12 - grubes
> 8/12 - AJM
> 15/12 - iainruk
> 22/12 - AJM
> 29/12 - AJM
> 5/1 - mbh

That was quick! If anyone feels left out then just reply to this and replace my name with yours on some of them, doesn't bother me.
AJM - on 27 Oct 2013
In reply to mbh:

M: Nothing, I don't think
T: Short fingerboard session. Upped the weight to +13kg half crimping on the rails at 3x 10secs
W: Drove to Huntsham. Project wet. Figured I'd come back tomorrow. 2x ass-plants on the way back down the path (mudslide)
T: Drove to Huntsham. No improvement in rock conditions. Stayed on my feet this time so an improvement of sorts.
F: Trym with Helen. Chucked a toprope down Write Off, an E5/6. Worked out a sequence and linked it on toprope. Wasn't really psyched enough by the route to overcome my dislike of being totally reliant on one piece of gear so didnt lead it. Totally a head thing - I know I could do it, the one piece is good, but the other piece you can get in to back it up is totally blind to fiddle in and even when its in you can't guarantee its sat right (about 1/3 it sat perfectly, and you couldnt tell by tugging on it) and you can never actually check. If I'd been mega psyched for the route I'd have just got over it but I just wasn't. 7a/+ I guess? Quite crimpy, quite precise, but whilst it was quite sustainedly tricky it never felt draining.
S: Nothing
S: TCA. Did some problems and circuits to warm up and got on the Mothership. Did a 6C (felt quite soft, but in line with the grades of other stuff around it, for what that's worth), a 6C+ (tricky to stick heel) and another 6C+ (felt pretty tough, pleased to get it) amidst a bunch of easier stuff. Felt like I was climbing reasonably strong.

The sessions I did weren't too bad (relatively pleased with performance today), but various disappointments kept the actual rock time low (could have been out Wed/Tur/Sat if things had panned out slightly differently) and my psyche on the one day I was out wasn't there enough to go grade-whoring and pick up the "E6" tick (the grade I think assumes the only gear is the blind placement, which I don't quite understand given the better placement is also more obvious. Caileans comments suggest maybe E5.)

Since Low Blow is going to take a while to dry out I'm thinking I might investigate shunting some of the physically hard trad at Avon (and getting to Brean which is also quick drying) in the meantime with the intention of perhaps getting some head points in - maybe Pink Ginsane (E6/7b+) and Bold as Love (E6/7c) or something like that. Should be hard enough to count as good training!
Mark Torrance on 27 Oct 2013
In reply to mbh:

Thanks everyone who's just volunteered. A valuable service.

Square brackets are rolling 7 day totals. "Road" often includes tarmac-in-park / hardpacked path by the Trent / canal towpaths. So not quite as tedious as it sounds.

M: [55.8] 12.7 miles road with hillyish 8 at 7:20
T: [55.8] 6 miles road am 4.9 road pm
W: [55.8] 4.1 miles road am
T: [55.7] 12.2 miles road and paths - sunny, autumnal, steady, good company.
F: [50.4] -
S: [50.4] 10.5 miles road with 2x4mins, 4x2mins, 8x1mins, then some shorter sprints. average 5:59 min/mile (excluding final sprints)
S: [56.6] 6.2 miles road and path, gentle

At least half of this weeks running was with other people, which was nice.
IainRUK - on 27 Oct 2013
In reply to mbh:

m: 14 miles steady
t: am: 7 miles pm: 8 miles.
w; am: 7 miles. pm: 5 miles 6:15pace
t: 14 miles steady
f: 9 miles steady
s: am: 5 miles steady. pm: regional XC champs 4th won age group, 2.8 mile warm up. 4.5 mile race, mile cool down
s; 10 miles steady

Seem to be over the hip issues, the race was just a final tester, have done 4 15 milers in the past few weeks so 1 month til the 50 miler need regular long runs now but should be OK...
Sankey - on 27 Oct 2013
In reply to mbh: easy week to report: did nothing! Had a cold during week, opted to take it easy rather than push through, then a weekend in Norfolk. Anyway, no excuses to not get on with it this week, so if I report another slack week I need to be berated!
Eagle River - on 27 Oct 2013
In reply to mbh:

Thanks for marshaling the fit club for the last few months.

Mon: indoor routes
Wed: indoor routes
Sat: indoor routes

Yep, the week was as exciting as that sounds. Still feeling the after effects of illness on monday and probably a bit wednesday. I figure it's stamina that usually holds me back on a route so we've been doing doubles mostly, 2 routes back to back around 7a-7b. Problem is we're getting most of the routes that are suitable for that completely dialed at the wall so they're getting easier. The current set of hard routes have stopper cruxes quite low down so aren't really any good for this type of training. There should be a reset soon though.

Biblical rainfall for the coming week doesn't bode well for making my winter return to Malham next weekend but will keep an eye on the forecast.
mattrm - on 27 Oct 2013
In reply to AJM:

Thanks for getting back to me earlier. Was out on a nav course and suddenly remembered, part way up the hill, hence the panicked text.
biscuit - on 27 Oct 2013
In reply to mbh:

Cheers mbh.

Winter training this week I.e. indoors. Mon, sat and sun. Hopeful trip to almscliff with grubes got cancelled due to the weather today :-(

As per eagle river mon and sat but lower grades.

Today went to leeds wall. Couldn't resist the comp wall. STEEP ! tired from yesterday too so nothing over 6c completed. Just general climbing not training as such. Ended up only being able to do 6a+. Totally empty.

Next week and a couple after are going to be complicated with family stuff so may not have much to report but will try and get to the wall 1ce a week to maintain what I have hopefully gained in the last couple if weeks.
AJM - on 27 Oct 2013
In reply to mattrm:

No worries!
Nick Russell on 27 Oct 2013
In reply to mbh:
> Nick Russell - typically talks down yet another achievement - a 7b RP - super stuff.

Thanks, it certainly made my week! While I maintain that there is an element of improving rapidly because of shifting my focus (playing it down), I do recognise that I'm climbing harder stuff than I have before. That's got to feed back into more improvement.

M - am swimming (3.3km), pm yoga
T - TCA. Tried working on the circuits but I find that none of them are great for me to train endurance on. The easy ones hurt my skin and the hard ones are too hard for me to even complete (without some practice anyway), never mind lap. Still, I think I got something out of it
W - Climbing at Cheddar. A lot of stuff was wet, so decided to do something easier and more adventurous, Stone Cold Fever: 4 pitch bolted route (6a+,6b+,6b,6a). Good climbing, but a couple of scrambly sections up grassy ledges detract so not 3* in my opinion.
On the way back, onsighted Raw Deal (7a) on the Wave! It's only 4 bolts, 9m of climbing, but has a few fun big moves. Concensus is soft for the grade, but the book says 7a so I'll take it.
T - Core (now including squats)
F - Nothing. (I vaguely intended to swim at lunch time again, but got distracted by actually doing work.)
S - North Wales. Walk/scramble up Tryfan and the Glyders. Good to get out in the mountains again, even if a bit wet.
S - Fingerboard. Front 3, and some encores on easy holds. I've been feeling pretty weak locking off on the right arm due to a nasty injury 18 months ago. Decided to try to strengthen that.

So, a pretty good week: got the 7a onsight (hopefully more of these to come!), got out in the hills, did some decent training, only one lazy day (and I can excuse that as work. No really, us PhD students actually do that sometimes...)


Short term goals (end of October)
Sort out joining a masters swimming club. Going along to a session on Wednesday to see if I like it.
Plan some kind of structured winter training. Get a few partners on board with that. Still in skeleton form. Will flesh it out this week
Afternoon/weekend trips to Cheddar whenever the weather allows (make the most of still having my parents' car). Soon to be my car, so less urgency but still a good aim!

Medium term goals (end of 2013)
Sport: 7a flash. tick Onsight Raw Deal
Sport: 7b+ redpoint. Decided filling in one of these pyramids is a good idea. So far 5/8@7a, 2/4@7a+, 1/2@7b, 0/1@7b+
Trad: I'll set a very modest goal of 2xE3(+), just to ensure that I actually do some!
Incidental: get a car. Mostly sorted out the paperwork!
Nick Russell on 27 Oct 2013
In reply to AJM:
> (and getting to Brean which is also quick drying)

Let me know if you need a partner for Brean. Do you know if the tide is much of a problem there?
AJM - on 27 Oct 2013
In reply to Nick Russell:

Tuesday or Wednesday?

The sport climbing isn't tidal. Access across the beach isn't possible at high tide. You can still get in/out by going up and over the headland though, although its a bit of a slog and is easier to go up than it is to find and go down.
Ali - on 27 Oct 2013
In reply to mbh: Cheers mbh!

Not a bad week this week, though I think I am most proud of retaining my domestic goddess crown by creating a not-so-shabby-for-a-first-attempt fire engine cake - this impressed the colleague I'd made it for, but not the rest of the team as he refused to let them eat any of it. Needless to say, this led to (another) cake heavy week, though as this seems to be giving me record runs into work and getting up 7as, perhaps I should make it part of my nutrition strategy?!

Anyway onto the important stuff...

M - nothing
T - buttercream fueled run into work - sadly my watch finally decided to die 6 months after I ran it through the washing machine so couldn't time myself but it felt GOOD! So sub-50min I reckon
W - Biscuit Factory - feeling pretty knackered after a couple of nights cake-related sleep deprivation, but managed to get a few outstanding reds and greens ticked.
T - nothing
F - nothing
S - day trip to Brean, along with a lot of other people. Made the mistake of trying to warm up on Kraken (6b+) and failed dismally, getting pumped in the process. Then onsighted Chepito (7a), did Pearl Harbour (7a) first go (had tried it a couple of years ago) and onsighted Bikini Atoll (6c+). Had a go on The Roof of Inequity (7a+) but ended up grabbing draw first go (my wrist felt iffy on the clipping hold) and then failing to commit to the throw above the roof. Went up again but ran out of power to do the crux. Managed it after a rest so should hopefully get it next time when fresh and strong.
S - BMF - felt knackered and under-fed. Lots of hill reps.

Hoping the underground's running as otherwise I'm running all the way to work tomorrow and my legs feel tired!
Nick Russell on 27 Oct 2013
In reply to AJM:
> (In reply to Nick Russell)
> Tuesday or Wednesday?

Wednesday is better for me, but I could arrange Tuesday if there's some compelling reason. Does a long ab rope help with the descent? I have a 100m...
pork pie girl - on 27 Oct 2013
In reply to mbh: cheers bb.

Last few days..

Sunday.. Some cardio in gym (can't remember..but 5 mins of cycling probably) mid day bouldering before or after cardio. Tea time bouldering 4Cust for forty mins

Monday.. Intervals on bike, core and weights after work

Tuesday.. Lunch time ,lots of circuits of roughly three mins on until very pumped, endeavour and a half mins training abs and lower back.. Repeated over three very different circuits for about and hour and a,quarter . Pm intervals on bike

Wed...rest

Thursday.. Worked on power at bouldering wall..two hour session. Intervals on bike for 45mins. Late afternoon run up ingleborough ..walk back down

Friday.. Routes at wall all day. Nowt special and way off where I want.. Best effort dogged a 7a+ .. Still,not in indoor routes mode and certainly wasn't trying hard enough. Good thing about the session was lots of falling practise. Pm cross trainer in gym

Saturday.. Hill day in dales.. Ingleborough and whernside.pm weights and core in garage

Sunday..today. 4x4s for about an hour and a half. Intervals on bike.
pork pie girl - on 27 Oct 2013
In reply to pork pie girl: ps does anyone else climb like a sack of shit indoors is it just me?
mbh - on 27 Oct 2013
In reply to Ali:

So the fire engine cake was not for an actual child?

Another poor week for me, with another 4 day stretch of nothing.

M-W - nothing (a technique I have learned from Si dH for a run of do-nothing days: report them as one, in one line. It doesn't look so bad.
T - Would be with M-W, but this was my birthday! I got a special Happy Birthday email from the Free Syrian Army, whose site seems to have been hacked by the FRA. Solid lecturing all day. No energy for running.
F am 5 miles, pm 5 miles, same route, both on road.
S - am 8.6 miles in the dark, 1.8 km swimming, pm 6.6 miles.
S - 17.1 miles, flattish.

About 10 fast sub 7:30-ish miles in there, but no more. I meant to go for another short run this evening, to help make up for the poor mid-week, but it is dark, raining and brewing up a storm, so I am dipping on that.

So, taking the positives, that is 42 miles running, about 900 m ascent and 1.8 km swimming. This week I broke the 2000 miles barrier for 2013, and broke 50 km ascent for the last year.

I can get some trail shoes now (he says, clutching his birthday money). The shop across the road has some Wave Ascents. Are they as good as Wave Harriers or Salomon Speedcross 3 things, neither of which I can so easily try on before buying, does anyone know? I would mainly use them for running on the coast path.
Nick Russell on 27 Oct 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:
> does anyone else climb like a sack of shit indoors...?

I certainly climb better outdoors. I genuinely consider it an achievement when I get up a 6b+ in UCR. I normally have one per session in me, but after that it just falls apart. My clipping goes to pot... fumbling, dropping the rope... just stopping, gripped, unable to take either hand off for long enough to clip the rope until I fall off (or downclimb)... I used to think I had a real problem with clipping, until I realised it didn't seem to affect me outdoors at all.

Anyway, yeah, I lead pretty badly indoors. That's one of the reasons I prefer to go bouldering if I can't get outside
AJM - on 27 Oct 2013
In reply to Nick Russell:

Tuesday looks sunnier but otherwise no reason. Rope wouldn't help I don't think, and anyway the high tide is mid afafternoon so should be possible to get in before and out after the high.
pork pie girl - on 27 Oct 2013
In reply to Nick Russell: I have an issue with clipping when things are at my limit.. Hence clip dropping at the wall on friday.. With shed loads more of it needed each time i'm at the wall. I like bouldering indoors but know I need to lead loads,more than I ever have done over the winter.. I'm hoping I may just feel much happier with my efforts in a few more,weeks if I force myself to do stuff I don't want to do

A massive factor for me at the wall where I climb the most is an apparent lack if shared enthusiasm and motivation for lead climbing.. When others are well up for it and excited about trying hard it really helps. I think trying different walls this winter is going to have to be on the agenda.. :-)
pork pie girl - on 27 Oct 2013
In reply to mbh: have you sorted out your following thru on runs and cramps in legs now?
Eagle River - on 27 Oct 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

It's a completely different style, at Malham you'll be climbing carefully with precise footwork and about 4 foot moves or every hand move. Indoors tends to be much more dynamic and rewards speed over technique.

Takes a good few sessions to be comfortable again, I'm feeling back in the swing of it now about 6 sessions in!
pork pie girl - on 27 Oct 2013
In reply to Eagle River: cheers .. I'm sulking.. Will stop soon and get into grrr mode!
ads.ukclimbing.com
mbh - on 27 Oct 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

Nothing like as bad as last week, and the runs are better too, so to speak. Given a history of heart disease and high blood pressure in the male side of my family ( if I was my Dad I'd have had a stroke 3 years ago and be dead in 5) I have zealously cut salt out of my diet, and perhaps that makes me vulnerable to cramps. I don't know.
grubes - on 28 Oct 2013
In reply to mbh:
> grubes - that was a good go at ticking last week's goals. Shame about the clag, but you tried.
cheer mbh

STG (End of 2013):
Lead E2 try onsight
Boulder 6C/V5 UK
Adventerous climbing on the isle of man in october - Sort of but not really
MTG (April 2014):
Winter Grit - 7A boulder
Winter Grit - snowballing
Winter Grit - Big air
Font - Climb a load of 6's and try get a 7.
Font alternate plan - eat a load of pastries from different pattisserie's
plan a trip to kalymnos for first week in april
Kalymnos - 4x7's in a week.
kalymnos - at least two ticks a day
LTG (July 2014):
Plan two week UK/irish tour visiting - Pembroke, North wales, Ireland, fairhead and isle of man

This week's goals:
Lead something - Tick at a wall though :/
Wall a couple of times - tick

M: Migraine - Bed
T: Migraine - Still bed
W: Migraine - Bed/sofa
T: Rest
F: Rest - got good news
S: Depot. 2.5 hours. Hard session. Felt beasted at the end could not even muster the strength to do a warm up.
S: Leeds wurl. 5 hours. Warmed up bouldering for 40 mins. Lead 6a, 6b, tried 7a+ then finished up a 6a+, Dogged a 6b+ 2 times. Cafe break. Lead 6a+, dogged 6a+/6b, lead 5+/6a

Next week Goals:
.. climb I guess

Lack luster week really
useful on 28 Oct 2013
In reply to mbh: Hi all,
I realise I've been getting behind on Fit club.
Here's a quick catch up. I hope to get back on top of everything now that I'm a bit more settled in the new house.

Last week: Tu: Managed a session at the new Boardroom on Deeside - which is hard, but brilliant!
--
This week, my daughter was on Half Term. We still managed some good stuff though:

Tu: Climbing at the Beacon. Mainly bouldering (managed a V2 - yay!), but also teaching her to belay (fixed to the ground with as many ballast bags as I could find!), which she thoroughly (and unexpectedly!) enjoyed.

Th: Scrambling Tryfan North Ridge via North Gully, down via West Gully. Perfect conditions for an eight year old's first time scramble.
--
GOals:
I think it's time to re-assess. I'll try to consolidate what my last goal post was!
stevemarkperry - on 28 Oct 2013
In reply to mbh:

Cheers buddy!

A steady week this week to rest up the niggly shoulder. I do not want this to become a problem in the future so taking a week out this week seemed like a good idea. I bouldered twice at the weekend and it is feeling ok so far (Monday).


Goals:

Maintain 142 lbs: ~141.5 lbs

STG:
Current Focus: Climb every problem at the Very Far Skyline Boulders (The Roaches). Aim: To improve my head on high-ish grit slabs and crack-lines and to improve my slab and crack technique.
The Undercut (Churnet, 6C+/7A)
Old Sloper Problem (Churnet, 7A)
Bonus Goal: Alternative 3 SS (Churnet, pretty high roof finish, 6C)

MTG (early 2014):
Lead any WI route in Rjukan
Improve winter experience
Get out to the Alps

VLTG (dreams):
Dream of White Horses
Cenotaph Corner
Cemetery Gates
Juvs°yla (WI6), Upper Gorge, Rjukan
Lipton Ice (WI6/7), Upper Gorge, Rjukan
Wheel of Life


This Week:

M: Resting shoulder
T: Resting shoulder
W: Resting shoulder
T: Resting shoulder
F: Resting shoulder
S: Bouldering at Awesome Walls. Working technique, core and obscure moves training // shoulder feeling ok
S: 8 mile walk with the misses // Bouldering at Awesome Walls. Working technique, core and obscure moves training // shoulder feeling ok
Nomics4sale - on 28 Oct 2013
In reply to mbh:

cheers mbh

STG: 7a or 7b in Spain next week
MTG: 7b or V6 indoors over winter
LTG: trad next Summer

Mon: BoulderUK, flash up to V4. Then 2 x intermediate beastmaker routine. Big mistake! Then core and back exercises.
Tues: 30 mins hill reps then 5 x 5 pull ups and lock offs.
Weds am: Whalley Nab 5 miles run, 200m ascent
Weds pm: Ingleton wall circuits and endurance training.
Thurs: Malham, knackered. Top roped FEE. Was hoping to RP it but it was hot and I was weak.
Fri: nowt
Sat: Great Whernside fell race, 4 mile, 400m ascent.
Sun: Leeds wall, tried 3 different 7as but didn't do any clean.

Knackered my finger doing the beastmaker routine on Monday. My already dodgy finger is now even more swollen and sore so I'll be taping up for the foreseeable. I should probably stop climbing and rest it but of course I bloody won't.

Massively looking forward to Spain on Saturday. Woop!

Nomics4sale - on 28 Oct 2013
In reply to Ali:

Good effort with the 7as Ali. Consolidating your grade jump from Kaly, looks like it's here to stay :o).
maria85 - on 28 Oct 2013
In reply to mbh:
Grubes/Biscuit - was at Leeds wall yesterday too, from 3ish - must have seen you? Did see someone who looked roughly like you Grubes, wondered if it was - yellow tshirt?? I was over near the auto belay mostly, green strappy top/bright pink hoody, partner had a red tshirt on.
Nomics - didn't see you so must have either been blind or you left earlier!

Another rubbish week, am still in the FC infirmary... just can't seem to shake whatever bug I've got, I'm not really ill just have very low energy and haven't been sleeping well :-( The training plan has had to be put to one side and I'm just doing whatever I feel up to each day, which is more often than not curling up on the sofa unfortunately. Niggly injuries that won't go away aren't helping either. On the positive side, I did have a good run and climb this week and am off to Morocco on Sat!


M: Bike commute
T: I might have gone for a run??
W: Bike commute. Climbing Barn, 4 x 10 mins on, 2 on overhangs.
T: Bike commute. Lunchtime hill reps 5 x 1min. Evening run (I'd had a bad day, needed to let off steam...) 45 mins, 140m elevation, maybe 7/8km or so?
F: Core session.

S: Peak District, wet but needed to get out of Leeds. After avoiding rain we wandered up to Stanage, I climbed a VDiff (it was a nice VDiff...) then my partner backed off a VS and we went to eat cake instead. I used to climb when it was cold, windy and showery (just like the hundreds of uni groups there), must have got soft in my old age but it wasn't much fun!

S: Leeds wall. Started off badly (although I think that was lingering grumpiness from fighting round Asda beforehand!); just climbed stuff as opposed to training. Did some easier stuff, a 6b first go, and then tried a couple of 6b+/c's. First one I got all the moves but on my 2nd go just couldn't make one of the clips, not sure if it was that I actually couldn't do it or I was just getting freaked out by it. Maybe one to go back to and either do or take the fall...
The second one was much better, did all the moves first go, 2nd go bottled it at a clip and rested, 3rd go I MTFU'd and did it - really chuffed at this. Didn't even feel that hard, it was more that I felt all hot, sweaty and flustered and keeping my head/breathing together than finding the climbing itself difficult. I even took some (small) falls. Feels like definite progress.

Plan for this week: rest as much as needed, though ideally aiming for 2 wall sessions and a run or two. Fly to Morocco Saturday - no real grade-based goals for the trip as I don't know what to expect from the area/grades/rock and don't want to be disappointed if I'm still feeling a bit weak and feeble! I'll be happy if I have a fun & relaxing holiday, do some classic long VS routes and eat plenty of tagine. Some harder ticks would be a bonus and I've a couple of routes in mind :-)
AJM - on 28 Oct 2013
In reply to maria85:

Have an ace time in Morocco! If you're really (un)lucky you might find some of the routes on your list are our FAs!

(to be honest though I doubt it...!)
Nomics4sale - on 28 Oct 2013
In reply to maria85:

We were both blind! I was there till 5ish, a group of 4 then 5 of us hanging out by the steep wall and monging in the cafe.

Gutted you are still suffering general lurgy type thing. Not sure what to suggest except maybe a duvet day guzzling vitamin pills??
grubes - on 28 Oct 2013
In reply to maria85:
Yup yellow t-shirt I left at about 3.30 ish as had jobs. Biscuit and Nomics stayed longer with Nic
maria85 - on 28 Oct 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale: Totally! I even wandered over that way at one point, must have been lost in my own little world. Give us a shout next time you're headed there.

Am eating oranges like, err, an orange-crazed person. Maybe vitamin tablets is a good plan, though I eat pretty healthily. I'm not sick enough to take time off work and hide under the duvet - I'm not really ill, just no energy and a bit sniffly/sore throat. Hopefully a week in the sun will sort me out! Enjoy Spain :-)
Nomics4sale - on 28 Oct 2013
In reply to maria85:

Ha I think I need glasses! I'm thinking of going to the depot a bit over winter so hopefully we can sort something out there. Maybe midweek evenings. I'll email.

Cheers re Spain, you too. Yeah a week in the sun will sort you out. You'll forget you were a bit sniffly as soon as you feel the sun on your back on your first route. Awesome.
grubes - on 28 Oct 2013
In reply to Ally Smith:
> (In reply to mbh)
> Found a project for the winter ;-)

Really? What is it?
Joker, Brad, something long on Business?
maria85 - on 28 Oct 2013
In reply to AJM: Where are your FAs? I'll keep an eye out for them!

Any amazing route recommendations? VS-E1 ish, not too thuggy (I'm not quite sure how to interpret the 'steep' symbol in the guide, whether that means crazy pumpy or just not a slab...)
Ally Smith on 28 Oct 2013
In reply to mbh: > Ally Smith - Gets stat of the week award

Aw, shucks, really? You'll make me blush. I felt like I could have done better, especially when comparing myself to the guys i was climbing with. I guess that's no bad thing; need to compare myself to people who do better to find room for improvement.

This week (and next) were already put aside as rest, hence;

M-F: Working and sleeping (>10hrs a night - fairly epic sleeping for me)
S: Chores and plantation bouldering. Took a while to find any grit mojo. Seemed to start getting it just as the sun went down and my skin ran out. Found a project for the winter ;-)
S: Fun and soggy lap of black at 'degla. Really need to learn to take doubles better. Always land on top of the feckers rather than the downslope.

All the resting has given me some added motivation and i've put together some rather optimistic ticklists and used some of my spare time to write some bloggage
http://allysmithblog.blogspot.co.uk/2013/10/catch-up-summer-2013-purple-patch.html
Ally Smith on 28 Oct 2013
In reply to grubes: Careless Torque :-) (Did Brad a few winters ago)
AJM - on 28 Oct 2013
In reply to maria85:

Anfantizar and samazar mainly. Battering ram on the fortress (the parallel valley to samazar whose name I forget), Tower of Babel on one of the eagle crags somewhere I think it was, a whole host of routes with Finnish themed names maybe on Lower Eagle, Give me your Hand and something about a didgeridoo on Ksar Rock, plus a load of other random stuff.

We didnt really repeat much established, although I do recall some VS on Ksar that was good - spacewalk or something maybe, started not far from the hard severe that probably gets some stars on the front face, desert somethingorother maybe? Of ours, Tower of Babel is a fun little summit tick, the jamming crack line on Ksar rock, the left of the two, has a good main pitch, battering ram has an awesome first pitch...
Joughton on 28 Oct 2013
In reply to mbh: cheers mbh, you've been a great statician(?)

Decent week for me, even managing to get out on the weekend!

Mon - routes at MCC. Warmed up then flashed a 7a and 7a+, then tried the new 7c. Was all going great until the penultimate clip, but the top section was just impossible, couldn't even do it in isolation after a long rest. Still, decent sesh.
Tue - rest
Wed - big core session. Warmed up by skipping (actually getting really into it!) then tried out a new core routine. Started with 1xpull up, 2xpress up, 5xsit up, 2x leg raises, then carry on up in those multiples without any rest between each exercise. Got up to 7xpullup, 14xpress up, 35xsit up, 14xleg raises. Really good way to get a good session done in half an hour.
Thurs - woke up not aching, bit disappointed I hadn't pushed it hard enough. Then at about lunch time the ache came and I couldn't breathe deeply without feeling it!
Fri - abs still sore!
Sat - raven tor, woo! When I arrived, the average grade over the four routes being climbed was 8c+, absolutely insane. Ryan Pasquil on Mutation, Mina on Evolution, Chris W-P on Hubble, really inspiring stuff. Felt like a teeny tiny fish in an abosutely massive pond, as the analogy would go. Anyway, I got on Body Machine and thought it was absolutely brilliant, loads better than the Prow. So new project! Got all the moves first go going bolt to bolt, then had an RP attempt. Made past the rockover but pumped out before the big rest, really hope I get back on it before its all completely soaked. Got it in three overlapping links from the bottom so should go pretty quick.
Sun - got the train to Bristol to visit my sister at uni for a few days.
grubes - on 28 Oct 2013
In reply to Ally Smith: Nice, did you manage the start then that right hand sloper looks and feels shit cant imagine it gets better when you actually try pull on it.
Tru - on 28 Oct 2013
In reply to mbh:

Monday: Rest
Tuesday: Climb Mk
Warm up
4x v2-v4 circuit
3x v4-v6 circuit
Wednesday:Rest
Thursday: Rest
Friday: Rest
Saturday: Trip up to Water-cum-Jolly
The river has burst its banks with ankle deep water right up to the foot of Rubicon. Holds were dry so spent a good few hours coming up with ways to get on the route without wet and muddy shoes.

Put the draws in and climbed the route with one rest, felt so much stronger and was sure the send was imminent. Second go up got passed the first crux resting on jug and the my chalk bag fell off into the puddle bellow, excellent.

Had a couple more attempts but did not send just got everything I own very muddy. Never mind you cant always get what you want. I'm off to Thailand in two weeks time so my first 7a will just have to be in Tonsai.

Thank you for the motivation so far.
mbh - on 28 Oct 2013
In reply to Tru:

Good try Tru - nice story.
Ali - on 28 Oct 2013
In reply to mbh:
> (In reply to Ali)
>
> So the fire engine cake was not for an actual child?

No - I have a significant lack of children to bake cakes for! It was for a fire brigade colleague who was retiring - I made it look like the LFB fire engines and everything :o)

PPG - failed on 6b indoors at the Westway, onsighted 7a (ok, not 'proper' 7a) outdoors a week later - go figure! But I know what you mean about motivation indoors - I struggle when doing routes often for same reasons.

Nomics - cheers, but I think Brean follows the Kalymnos grading system - I am fully expecting to get spanked on Portland 6bs next time I'm there. Think it has helped my confidence in terms of getting on stuff on lead though. Have a great time in Spain - go for those 7as! (and 7bs...)
mbh - on 28 Oct 2013
In reply to Ali:
> (In reply to mbh)
> [...]
>
> No - I have a significant lack of children to bake cakes for! It was for a fire brigade colleague who was retiring - I made it look like the LFB fire engines and everything :o)

How very nice of you! If I still had the power, I would award you the Good Egg of the Week goblet, cup type thing :)
AJM - on 28 Oct 2013
In reply to Ali:

> I think Brean follows the Kalymnos grading system

The two 7as aren't the hardest examples of the grade, certainly. The guidebook grades can be a bit all over the place, especially on the newer or less frequented routes (admittedly those two are neither, but hey). Tide rising next door is very good and far more representative of its grade, worth a look. I know several people (me included) who rate it over Chulilla despite the higher stars awarded to the latter.

AJM - on 28 Oct 2013
In reply to Ally Smith:

Whilst I remember, we are in N Wales this weekend. No idea on movements but will try and keep you in the loop.....
Ali - on 28 Oct 2013
In reply to mbh: why thank you! I am honoured <bows> ;o)
Ali - on 28 Oct 2013
In reply to AJM: They both looked good! Keen to get back there at some point and get on the harder stuff :o)
Ally Smith on 28 Oct 2013
In reply to AJM: Sounds good - I might be over in the Peak one day. Stay in touch.
Exile - on 28 Oct 2013
In reply to mbh:


And once more, thanks for doing fit club (yet) again.

This week:

Best efforts outdoors last year:
RP - 7a
HP - E5 6b
Boulder - V4
Onsigth E2/3,
Winter VI 6

Goals for this Yaar:
Boulder V7 - tick
RP - 7a+ - tick
HP - E6 - maybe!

Autumn: HP Blow Out, (E6,) or start winter climbing - whichever opportunity allows first.

This winter - VI 7

Training:

M: Rest - feeling a little snotty
T: pm - 1.5hr PE / E traverses at wall, good session putting together movves on a new traverse
W: am - 1hr 10 fell run, pm - 45min general weights
T: pm - 30min road run
F: pm - 40min continual traversing on '7a' traverse at bridge
S: Rest
S: 8/9(?) top rope reps on one of the E3s, (not sure which one,) on Red Wall, Trowbarrow.

Steady week - hope we get a warm dry morning this week to get out - we'll see!
Exile - on 28 Oct 2013
In reply to Eagle River:

I came up against this - I just used a couple of extra holds on the crux to bring the grade down slightly. (You obviously need a couple of convenient holds from another route though, which may or may not be an option.)
ads.ukclimbing.com
pork pie girl - on 28 Oct 2013
In reply to Exile: how's the weight training going? are you feeling any benefits?
annak on 28 Oct 2013
In reply to mbh: Cheers for doing fit club, mbh, you've done a grand job.

This week, just ticking along, trying to fit everything in.

M: bouldering at the Biscuit Factory, making headway on the blue circuit.
Tu: gym (squats and benchpress)
W: cycle 14 miles
Th: bouldering at BF, managed a green for the first time. cycled 18 miles.
F: cycle 14 miles
Sa: sport climbing at Portland - meant to be a bit more practice before we go to the Verdon Gorge in a fortnight, but got completely nailed by a series of routes that should have been straightforwards
Sa: sport climbing at Portland - did slightly better until I cricked my neck such that I couldn't look up properly, making belaying hard. But it started raining soon after so day was over really by then.

Overall, a bit rubbish, but it's a funny time of year between proper seasons, and I'm just trying to keep the motivation up overall. Making progress in the gym at least, dumbbell versions of all my upper body barbell exercises is really paying off.
Garrouli - on 29 Oct 2013
In reply to mbh: Thanks mbh!

M - Lurgy
T - Lurgy
W - TCA - Managed a few more greens and completed both 7a+ circuits on the less-steep board.
T - TCA again - Tried some more greens and did some problems on the mothership.
F - Nothing
S - Risked Huntsham - Went with the intention of doing some general bouldering rather than trying Low Blow. Not surprisingly, was a tad damp with the middle section of the sliced slug boulder soaking, though the start and golden bicep were dry. Went to Bivi Buttress, managed to repeat Under the stars (F6B+) and did Bivi Groove (F6B+) and something to the left of that. Also repeated Golden Bicep S/S (F6C) and then walked down to the bread pudding boulder and dried the crimp on Cream (F6C+) and Lick the Bowl (F6C) enough to do the majority of these problems, but didn't top out due to dampness.
S - A damp and windy 6 mile run.

Off to see the parents in Derbyshire this weekend so will hopefully get out in the peak, weather permitting. Anyone know if the Tor or similar has any chance of being dry?
AJM - on 29 Oct 2013
In reply to Garrouli:

What do you think of grades/difficulties for that pair on Bivi buttress? I thought both of them were nice problems, especially Under Stars, but found Bivi groove harder, I'm not sure if its actually harder or if I find it hard because its a power problem rather than a trickery problem.

For Cream/Lick the Bowl, it looks like you just go up from the porthole to gaston the bottom of the crack? I've seen a Lh crimp a bit out left chalked before, but I don't know if that's on the next problem over or on these two...?

Try the UkB conditions thread for the best info on the Tor. I don't know about the seepage but some of the routes, Tin Of and their neighbours, should stay dry in the rain as long as its not a strong southerly blowing it in. The climber might get a bit damp mind you, theyre not that steep, but it does mean if you time ascents between showers the rock might well stay dry.

I'm not sure yet, but depending on the weather Wednesday I might try for Huntsham on Thursday or Friday and see how its shaping up. Couple of more or less dry days forecast midweek, although the wind still won't have been blowing directly onto the sliced slug. Other boulders could be ok mind you.
AJM - on 29 Oct 2013
In reply to AJM:

> I'm not sure yet, but depending on the weather Wednesday I might try for Huntsham on Thursday or Friday and see how its shaping up.

Mind you, given that the M5 is closed at the moment and so I'm missing out on the opportunity to go shunting at Avon, I might end up doing that on Thursday instead, strike whilst the iron is hot (whilst I've convinced myself that shunting isn't the enormous faff I always remember it being;) and all that.

Where's a "raging" emoticon when you need one? Sunniest day of the week/month/remainder of the year!
Nick Russell on 29 Oct 2013
In reply to AJM:
> Where's a "raging" emoticon when you need one? Sunniest day of the week/month/remainder of the year!

Yeah, and I'm stuck in an all-day meeting :(
AJM - on 29 Oct 2013
In reply to Nick Russell:

What's your read on tomorrow's weather? Met office looks ok, but the BBC forecast I saw earlier looked less positive.
mattrm - on 29 Oct 2013
In reply to mbh:

Thanks for doing the stats again.

Big contrats to AJM on the engagement. Getting married is awesome. Best day of my life.

mrchewey - Hope to see you back soon matey.

STG - Climb 6b (or v3) @ wall, 11st 10lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st.

Weight - 12st

M - T - Rest / DIY
F - Core & fingerboarding
S - 7 miles 500m asc - Nav course
S - 5.65 miles 500m asc - Nav course

Grim weather out on the hills yesterday and on Saturday. Very busy with DIY during the week. Fitting new skirting board and doing some final filling of the middle room. Along with the standard chores around the house. Also built some add-ons for my workbench. The nav course was good, learnt lots of new tricks, mainly around compass use, something which I've never really been able to do properly. Good weather for it, i.e. it's easy to take a bearing in the sun when you can see it all, but learning what to do in driving rain with 30 MPH winds is a bit harder.

Hopefully on the DIY front, we've only got a few more months to do. Also the wife is now back to doing her fair share of DIY, so things are moving onwards a bit quicker now.

Goals for next week:
1 climb
1 run
3 core sessions
1 fingerboard
AJM - on 29 Oct 2013
In reply to mattrm:

Cheers Matt :)
Garrouli - on 29 Oct 2013
In reply to AJM: I agree that Bivi groove is definitely harder than under the stars. Took me about seven goes to nail the move to the good hold. The rest of the problems on there are nails though - I tried Peckitt roof but could hardly get my ass of the floor!

What's up with the M5? Would love to get out to Huntsham on Thursday but I'm busy with work that day. Should be able to do one day next week though.

Hoping it's going to be dry in the peak this weekend, though looking at the forecast now, that might not be the case!
Garrouli - on 29 Oct 2013
In reply to AJM: Are you guys heading to Brean tomorrow? Might be potentially interested though it depends how quickly I can get my work finished in the morning.
Nick Russell on 29 Oct 2013
In reply to AJM:
> (In reply to Nick Russell)
>
> What's your read on tomorrow's weather?

It looks like the morning will be fine. Looking at the rainfall radar, there's a band (not just showers) coming in some time in the afternoon. Estimates of when seem to vary, but it looks like we'd have until 2 or 3, hopefully later.
Exile - on 29 Oct 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

Yes I think so! I'm doing three sets of 20 reps with light weights, (almost a recovery session,) and concentrating on pushing exercises and core with the idea that this will complement climbing. Already seems to have sorted out an elbow niggle and doesn't seem to interfere with climbing training, so I'll keep it up.
AJM - on 29 Oct 2013
In reply to Garrouli:

Serious accident apparently. They'd closed 13-14 and were routing southbound traffic (that hadn't yet passed 11A) via Swindon!

Yeah everything else on that buttress is nails. Just looking at the lip holds on Between the Lines and Hunters Roof makes me want to weep. Next week would be good, either for Low Blow or more generic bouldering (quite fancy Alex's roof and some of the stuff on the block boulders too, Lick the Bowl and the eye sockets and stuff).
AJM - on 29 Oct 2013
In reply to Nick Russell:

Hmm. met Office still saying alls well. Yr.no has it ok until 6. Bbc ok until 2.

My only worry is that at worst case 10-2 is only 4 hours for (for me) 2.5-3 hours in the car. And with high tide at 330 there's a risk of having to walk out up the hill in the rain if the band arrives at the wrong time.

But on the other hand, I'm on redpoint, so I could get the route knocked off by midday if it goes well, in which case I won't be as fussed. And I could arrive earlier I suppose if you can?

Decisions, decisions...



Nick Russell on 29 Oct 2013
In reply to AJM:

Are you sure about the met office forecast? I'm seeing rain at 3. I'd be ok to get there earlier, 09:30 would be easy. I'm happy to go for it, but we could check the forecast early tomorrow and make the call then.
AJM - on 29 Oct 2013
In reply to Nick Russell:

Nope, you're entirely right! Not sure where I got that from then...

Let's check first thing tomorrow then, we could always have Avon as a backup if it doesn't look good (less drive, so could be there earlier and its less of a journey to waste if it is wet), either for some more normal climbing or some sport-esque messing round on things that are way too hard for us.
Nick Russell on 29 Oct 2013
In reply to AJM:

Sounds like a plan, I'll be in touch in the morning. (I'm also happy to drive up to Huntsham, but reports on here seem to be that it's probably going to be mingin)
Kevster - on 30 Oct 2013
In reply to mbh:

Cheers all,

I'm going to have a break from FC, nothing against FC, just not climbing at the moment (mostly work) and posting when not doing anything isn't joyous. I think this is the fourth week I haven't managed to climb indoors, weekends are booked/working and the weather is getting hit and miss. I'll still check the posts out and maybe drop in, hopefully the balance will swing and I'll get back to getting it on.
I still have a brand new BM fingerboard, mounted in my mates place waiting for chalk. Maybe a new years resolution, though I hope to be back by then.
I still intend to get 7c outside through winter and OS E4 next year more than once.

Thanks for the support, and keep crushing until!...

pork pie girl - on 30 Oct 2013
In reply to Exile: good :-) I was looking At eva lopez's blog the other day (before we found out she red pointed an 8c or was it 8c+?.. Anyway she really promotes weight training.. Particularly for women climbers.. As we don't have as much natural muscle mass on our upper bodies, so not to get bigger but to help fire up muscle groups
JimmyKay - on 01 Nov 2013
In reply to mbh:

just on the ferry home. Should get home around 3ish which will mean i can parkrun at 9am! Psyched. Aiming for a sub19 tomorrow. Hopefully not too tired.

last week,

m-indoor session
t-last indoor session before font
w-went for a Greek.
t-track session. Felt good, burned everyone off (was the only person who hadn't run a half marathon on Sunday)
f-football for 2hours. Trashed me.
s-tried to park run but legs were broken from football. Got the 4pm ferry to font.
s-still broken from football. Repeated a few classics but failed on biceps moi. JimB crushed it 3rd go.

think football on Friday was a bad idea. Being shit in the race put me in a bad mood for the start of the week. Cheered up today though despite being rained off the last day. Update on Sunday.

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