UKC

Hi, I'm looking for some help with buying some new rock shoes.
I currently use, and have used for a while, Anasazi VCS and I really like them because they're great for smearing and good all-rounders.

I'm going to get my last couple of pairs of these shoes resoled and whilst they're being done I want to try out something a bit different. I'm looking at shoe that, whilst being able to handle smearing (as I climb mostly on grit), is a bit better at edging than the anasazi and also has a better heel-fit (I realise this is a bit subjective). I'm more interested in performance than price.

So far I've been looking at the la sportiva katanas and miuras, having heard good things about them. From the reviews I've read the katanas are better all-rounds but aren't top performers. The miuras seem a bit more aggressive, which is unnecessary for me as I don't do loads of overhanging stuff, and as a result have better edging but worse smearing potential.

For background, I climb about e3 and v5/6.

Any advice?

Thanks.

In reply to theomoore:

could try anasazi verdes. Bit more edgy, with more controlled fit of laces?

In reply to theomoore:

Once broken in, miuras don't really have much if any downturn and most wearers, if they suit, find them the most comfortable shoes they own.

In reply to theomoore: I've found the katana to equally at home on polished smears, tiny edges and steeper ground. The heel is super tight, when new, but doesn't bag out too much with use.

Personally I prefer the Velcro version. It is slightly less aggressive then the lace up.

Hope this helps.

In reply to neuromancer:


Few people i know that wear them have said this as well, the Miuras lose their downturn pretty quickly.
Might be worth trying:
Tenyayas, Evolv geshidos or the Andrea Bolidini apache light. All seem a nice fit and have good edges and can smear after being broken in, guess it depends on your foot shape.

In reply to theomoore: You probably won't be any better off edging in katanas than you are in Anasazi VCS, the lace miuras aren't downturned to begin with anyway and are a better all round shoe than the VCS version which are too stiff to be really good at smearing.

In reply to theomoore: You've just got to try them on I think. I am looking for exactly the same thing as yourself at the moment, though climb nowhere near as hard, and am currently on my second pair of Anasazi VCS. I was tempted by the 5:10 Stonelands VCS or Galileo VCS but neither fitted me that well. At a demo night I climbed in every shoe in the Sportiva range and I might as well have had flipflops on - my feet are way too wide and high volume for them. Scarpa's my next hope...

In reply to theomoore: Thanks for all the replies. I'm going to try some on tonight and if find out anything that might be of use to other people I'll let you know.

In reply to theomoore: I'd wait for the new Pinks!!